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Turned-back cuffs

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Nick M, Aug 12, 2003.

  1. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Gentlemen,

    I'm planning on getting a few casual shirts custom made - think jeans with a shirt casual - and was contemplating the cuff type. My initial thought was to go with twin buttons running lengthways along the wrist, but there's also the option of the twin-button model with an additional length of fabric turned back over the cuff.

    Does anyone have any opinions on these type of cuffs? Those who have them, do they tend to get in your way? Get stuck on jacket sleeves, etc.?

    I notice that all the models in the window of the local Borrelli store have them now, on shirts with button-down collars. Does this mean they're gearing up to be the next big thing... again?
     


  2. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've been toying with the idea of having my next batch of Jantzen shirts made with turn-back cuffs. They strike me as dressy, am I mistaken???
     


  3. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    My first Jantzen Tailor shirt arrived last week. I got one with turned back cuffs and wore it yesterday.

    The turned back cuffs didn't seem to "get in the way" as much as double cuff shirts. I have difficulty keeping my white double cuffs white when I wear them at the office. They seem to pick up more desktop dirt than button cuffs do.

    On the train home after work, I also folded them over the ends of the sleeve of my suitcoat and tried that on for size. I _think_ I liked it.

    I am American, and can't help feel a little self conscious when wearing a shirt with cufflinks. My British colleague, who wears many double cuff shirts enjoyed himself poking fun at my turned up cuffs, but I think I might get my next Jantzen shirt with them. . .particularly if that shirt is not for business use.

    For what it is worth...

    Bic
     


  4. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    These cuffs were popularised, if not invented, by Turnbull & Asser for Sean Connery in the early James Bond movies. They are very early sixties and demand suits with narrow lapels and narrow ties.

    And of course the right tone of voice to order your Martini: "Shaken, not stirred".
     


  5. aybojs

    aybojs Senior member

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    My first JT order just shipped out, so I'm getting ready for a new set myself, and have also been thinking about turnback cuffs. Thing is, I've never seen one in person (Houston shopping has pretty tame offerings), and I'm hardpressed to fine a picture of a shirt with turnback cuffs online; JT has the picture of the cuff alone, but not a shirt with it.

    I'm thinking of getting a multicolor striped shirt with turnback cuffs and a darker one for clubwear. What are the usual accompanying features in a shirt with them: Spread or button-down collar? Self or contrasting cuffs/collar? etc,etc.

    P.S. I'd be really interested to hear what sort of specific patterns/colors/stylistic features you guys are ordering (doesn't matter whether it's Jantzen or not). We should have a "brag about your custom design ideas" thread, that might be fun. I'll add mine once the first order comes in and I figure out what I'm getting.
     


  6. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    I myself do not have a shirt with turn back cuffs, though i am planning on ordering one soon. my tailor wears them daily, and it looks very elegant. if you want to see them on a shirt, rent the first james bond film, i forgot its name. i consider them to be something in between a button cuff and a french cuff, and inappropriate for a "casual" shirt (to each his own). i'm one who believes that jewelry looks tacky on men, and i consider the turn back cuff to be an alternative to cufflinks, except on formal occasions. btw, they are also known as neapolitan cuffs, or x-cuffs.

    as far as styles, i think the turn back is a good way to make a more casual pattern, such as checks, look more dressy.

    the borrelli shirts described above sound god-awful to me, though i'm biased against button-down collars.
     


  7. AAA

    AAA Senior member

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    Does anyone have a picture or a link they can post? I don't even know what this looks like.
     


  8. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Something like this... [​IMG] Pictures are quite elusive - a testament to the cuff's rarity, I suppose. That picture's from Interno8 Donna, hence the flowers... EDIT: More manly example... [​IMG]
     


  9. AAA

    AAA Senior member

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  10. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    I was just thinking about purchasing shirts with that type of cuff. Personally I think they are quite elegant if not a bit archaic in certian stylings.

    Last time I was watching "Diamonds are Forever," and Mr.Bond, and a variety of other characters were wearing these types of shirts. The narrow tie, lapel can work but perhaps a thick Windosr knot can prove effectual too.
     


  11. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I haven't seen those particular shirts but I can speak about Borrelli's button-down collars. I'm not normally a fan of button-downs but Borrelli's versions are GREAT. They even look good with a more casual suit and tie.
     


  12. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Thanks, guys.

    I think I'll just go with the barrel cuffs - the turnback is probably too dressy for jeans, especially if I'm rolling my sleeves up...
     


  13. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    I had a custom shirt made with this cuff style.  One of the things I had to make a decision of was how much fabric to fold over.  You'd notice in the Sean Connery picture Turnbull does a rather small but wide fold (I guss Turnbull wanted to show off their handset cuffs).
     


  14. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

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    Hmmm....

    I suspect my comments may be a bit controversial, and perhaps belong in a different thread.

    I didn't know the history of the folded back cuffs. . . .and the suggestion (was it Mr. Bengal-Stripe's) that they go well with narrow ties and narrow lapels is very interesting.

    My guess was nearly 180 degrees in the opposite direction.  The shirt I ordered was made of a thick two ply herringbone.  I selected a large spread collar, and 3.5 mm mother of pearl buttons.

    In an earlier post in this thread, I suggested that I would have the overflow cuff on a casual shirt.  By this I meant that I wouldn't wear an over flow cuff shirt on a day when I was making a presentation to the board of directors of my company, or when I was negotiating a million dollar license, or when I was appearing in court, or being interviewed for a new job.
    With minor variation, each of those activities to me suggests a conservative, "draw no attention to itself" shirt.  The overflow cuffs may be elegant, but they strike me as just a bit costume-y. . . . .However, I would wear the shirt to the office on a day when I didn't anticipate meeting anyone important or contentious. I certainly would wear it to the theater on a Saturday, or on a date on Sunday afternoon.

    The last thing I would want would be for a business associate to wonder why in the heck I was wearing a pirate shirt and not focus on the substance of my presentation. . . .or to think I was frivolous and not to be taken seriously because I looked like a muskateer.

    I suspect this post says much more about me than it does about turnback cuffs.

    Bic
     


  15. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I just passed through Jermyn Street yesterday. Official name of the cuffs in question is "gauntlet cuff".

    As Michael Caine (Harry Palmer was not known for gauntlet cuffs) might have said: "Not many people know that".
     


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