Tweed and temperatures

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Vintage Gent, Aug 28, 2012.

  1. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    Once upon a time, I had thought about commissioning a tweed norfolk jacket. But the good folks at WW Chan won't do one without three fittings. And without a trip to Hong Kong (something that isn't in the cards), that's a laborious process that taxes my impatience.

    So, I thought, why not a three-piece tweed suit? There's one fabric that I've taken a shine to. It's pattern number 2400 in the John Hardy Alsport book.

    [​IMG]

    But the damn thing's 19 oz.! Now, I'm not thinking about a tweed suit as anything I could wear for more than about three months out of the year. But am I going to bake in this? There are some interesting 16 oz. fabrics in the Alsport book and some in the Porter & Harding Glenroyal at about 15 oz. Should I be looking at those instead?

    As a point of reference, I have another winter three-piece suit, in a 14 oz. Minni's flannel. I can wear it quite comfortably up to the mid 60s (about 18C). I wear it from early-November to mid-March.
     


  2. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    Anybody?
     


  3. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    19oz you will be warm, especially with a three piece. Great for cold winters, but not much else.

    I'd have a look at a 16oz or lighter even.
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    you are going to melt
     


  5. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    This, unless you move out of south Texas.

    I have one tweed SC which I pair with flannels. I wore it about three times last year, on business trips to the northern states. Just no need for it in Texas.
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    it's not just that it's heavy, though 19 is REALLY heavy, it's that allsport is very densely woven. That stuff truly is for the Scottish moors. In winter.
     


  7. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    I can't see that being of any use in Galveston. Head up here. It's winter clothes central and I love it.
     


  8. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    +1. I had a heavy tweed three piece and practically was able to wear it one day a year in London - even then I was hot.
     


  9. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    OK, folks, point well taken. Given that, in Galveston, we have about a month worth of days spread out over the winter season when you're likely to have a high temperature of no more than 50 degrees, with overcast sky and a vigorous 20 mph wind, what would be the tweed you'd recommend for that? Would the Porter & Harding Glenroyal (about 15 oz.) be more my speed?
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    you should take a look at worsted allsport, which is much ligther (12 I think?) but the same patterns and still very "tweedy"
     


  11. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    I've seen it, and it seems more like "tweed with training wheels" to me.
     


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    well it kind of is. Look, you really have no use for tweed where you live. I would suggest a shetland would be great for you but you can't make a suit out of it, or at least you shouldn't, and if you do, get two pairs of pants, or even three, and be prepared to burn through them quickly. I honestly think shetland pants would look ridiculous though.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2012


  13. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    I really like the W Bill tweed book Chan carries. I think it's 14-16 oz.
     


  14. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    19 oz is overcoating weight. Also, something porous like Shetland or Harris tweed doesn't wear too hot even in heavier weights because it traps air and remains breathable, but those thornproof-like cloths are very dense, so you'll perspire profusely in a three-piece. On the other hand, if you want a proper old fashioned winter shooting suit to be worn without outerwear (or maybe an unlined Barbour jacket), then that's the cloth for you.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2012


  15. Geezer

    Geezer Senior member

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    I find 15/16oz tweed comfortable, in suits, in British weather 6 months of the year.

    17/18oz about 3-4 months of the year, on the colder days. But to be honest my 17/18oz tweed two-piece doesn't get worn much.

    I have one 19/20oz tweed odd jacket that I find fine for almost half the year. Without vest, undershirt, topcoat or other layers.

    But I live in the UK, and I do not "run hot". I happily wear 15-16oz worsted suits on all bar the hottest days here, and think of 11-12oz as almost borderline tropical cloth and was wearing a suit of that weight the other day in 30+ C degrees in the Middle East.

    Back when I was a lad, we understood that 15/16oz was the lightest weight properly acceptable for hard-wearing weather-resistant tweed. And 17/18 was much better. Tweedlike cloths in the 10-13oz region were, we were sure, only for Americans wanting a facsimile of a real tweed jacket. (No offence meant.)

    I have a couple of more recent 14oz "urban tweeds" (ie one blue, one grey), for which purpose I find the slightly lighter weight acceptable.

    And, radicaldog, 19oz is traditionally not really an overcoat weight. Overcoats used to start at 24. Though these days I concede many are made up in what would traditionally have been seen as heavy suit/jacketing cloths. But I agree that 3-pieces of 19oz traditional tweed will keep you happy on the moor or hill, or in the woods.

    Finally, if your benchmark for heavy wool is something like a Filson cruiser/mackinaw, think again. I have one and from memory it's 24oz, but it has a looser weave than the JGH stuff, and no canvas or lining. So they are much cooler than the British equivalent.
     


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