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Turnback cuffs on linen suit jacket? Please advise.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by thinman, Feb 17, 2013.

  1. thinman

    thinman Senior member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2005
    Location:
    USA
    Short summary: How can I disguise a ring of dirt on the cuffs of my new linen/silk suit jacket (shown below), assuming my dry cleaner can't get it out? I'm leaning toward turnback cuffs, but would like input from forum experts on (1) alternatives and (2) the advisability of turnback cuffs on a single-breasted, 2-button, double-vented linen/silk suit jacket with peak lapels (and flat front, cuffed trousers). Here is one of the offending cuffs:

    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Here's the backstory:

    The week before Christmas, I visited the NMLC in Dallas and was pleased to find a cream linen/silk suit in my size. Since I've been looking for a cream linen suit for several years, I bought it and took it to my alterations tailor once I got home. He cuffed the trousers, lengthened the jacket sleeves, and added new MOP buttons, but told me that there was not only a crease where the old cuff ended, but also a ring of grime that his dry cleaner couldn't remove :(. The sleeve buttons are also too far from the end of the sleeve. I had forgotten that lengthening the sleeves and moving the false button holes on the sleeves would leave visible holes in linen. So the sleeve buttons are too far from the ends of the sleeves.

    My tailor offered to put a ring of white stitching over the dirt, saying this is sometimes a feature of women's jackets. I declined and researched turnback cuffs on jackets. I find they have a history, but are most often found on overcoats and occasionally on tweed odd jackets. Turnback cuffs rarely appear on suit jackets, but here is HRH Prince Charles with turnback cuffs on a suit jacket:

    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Gordon Geckko also appeared with turnback cuffs on a suit jacket in the movie "Wall Street", but I've only found one instance of turnback cuffs on a linen suit jacket (double-breasted, with peak lapels), worn by Richard Merkin in a GQ article from Nov. 1990:

    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

    Since Merkin apparently had a reputation as something of a "flaneur", an idler and dandy, I'm not sure turnback cuffs on my suit jacket is advisable. Opinions? Alternatives?
     
  2. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Such cuffs on the sleeves of such an infoirmal garment would be very unusual but they maybe your only option - will the sleeves then be too short though? Maybe it was not really your size after all?

    This looks lijke some sort of exposure to the sun or else a stain but I assume that "NMLC" is not a store to which you can return it.
     
  3. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Jan 24, 2005
    Location:
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    It's not unusual for me to need the cuffs of RTW jackets lengthened slightly. Linen generally has a crease marking the previous fold, but it irons or steams out. The grime was something I didn't count on and I also forgot that my tailor couldn't move the false buttonholes without leaving tiny needle holes (My photo makes it look like the extension of the sleeve is a different color from the rest of the sleeve, but that's just the lighting. The problem is a ring of grime right where the previous fold was located.)

    There may be enough fabric to have turnback cuffs. Turnback cuffs on odd jackets seem to be found on more casual jackets, but on jackets made of heavier fabrics than linen, usually tweed. Turnbacks on suit jackets seem even more rare, hence my hesitation.

    Before having the suit altered, I could have returned it, but I live about 1100 miles from the Dallas store where I bought it and there are no Neiman-Marcus Last Call stores within about 5 hours of me.
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2013

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