Tuxedo Shoes

[LabelKing]

These shoes are not appropriate. Only a pump.

 

[jcusey]

Originally Posted by iammatt

A wholecut seems just wrong to me. I do not see it as an appropriate formal shoe. Actually, I don't really like them in general.

Interestingly, accoring to Apparel Arts, the wholecut (in patent with U-shaped stitching around the throat) originated in the early '30s as a better-fitting and more-comfortable alternative to the pump. See Tutee's article about formal wear from January '06 on the LL.

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by hopkins_student

The swatch I saw today at the JL trunk show at NM was cloudy, more so even than the dark brown museum.

Honestly, unless you wear black tie on a monthly basis, I'd recommend getting a pair of Brooks Brothers patent oxfords for $250 unless price is no option. Although if price is no option you could get the Garnier II in both patent and black

museum calf


Anyone know who makes the BB patents? I'm surprised at the price.

 

[whoopee]

Wholecuts seem clunky and inelegant to me, because of the absence of any line. I suppose it can work well when down by a bespoke maker like Tony G who designs a very shapely shoe, but the stitching down the quarters of a "traditional" formal oxford would make any version sleeker. The buckle on the Jermyn II sweeps back and has a similar visual effect, which is why it does not suffer the same fate as a laced wholecut, along with the fact that it simply a sleeker and better designed shoe than 99% of non-bespoke. At least to me.

I would guess that the BB shoes are made by Sargent. Patent leather, I think, is cheaper, though I'm open to correction. Since they made such an effort to make a shoe which can only be used for semiformal and formal purposes, why didn't they specify a thin glued sole, too? That is one of my favourite details of formal footwear. Plus, it would make them even less expensive.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by jcusey

Interestingly, accoring to Apparel Arts, the wholecut (in patent with U-shaped stitching around the throat) originated in the early '30s as a better-fitting and more-comfortable alternative to the pump. See Tutee's article about formal wear from January '06 on the LL.
JC- That is why I qualified my statement. I have simply never seen a wholecut shoe that I like. I have looked many, many places but just find the overall design of a wholecut not to my taste.

 

[jcusey]

Originally Posted by iammatt

That is why I qualified my statement. I have simply never seen a wholecut shoe that I like. I have looked many, many places but just find the overall design of a wholecut not to my taste.

Oh, I don't really disagree with you. Or, rather, I've found that I like wholecut oxfords more on the shelf than on my feet. I just thought that the historical note was interesting.

 

[fritzl]

In Europe: Pump or plain derby(Blucher)

Pump looks better in calfskin.
Derby: Mainly in patent leather. I prefer calf.

 

[Tomasso]

Originally Posted by jcusey

I've found that I like wholecut oxfords more on the shelf than on my feet.

That's the situation I experience for many shoes when shopping. What looks great in size 8 often doesn't transfer to size 12.

 

[summej2]

Originally Posted by grimslade

Anyone know who makes the BB patents? I'm surprised at the price.

They could be C&J; Ben Silver sells C&J for a similar price

http://www.bensilver.com/fs_storefro...ay=951&group=1

 

[dopey]

This shoe has its origin with the footwear worn by members of the Ordo domus Sanctæ Mariæ Theutonicorum Ierosolimitanorum, though it is now not correct.

 

[hopkins_student]

Originally Posted by summej2

They could be C&J; Ben Silver sells C&J for a similar price

http://www.bensilver.com/fs_storefro...ay=951&group=1

Yes, but it is very important to note that the Brooks Brothers patent oxfords are not cap toes.

 

[grimslade]

And the BB shoes have that swan's neck stitching on the throat.

 

[billiebob]

I had a chance to get the BB patents for a hundred bucks, but I would wear them maybe once a year. I probably keep my EG black plaintoes polished enough to wear them formally anyway.

 

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by whoopee

Wholecuts seem clunky and inelegant to me, because of the absence of any line. I suppose it can work well when down by a bespoke maker like Tony G who designs a very shapely shoe, but the stitching down the quarters of a "traditional" formal oxford would make any version sleeker. The buckle on the Jermyn II sweeps back and has a similar visual effect, which is why it does not suffer the same fate as a laced wholecut, along with the fact that it simply a sleeker and better designed shoe than 99% of non-bespoke. At least to me.

I agree with you on every point. Wholecuts just don't do it for me. I can see the appeal of some when they're new and on the shelf, I guess, but I just don't care for them once worn. The absence of line is ruined by the creasing and wear. Then what's left?

Overall, the style usually strikes me as more intellectual exercise than fine shoe design.