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Two-button, notch-lapel dinner jacket with vest = Attolini style

Montesquieu

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A few months back, I ordered a MTM tuxedo from Attolini via a Milan retailer. I specified every component of the outfit: midnight blue, single-breasted, single-button, peak lapel, with vest.

To my surprise, the jacket arrived with notch lapels and two buttons. The salesman explained that he had personally visited Attolini in Naples, spent considerable time consulting their input on the classic Napolitan dinner jacket style, and faxed to me a month before diagrams of the alterations to my order. [The fax never got to me. I never confirmed the order changes.] Attolini had advised that the vest necessitates changes to the jacket for proper balance, and that classic Napolitan dinner jacket style pairs the notch and two-buttons with a vest.

It took me 10 minutes to overcome the shock that 1) an expensive custom order had been altered without my approval and 2) my new formal wear violated tradition. I've read countless admonitions on Style Forum and BlackTieGuide.com about the sin of notch tuxedo lapels. The retailer offered to let me send everything back for replacement.

But then I looked at the outfit, saw it was beautiful, and trusted in Attolini. It was stunning. I objectively liked it better than the classic style I had requested. I further reasoned that peak lapels don't look good on me with suits and jackets, so why should they with a dinner jacket? The Attolini composition worked, much to my surprise and pleasure.

I don't know how others would react to an order being overriden like this. I also don't know how you feel about violating traditional black tie. Neither sat well with me until I dispassionately considered the end result. It bested the accumulated wisdom of the internet. I'm happier with this result.

I'm not sure if I have a point. It's just a story to judge as you will.
 

Hans

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I'm intrigued. Could you post a picture?
 

grimslade

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I'm going to go ahead and speculate that a.) they blew the order and b.) spun you a tale out of whole cloth, so to speak, to justify the mistake.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by grimslade
I'm going to go ahead and speculate that a.) they blew the order and b.) spun you a tale out of whole cloth, so to speak, to justify the mistake.

Definitely a + b. I would be infuriated at M's experience and would not have accepted the outcome with his equanimity.

That being said, if you are happy with it M., there's no reason to worry about the notch lapels. Dinner jackets often had notched lapels back in the day, even if the configuration is pejorative now because of its modern association with RTW mass production and rentals. It doesn't "violate tradition" unless you are selective in what that means.

The two button close, however...that truly puzzles me.

- B
 

jamesbond

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Wow! I'd be pissed. Esspecially if i dropped the kinda dough a mtm Attolini tux costs. I'd be very suprised if notch lapel is traditional neapolitan style. I have rarely seen any Europeans wear notch lapel tux's at all. I agree, i think they screwed up your order and concocted some horse shit of a excuse to make you feel good about it. Return it!
 

Holdfast

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Definitely a + b. I would be infuriated at M's experience and would not have accepted the outcome with his equanimity.

That being said, if you are happy with it M., there's no reason to worry.


+1 on both these counts. FWIW, I would not have accepted the jacket, personally.
 

Holdfast

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Yes, the appropriate outcome would be what I experienced.

Yes, that is the ideal outcome. I'm impressed.

But at the very least, there should not be a BS made-up story to "justify" a mistake. And the mistake should be rectified at their cost.

Obviously, I can't KNOW that the salesperson's story in the OP's case was just a cock & bull story... but if I was a betting man, I know where my money would be.
 

Daneel

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As long as you are happy with the result, all is well. Having said that, I might well not return to a tailor if that happened.
 

Lel

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Honestly, at that point, what difference is there between a tuxedo and a suit? If I were go wear something 2 button with notch lapels, I might as well wear a black suit and a tie.
 

grimslade

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Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

IGents, you will make your fellow offisah return that travah mockah sham of a black tie.


I suppose a true gentleman like yourself simply accepts it when a tailor delivers an article made to order but ignores the clients specific requests? I think not, dipshit. Whatever the merits of a two-button notch lapel tux, the relevant point is, it isn't what he ordered. There's no reason he should accept their cock-and-bull story about why they screwed up.
 

Jferg4350

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Originally Posted by Lel
Honestly, at that point, what difference is there between a tuxedo and a suit? If I were go wear something 2 button with notch lapels, I might as well wear a black suit and a tie.

+1

Return it.
 

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