Tuxedo Fabric - H&S vs VBC

[papertiger26]

I am having a tux made and requested some samples from Joe et al at mytailor. I wear one only 2-3x a year, so I wanted to find something nice, but a good value as it is put to use far less often than my daily wear suits. With that criteria, he provided options from the VBC Parennial Classics (various supers), Holland and Sherry Sloane Square and Loro Piana Super 120s. I have not read great things about Loro Piana, so narrowed it down to one of the VBC options or the HS option. I couldn't find much out regarding the Sloane Square books so thought I would ask and get perspective on the various VBC options as well. I can also request other options if these don't really fulfill the stated objective.

The H&S swatch seems to have a geometric ("Z"?) weave, which was interesting, but I am not sure in a good way. Would love to hear your thoughts, and thanks for the insight.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

Get either the Smith Mohair or something classic from the Dugdale Formals book.

 

[brokencycle]

Agree with above. My tailcoat is like 75% wool 25% mohair, and I love it. I will look to do something similar for a tux.

 

[papertiger26]

I have never seen the Dugdale Formals book, but have a handful of suits made from other Dugdale books that are among my favorites. I just didn't know if it was worth the premium for a seldom worn tux and the weights tend to be heavier. In a very prompt response, mytailor said they do not have the Formal book, but do carry Dugdale lines and could order individual swatches for me to look at. Looking online I think 3 are possibilities: 8719 (10oz; 100% wool), 8738 (10oz; 99% wool 1% cashmere) and 8742 (12 oz; 70% wool 30% mohair).

The first one is listed as black self-stripe but I cannot see it. I would prefer a plain weave. The first (and fabrics 8700-8733) are only $100 more than the other options. The final two (and 8734 and up) are $300 more, and I do not know if it is worth the premium. Also, 12oz seems a bit heavy for something that will be comfortable year-round. Sator provided a nice review of the book here that to my eye confirms 8719 is not a self-stripe, but a quick request of the swatches can easily confirm.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

Get the Dugdale 8742 Mohair - it's the most versatile fabric for a tux

 

[papertiger26]

Will the 12oz wear too warm? I can't speak for others, but the majority of events that I attend are in temp controlled areas with masses of people. This can cause them to be a little on the warm side. I also want something I can wear in comfortably in all seasons.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

It should be fine. In all honestly, a 10oz. mohair would be ideal (especially if you opt for a three-piece), but you'll do ok with a 12oz. as well. Black tie is worn in the evenings when it's cooler, so I can't imagine you'll be sweating away due to a 2oz. difference.