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Tweed wanted.

LabelKing

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I am thinking of having a trench style coat made in a tweed.

And giving a little bow to the esteemed Duke of Windsor, the tweed should be particularly flamboyant, in a colored large windowpane check on a grey back.

Are there any particular sources?
 

aportnoy

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whoopee

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The grey limits the choices of tweeds severely. I looked through a couple tweed bunches and found a 560g grey herringbone with a 2.25"x2.75" royal blue overpane, a 560g mid grey/geen/fawn (created by a mix of at least six different shades of yarns) with 2.25"x2.375" double width overpane formed by a royal blue in the horizontal lines and a lighter blue int he vertical, and a 435g overall dark grey (light grey/charcoal/olive-ish brown) with a thick, triple width 2.375"x2.75" royal overpane. I do not think they are really flamboyant, but I suppose patterned overcoats aren't seen much these days. If the descriptions appeal to you, I may be able to supply pictures.
 

Concordia

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If you are not a member of London Lounge, you might wish to investigate there.
 

Full Canvas

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I understand that the very best source is still W. Bill Ltd., in the general Saville Row area. They should have any Donegal, Harris, or even a Shetland for you.
13 New Burlington Street, London, W1S 3BG

Aportnoy already mentioned Minnis (Hardy).

However, since you live in California, you might want to consider a lighter weight tweed cloth. That could expand your color and pattern possibilities. My tailor made a nice DB overcoat for our southern California "winters." I recall he used only eleven or twelve ounce cloth. It is fully lined. Therefore, the weight of the cloth and lining provide sufficient weight for "drape" without making the coat too heavy or too warm for this area's climate. Your bay area weather is not that much different.

The eleven ounce Breanish Harris Tweeds below captured from the Harris Tweed Shop's website would certainly be flamboyant on an overcoat's expanse.
http://www.harristweedshop.com/


BreanishGlenCalanais.jpg


BreanishGlenMhor.jpg


BreanishStornowayBlue.jpg


Now . . . if you are talking Minsk weather, that calls for a coat of another weight. That old Sulka camel hair Ulster coat in my avatar must be at least twenty-ounce cloth. But, it sure is warm!
__________________________________________
 

Will

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Most suitings are going to be too subdued. In addition to W. Bill, contact the North Highland Tweed company for swatches. They have the real thing. If you are a London Lounge member there are images of their offerings in the tweed folder.

My country coat was made from a 15 oz. Donegal from Magee in Ireland. The weight is perfect for California.

I don't think Magee has a web presence for cloth but if you contact them they usually offer four or five hand loomed Donegals that are wonderful.
 

LabelKing

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Indeed, I am looking for something that shouts Tweed in the loudest voice of English eccentricism. Whoopee, some of those sound quite interesting; royal blue seems to be nice for an overpane. I will also check out some of the mills and ask if they have any swatches or images. I've been to the London Lounge and did not find anything applicable. This is nice but the pane is a bit too thin:
breanish-grey.jpg
 

LabelKing

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whoopee

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The blue panes are actually lighter than royal. Closer to a darker electric blue. The 560g herringone
DSC01056.jpg
The 435g/14oz
DSC01057.jpg
This one is the green/grey. Colour is accurate.
DSC01058.jpg
 

Full Canvas

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Those tweed bunches are quite nice, whoopee. What is their source, please?
________________________________
 

thinman

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I agree with FullCanvas regarding W. Bill. I just looked through their books searching for jacket fabric. They have a huge selection and I saw weights up to 20 oz.
 

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