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Turnbull & Asser shirts - quality and fit?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AHDK, Feb 20, 2011.

  1. AHDK

    AHDK Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    Denmark
    Hello there,

    New user here. I have been following the forum for a few weeks with big interest. It seems to be a great place for upmarket clothing, so I have a question.

    I am 21, 6'2" tall and 180lbs. Thin, tall and broad shouldered. For a while I prefered dress shirts from Eterna (Redline) or Eton. Both slimfit. Their fit is very good, but there is of course a clear quality difference between the two.

    I have been saving up some money to buy a few Turnbull & Asser shirts. But I was wondering how the fit of their RTW shirts are, compared to Etons RTW slimfit? I know T&A is not slimfit, but is it a really big fit, or could it go for my sort of build?

    Also, I have been searching the forums about the quality of their RTW shirts. How does this compare to Etons RTW?


    Hope you can help and thanks in advance [​IMG]

    -Alex
     
  2. mrbig

    mrbig Senior member

    Messages:
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    Apr 9, 2007
    Turnbull & Asser are amongst the top tier for quality.

    However: they don't do a few things that some of the other makers do, that doesn't really affect the longevity or wearability of the shirts with a suit. Majorly, pattern matching. They might not match the pattern at the shoulder, but they do at the cuffs, collars and on the button placket. Construction is flawless.

    Fit-wise, they used to be very generous, but have slimmed the cut down and broadened the shoulder slightly - but if you go to the online store, they have measurements listed under the size guide.
     
  3. Don Carlos

    Don Carlos Senior member

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    7,527
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    May 15, 2009
    Correct in that they don't focus on pattern matching at the shoulder.

    Much like functional jacket cuffs, however, pattern matching is not a necessity for quality. It is an imperfect proxy or indicator that people on this board often use when looking at an item and trying to ascertain its quality. As such indicators go, pattern matching at the shoulder is one of the least important and least indicative. To wit: many third-rate online MTM makers will carefully pattern-match at the shoulder while skimping on other, more critical construction issues. Similarly, many mid-tier RTW suitmakers will use functional cuffs to add the veneer of quality to a cheap, fused suit jacket. Such tactics have become extremely common in recent years, following closely on the popularity -- on this board and others -- of looking for such things as quality indicators.

    Tl;dr: Pattern matching is not the tried-and-true mark of quality that it once was, and T&A's casual attitude toward it should not be held against the brand.
     
  4. BlueHorseShoe

    BlueHorseShoe Senior member

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    T&A quality will smoke the Etons.
     
  5. Northampton Novice

    Northampton Novice Senior member

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    T&A Shirts are amongst the best IMHO and I went through a phase of only buying their shirts. I am a similar build to yourself and whilst their shirts are not cut as slim as I would like it's by no means baggy, however you may find their standard sleeve lengths on the short side.

    I haven't purchased any of their shirts over the past two years so I don't know if they are now offering differing sleeve lengths.

    Good luck
     
  6. SpallaCamiccia

    SpallaCamiccia Senior member

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    Location:
    Between Pinkos land and the sanitarium.
    Neapolitans are the best.

    Period.
     
  7. pabloj

    pabloj Senior member

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    In my limited experience H&K is slightly better than T&A, but if you like handmade details then look to Naples
     
  8. Xiaogou

    Xiaogou Senior member

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    Sep 2, 2008
    Neapolitans are the best.

    Period.


    Really? Who?

    Please don't be a Napoli nut-swinger, claiming anything and everything clothing related from Naples is superior to anything else out there. [​IMG]
     
  9. csoukoulis

    csoukoulis Senior member

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    I have a few and i LOVE them.
     
  10. Hombre Secreto

    Hombre Secreto Senior member

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    Lost Angeles
    I have 3 of them and I like them. Not crazy about them, but they are well made.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Location:
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    T&A Shirts are amongst the best IMHO and I went through a phase of only buying their shirts. I am a similar build to yourself and whilst their shirts are not cut as slim as I would like it's by no means baggy, however you may find their standard sleeve lengths on the short side.

    +1

    Found them surprisingly slim when I tried some on in the Jermyn St shop. I imagined myself to be swimming in fabric, but as it turned out, not so much.

    However the sleeve length was slightly too short for me and shirts only come with the one sleeve length.

    Lovely construction however.
     
  12. BlueHorseShoe

    BlueHorseShoe Senior member

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    Really? How can you be so sure? I personally like Neapolitans too as somebody have said it so well, they are the best.

    I've owned both.

    What does Eton have to do with Napoli? [​IMG]
     
  13. mrbig

    mrbig Senior member

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    I forgot to add this:

    I've tried a few other Jermyn St names including Hilditch & Key, Harvie & Hudson and Emma Willis. I found H&K's collars to be 'weak' and lacking presence - otherwise a well made shirt for a good price. Harvie & Hudson's buttons were razor thin, the collars were fused but the cuffs weren't (weirdly) and the collar was half decent looking. at 33GBP on sale, worthwhile. BUT they offer different sleeve lengths unlike the more renowned names. Emma Willis was great, but I wouldnt deck out my wardrobe with their shirts, just didn't feel all that special - and they were the most expensive I've bought.

    Turnbull & Asser might not be Finamore or Barba...but they don't claim to be. They offer a simple, well made, well cut shirt that - works. And on sale, for 80GBP - are good value considering the Exclusives retail for 130GBP+ (even better if you don't live in the EU and get the VAT refund)
    I'm probably a life customer because they work, they have good customer service and their fabrics are stunning to look at.
     
  14. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Is there anywhere in London that stocks any of the more popular Neapolitan shirt brands?
     
  15. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    Turnbull & Asser are amongst the top tier for quality.

    However: they don't do a few things that some of the other makers do, that doesn't really affect the longevity or wearability of the shirts with a suit. Majorly, pattern matching. They might not match the pattern at the shoulder, but they do at the cuffs, collars and on the button placket. Construction is flawless.

    Fit-wise, they used to be very generous, but have slimmed the cut down and broadened the shoulder slightly - but if you go to the online store, they have measurements listed under the size guide.


    Just like any other machine made shirt.... I think Duke Gambert makes a hell of a better shirt.
     
  16. calisanfran

    calisanfran Senior member

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    Really like the two T&A's that I have. Fabric feel is gorgeous. Both are french cuff contrast collars.
     
  17. AHDK

    AHDK Well-Known Member

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    Feb 13, 2011
    Location:
    Denmark
    Thanks for all the help [​IMG]

    Sounds like T&A will live up to my expectations [​IMG]


    Just one wonder, the short sleeves.. Just how much shorter are they? A Eterna size 16.5/42 is a perfect fit for me, with sleeves and all. I have a 43 that is too big for me, had to tumble dry it to get it down to proper fit. Both are slimfit, so I am worried if I order a T&A size 16.5 that the sleeves will be too short?

    I take it that 16.5 in both Eton/Eterna/T&A is the same size for all three?

    Thanks again,
     
  18. Northampton Novice

    Northampton Novice Senior member

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    Have no experience or indeed knowledge of Eterna so I can't give you a helpful comparison.
     
  19. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Location:
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    Just one wonder, the short sleeves.. Just how much shorter are they?


    If you have a regular sleeve length you should be fine. I take a long sleeve (36) and the 16.5 was slightly too short.

    IIRC the shirt I tried on in the shop had been washed a few times to give you an idea of the actual size after washing.
     
  20. mrbig

    mrbig Senior member

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    Just like any other machine made shirt.... I think Duke Gambert makes a hell of a better shirt.
    Fair criticism...but does Gambert charge US100-110 for a shirt? As for sleeve lengths: they are 35.5-36" and shrink to about 35-35.5". I find that by pulling on the sleeves (not by the cuffs or by the shoulder seam, but through the bicep area) you can claim most of that back. Washing in cold water helps too, and helps colours stay fresh (and its cheaper).
     

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