You are entitled to your tastes and you have your own look but the Lesser Formal book is a little too retro for most unless one wants to stand out as remarkable for dressing in the mode of La Belle Epoque. What is so retro about it? Can you explain why Lesser's plain black cloth somehow looks 100 years old whereas H&S's looks current? With specific examples? I agree with Sator that Lesser is much better quality than H&S. My problem with the Lesser formal book is that, as I recall, the lightest weight stuff in it is 12 ounces, and that is not really practical unless you intend to own more than one bespoke DJ. And, even in winter, black tie events tend to be overheated and overcrowded. Since you can't take your coat off, heavy cloth is not a great bet. The Smith formal book has lighter options that are just as, or close to, as good.