Tuxedo Fabric Choices

[Axelman 17]

I am in the process of finalizing a three piece tuxedo from Chan. It will be a one button, peak lapel with a shawl lapel vest. I had asked for a fabric in the 11-13oz range and they have sent me two options from H&S:

HS977039 black barathea wool worsted




HS977044 baack wool worsted




Does H&S make a good formal wear fabric? if so, are either of these good options? I am happy to go back to them and ask to see something different. I had originally thought that 11-13oz was a good mid weight fabric for a tux, but please let me know if you think I should look at something else, I didnt want anything too heavy.

Finally, Patrick suggested a fishtail back for the trousers. What are peoples thoughts on a fishtail vs. normal back? Would a fishtail only call for wearing suspenders? I dont particularly want to wear suspenders if I am already wearing a vest.

Thanks!

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by Axelman 17

Finally, Patrick suggested a fishtail back for the trousers. What are peoples thoughts on a fishtail vs. normal back? Would a fishtail only call for wearing suspenders? I dont particularly want to wear suspenders if I am already wearing a vest.

Thanks!

You should do the fishtail and you should wear the suspenders under the vest. Seriously. First, I don't see the conflict between the vest and the suspenders. Second, the suspenders will keep your pants in place much, much better than anything else. It's also pretty traditional to suspend your tuxedo pants.

 

[Sator]

I say go for this one from H Lesser:

Sadly, it is a puny 14 Oz. I would prefer something with real body - preferably in the order of 18-26 Oz. But alas, it is not to be.

I have a bolt of this 14 Oz barathea in my closet and can attest to it being beautiful stuff. If feels incredibly light and soft

 

[grimslade]

What is the speckling, Sator?

 

[Sator]

I'm not sure - dust on the scanner?

The sample in real life and my bolt are black as night - with no stars.

 

[Manton]

Definitely get the barathea.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by Axelman 17

I am in the process of finalizing a three piece tuxedo from Chan. It will be a one button, peak lapel with a shawl lapel vest. I had asked for a fabric in the 11-13oz range and they have sent me two options from H&S: HS977039 black barathea wool worsted HS977044 baack wool worsted Does H&S make a good formal wear fabric? if so, are either of these good options? I am happy to go back to them and ask to see something different. I had originally thought that 11-13oz was a good mid weight fabric for a tux, but please let me know if you think I should look at something else, I didnt want anything too heavy. Finally, Patrick suggested a fishtail back for the trousers. What are peoples thoughts on a fishtail vs. normal back? Would a fishtail only call for wearing suspenders? I dont particularly want to wear suspenders if I am already wearing a vest. Thanks!
Holland and Sherry make excellent formal fabrics. I wouldn't use the H. Lesser formal book, that is not their strong suit, err point.

 

[Sprezzatura2010]

I think that a tux should be as cool and light as possible. I think a mohair blend, with Oxxford-style lining, in a color kind of like Montblanc's blue-black ink, would be ideal.

And yes to the braces. I'm not sure about the fishtail, but a traditional split waistband can't hurt anything.

 

[Sator]

Yes, the H&S formal book is excellent. It is perhaps their finest book. However, I would still take the H Lesser over the H&S ANY DAY

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by Manton

Definitely get the barathea.

Why, is there some kind of rule governing this?

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Sprezzatura2010

I think that a tux should be as cool and light as possible. I think a mohair blend, with Oxxford-style lining, in a color kind of like Montblanc's blue-black ink, would be ideal. And yes to the braces. I'm not sure about the fishtail, but a traditional split waistband can't hurt anything.
Yes to light, yes to mohair, yes to color. With that combination it needs to be fully lined, though. At least, that is how mine is made up. No braces, I hate them, and a double breasted coat and well fitting pants make them unneccessary.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by grimslade

Why, is there some kind of rule governing this?

Yes.

 

[Manton]

All this talk of Lesser is a waste of time. Chan doesn't carry it and they won't take COM.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by Sator

Yes, the H&S formal book is excellent. It is perhaps their finest book. However, I would still take the H Lesser over the H&S ANY DAY

You are entitled to your tastes and you have your own look but the Lesser Formal book is a little too retro for most unless one wants to stand out as remarkable for dressing in the mode of La Belle Epoque.

 

[Sator]

I love braces. Nothing, absolutely nothing, makes the line of the trousers as crisp as proper brace trousers. Also, they are cut looser around the waist, making them more comfortable. Definitely, go with brace trousers with a high fishtail back. Just say "no" to anything less.