I just picked up my made to order Hickey Freeman tuxedo. When I ordered it, the tailor suggested that I get a satin grosgrain lapel. I wasn't sure what he meant, but I got it. What a distinctive touch it adds to a tux. I also purchased a Hickey Freeman tie and cummerbund made of the same material. I am sure the many knowledgable contributors to this forum know all about this, but for those, like myself, I am passing this along. I love my new Hickey Freeman tie. I have a Robert Talbott black tie, but the material is so thick that I have trouble making a good knot. The Hickey Freeman grosgrain tie is just perfect. It is thin material, but very sturdy. Perfect for making the perfect knot. (I could never wear a pretied bow tie. I would be in constant fear that the clasp might break in the middle of a concert. Or, at dinner, fall in my soup.) After years of wearing so-so tuxedos, I now have one that fits me perfectly and has the style and design that I desired. I can't believe that it took me so long to do this. There are many fine made to order tuxedos available. If you wear a tux often, I recommend you investigate a made to measure tux.