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Twill vs. hopsack for business suit

badbeat808

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Unless you work as a garbage man, don’t get hopsack.
(The above answer is intended for those who are SF veterans).

But seriously twill is better than hopsack for business suits but neither are great choices.
Neither? How come twill is not a great choice?
 

badbeat808

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Thanks for all the answers.

These are the options I have. All navy:
  1. Hopsack, 100% virgin wool (WV), 240 grams, from Vitale Barberis Canonico.
  2. Twill, 100% wool Super 110, 260 grams, from Vitale Barberis Canonico.
  3. Sharksin, 100% wool Super 110, 260 grams, from Vitale Barberis Canonico.
  4. Twill, 100% virgin wool (WV) S130, 315 grams, from Drago.
I have only seen them on pictures. But I actually really like the sharkskin. Would that be better or worse than the twill and hopsack? It is in merino wool however. Would this means its less durable?
 
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gimpwiz

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Ask ten people on styleforum, get eleven opinions ;)

I am gonna give you my opinion based on your location and need, but without representative photos. Super simple, get option (2). Twill, Super 110. VBC is a solid manufacturer of cloth and you almost certainly won't regret how you look as long as you pick a reasonable color. It should be long-wearing, more biased towards cold than hot (and by suit-wearing standards, your weather is more cold than hot.)

Navy and charcoal are common suggestions for a first suit. Mid-gray is quite neutral and tasteful as well. And "navy" can run the gamut from lighter to darker without any concern. Now you absolutely don't have to do any of those things for a first suit (or any suit) but it's the safe choice for most people.

Now with representative photos we can give better ideas of style etc.
 

badbeat808

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Thanks a lot. I think what I was hoping for was some general guideline, like something is always more durable and better for everyday use than the other, but it doesn't seem like something is much better than the other. How come you would pick twill and not sharkskin for example?

I believe number 2 is twill, but they forgot to list it.

Here's the direct links:
 
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brax

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Neither? How come twill is not a great choice?
It is way too casual for a business suit. Especially if you‘re just getting started With your business wardrobe.
 

brax

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Thanks for all the answers.

These are the options I have. All navy:
  1. Hopsack, 100% virgin wool (WV), 240 grams, from Vitale Barberis Canonico.
  2. Twill, 100% wool Super 110, 260 grams, from Vitale Barberis Canonico.
  3. Sharksin, 100% wool Super 110, 260 grams, from Vitale Barberis Canonico.
  4. Twill, 100% virgin wool (WV) S130, 315 grams, from Drago.
I have only seen them on pictures. But I actually really like the sharkskin. Would that be better or worse than the twill and hopsack? It is in merino wool however. Would this means its less durable?
Easy call. Among these go with three but if I were you I’d go with something heavier, maybe in the 330g range. There has been a recent discussion in the “unfunded liabilities” or maybe “ongoing bespoke project” thread addressing which books are best at this 11-12 oz weight.
 

breakaway01

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Easy call. Among these go with three but if I were you I’d go with something heavier, maybe in the 330g range. There has been a recent discussion in the “unfunded liabilities” or maybe “ongoing bespoke project” thread addressing which books are best at this 11-12 oz weight.
Completely agree that for Scandinavia I’d go for a slightly heavier fabric. It will drape better and be more durable.
 

gimpwiz

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Hah, I forgot that models and good photography make just about everything look good. Yes, the sharkskin one looks good. But frankly I think you should pick your favorite from the store. I am not sold on others' opinion that twill will look unprofessional. I do echo that yes, a heavier weight will probably serve you better.
 

breakaway01

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Agree that I’m not entirely sure why some have a bias against twill. I’d have no problem choosing a twill weave for a suit fabric over, say, a plain weave. Twill is just a type of weave; sharkskin is a type of twill weave too.
 

TheSuitBurnsBetter

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Thanks for all the answers.

These are the options I have. All navy:
  1. Hopsack, 100% virgin wool (WV), 240 grams, from Vitale Barberis Canonico.
  2. Twill, 100% wool Super 110, 260 grams, from Vitale Barberis Canonico.
  3. Sharksin, 100% wool Super 110, 260 grams, from Vitale Barberis Canonico.
  4. Twill, 100% virgin wool (WV) S130, 315 grams, from Drago.
I have only seen them on pictures. But I actually really like the sharkskin. Would that be better or worse than the twill and hopsack? It is in merino wool however. Would this means its less durable?
I have a navy suit in a 260g worsted twill and I would recommend going for the 315g instead. The 260 wrinkles more and the pants don't hold a crease as well. And since hot weather doesn't seem to be an issue for you, that weight will not wear overly hot for most of the year.
 

pasadena man

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The worsted twill seems the most versatile of these options. I like hopsack, it has a certain textural interest that the twill does not to my eye. That very difference makes it somewhat less versatile though. If you haven't spent some time around sharkskin I would be reluctant to get it as a first suit. It can have a somewhat shimmering sheen in certain lights that is an acquired taste, and might not be seen as appropriate in all professional environments.

Didn't think of it until this post but Scandinavia seems to have a very good climate for wearing suits, not too hot in summer and with a temperature range well suited for three or four season weight suits. Here in Southern California we are highly reliant on air conditioning to make suits bearable during the summer (It still amazes me to see 1940's movies where Bogie and others are wearing suits with ties and a hat in LA pre air conditioning!).
 

Despos

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@badbeat808

What do you mean by twill? Calvary twill? Whipcord?
 
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badbeat808

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Thanks again for all the answers.

It seems I should be looking for a heavier suit. As I understand it, it will drape better and be more durable.
But by looking at the pictures of the suits they have, it seems the heavier suits are less fine in the material. Is this something general about heavier suits, that they are less fine, or is just coincidence?

I also noticed that the 315 gram suit they have is merino wool. Would this be less preferable? I believe merino wool is more fine than regular wool or virgin wool, but this will just make it less durable. Right?

Also, some of you are not fond of either twill, hopsack or sharkskin. For a first suit to be used all year round, what kind of weave would you then prefer? I guess the weave is mostly just for looks and has nothing to do with durability?
 

JLibourel

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So, hopsack is not a suitable suiting fabric, "only for garbage men," etc. Oh dear! I shall have to get rid of three of my six W.W. Chan suits (all with Harrison's of Edinburgh fabrics). Guess I'll head over to the Salvation Army and donate them today!

Maybe I am channeling my inner Cruiser (for those of you who remember him from Andyland), but, frankly, if a man is wearing a handsome, properly fitting suit, I doubt if anyone, even a clothing geek, is going to give a damn about the minutia of fabric selection unless something is seriously "off," e.g., a heavy flannel or tweed in midsummer or a lightweight linen in midwinter.

I also take some umbrage at the slur against "garbage men." These men engage in honest work performing necessary, nay, vital services to the public, and I am sure these men attend weddings, funerals and other solemn events where wearing a suit would be most appropriate. (Lest I be accused of "sexism," I presume in these days of equal opportunity there are some "garbage women" out there somewhere, but I have never seen one.)

As a postscript, I would just like to second those comments that those fabric weights in the 240-260g. range seem far too light for year-round wear in Sweden. I mean, I live in Southern California, and those are summer weights for me. I should think something in the 360 to 400g. range would be low-end for your needs.
 
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