• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 8: Cuir de Russie card case from Equus Leather

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 8th auction is for a Cuir de Russie card case from Equus Leather. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Tuxedo Fabric Choices

Axelman 17

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
1,396
Reaction score
368
I am in the process of finalizing a three piece tuxedo from Chan. It will be a one button, peak lapel with a shawl lapel vest. I had asked for a fabric in the 11-13oz range and they have sent me two options from H&S:

HS977039 black barathea wool worsted




HS977044 baack wool worsted




Does H&S make a good formal wear fabric? if so, are either of these good options? I am happy to go back to them and ask to see something different. I had originally thought that 11-13oz was a good mid weight fabric for a tux, but please let me know if you think I should look at something else, I didnt want anything too heavy.

Finally, Patrick suggested a fishtail back for the trousers. What are peoples thoughts on a fishtail vs. normal back? Would a fishtail only call for wearing suspenders? I dont particularly want to wear suspenders if I am already wearing a vest.

Thanks!
 

grimslade

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Messages
10,883
Reaction score
49
Originally Posted by Axelman 17

Finally, Patrick suggested a fishtail back for the trousers. What are peoples thoughts on a fishtail vs. normal back? Would a fishtail only call for wearing suspenders? I dont particularly want to wear suspenders if I am already wearing a vest.

Thanks!


You should do the fishtail and you should wear the suspenders under the vest. Seriously. First, I don't see the conflict between the vest and the suspenders. Second, the suspenders will keep your pants in place much, much better than anything else. It's also pretty traditional to suspend your tuxedo pants.
 

Sator

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
3,083
Reaction score
30
I say go for this one from H Lesser:



Sadly, it is a puny 14 Oz. I would prefer something with real body - preferably in the order of 18-26 Oz. But alas, it is not to be.

I have a bolt of this 14 Oz barathea in my closet and can attest to it being beautiful stuff. If feels incredibly light and soft
 

grimslade

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Messages
10,883
Reaction score
49
What is the speckling, Sator?
 

Manton

RINO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,583
Reaction score
2,855
Definitely get the barathea.
 

Film Noir Buff

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
6,134
Reaction score
13
Originally Posted by Axelman 17
I am in the process of finalizing a three piece tuxedo from Chan. It will be a one button, peak lapel with a shawl lapel vest. I had asked for a fabric in the 11-13oz range and they have sent me two options from H&S: HS977039 black barathea wool worsted HS977044 baack wool worsted Does H&S make a good formal wear fabric? if so, are either of these good options? I am happy to go back to them and ask to see something different. I had originally thought that 11-13oz was a good mid weight fabric for a tux, but please let me know if you think I should look at something else, I didnt want anything too heavy. Finally, Patrick suggested a fishtail back for the trousers. What are peoples thoughts on a fishtail vs. normal back? Would a fishtail only call for wearing suspenders? I dont particularly want to wear suspenders if I am already wearing a vest. Thanks!
Holland and Sherry make excellent formal fabrics. I wouldn't use the H. Lesser formal book, that is not their strong suit, err point.
 

Sprezzatura2010

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Messages
765
Reaction score
2
I think that a tux should be as cool and light as possible. I think a mohair blend, with Oxxford-style lining, in a color kind of like Montblanc's blue-black ink, would be ideal.

And yes to the braces. I'm not sure about the fishtail, but a traditional split waistband can't hurt anything.
 

grimslade

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Messages
10,883
Reaction score
49
Originally Posted by Manton
Definitely get the barathea.

Why, is there some kind of rule governing this?
 

itsstillmatt

The Liberator
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
14,384
Reaction score
2,073
Originally Posted by Sprezzatura2010
I think that a tux should be as cool and light as possible. I think a mohair blend, with Oxxford-style lining, in a color kind of like Montblanc's blue-black ink, would be ideal. And yes to the braces. I'm not sure about the fishtail, but a traditional split waistband can't hurt anything.
Yes to light, yes to mohair, yes to color. With that combination it needs to be fully lined, though. At least, that is how mine is made up. No braces, I hate them, and a double breasted coat and well fitting pants make them unneccessary.
 

Manton

RINO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,583
Reaction score
2,855
Originally Posted by grimslade
Why, is there some kind of rule governing this?

Yes.
 

Manton

RINO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,583
Reaction score
2,855
All this talk of Lesser is a waste of time. Chan doesn't carry it and they won't take COM.
 

Film Noir Buff

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
6,134
Reaction score
13
Originally Posted by Sator
Yes, the H&S formal book is excellent. It is perhaps their finest book. However, I would still take the H Lesser over the H&S ANY DAY

You are entitled to your tastes and you have your own look but the Lesser Formal book is a little too retro for most unless one wants to stand out as remarkable for dressing in the mode of La Belle Epoque.
 

Sator

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2006
Messages
3,083
Reaction score
30
I love braces. Nothing, absolutely nothing, makes the line of the trousers as crisp as proper brace trousers. Also, they are cut looser around the waist, making them more comfortable. Definitely, go with brace trousers with a high fishtail back. Just say "no" to anything less.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 30 3.7%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 142 17.4%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 266 32.5%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 130 15.9%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 70 8.6%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 48 5.9%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 25 3.1%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 22 2.7%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 17 2.1%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 9 1.1%
  • 100+

    Votes: 52 6.4%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
429,046
Messages
9,228,130
Members
193,702
Latest member
n2r49rs
Top