Trousers for athletic builds

[BespokeBrooklyn]

I have recently ordered, and had to return, suits or trousers from Suit Supply, Spier and Mackay (contemporary fit), and Hickey Freeman (Modern Fit) because they were too slim in the thighs and seat. My waist is 35" or 35.5", and even size 38 trousers in those brands are too slim. Extra points if the line carries pants in summer weight wool. Could any of you recommend a brand or fit line of flat-fronted trousers that may work better for me? My first thought was Brooks Brothers' Madison line (although some of those have pleats).

 

[Despos]

Your body type is at odds with the proportions of current style trends. If you fit your thigh/hips the amount of alteration to reduce the waist will be difficult to do. Look for a MTM option in your price range. Will be better for you in the long term. Working with a tailor who would draft a pattern for you (MTM doesn’t do this) and build a custom trouser is the next level after MTM and will cost more. Having them made with either method gives you a choice of cloth type and weight. Let’s you choose the exact color and cloth weave you prefer. If you have trouble with cloth wearing through on the crotch, this will be a big plus. Advantage of working with a tailor is he has the responsibility to fit you and you avoid trial and error of sending your measurements to an online maker which may require multiple efforts to get the fitting figured out, if they ever do. You may have to work with more than one maker to find what works for you. Once you get a proper fit, you won’t look back.

 

[TheIronDandy]

I have a similar problem, though not as extreme: slimmer waist, larger legs, and also being on the taller side making it hard to find a proper rise. While I've had some success with MtM I find it really hinges on the knowledge of the person taking your measurements (and knowing the limits of their MtM business); bespoke is really the way to go if you want trousers that fit well, and the difference in fit and feel can't be explained, it has to be experienced. Like Despos wrote, once you get a proper fit you don't look back (except maybe to cringe).

If you're in NYC (the name implies it) you have Cad&the Dandy which is very affordable full bespoke (as far as bespoke can ever be affordable...). Fraid I can't recommend any MtM in the states.

 

[papado]

I have recently ordered, and had to return, suits or trousers from Suit Supply, Spier and Mackay (contemporary fit), and Hickey Freeman (Modern Fit) because they were too slim in the thighs and seat. My waist is 35" or 35.5", and even size 38 trousers in those brands are too slim. Extra points if the line carries pants in summer weight wool. Could any of you recommend a brand or fit line of flat-fronted trousers that may work better for me? My first thought was Brooks Brothers' Madison line (although some of those have pleats).

Can you provide any other body measurements for reference (hips/seat; quads/calves, etc)? I have a somewhat athletic build (tennis player so my hips/quads/calves are larger than typical) and I can barely fit into the SuitSupply Braddon model and when I used to do suits from them MTM I had to do trousers like 3 sizes up then taper down, so I understand your struggle!

I've found the Rota higher rise trousers from NMWA to be a really good fit for me in my standard size (IT52=~US36). They have a nice rise and solid block pattern; depending on your build you may need to order up a size but I think it should be what you're after.

 

[bicycleradical]

I have recently ordered, and had to return, suits or trousers from Suit Supply, Spier and Mackay (contemporary fit), and Hickey Freeman (Modern Fit) because they were too slim in the thighs and seat. My waist is 35" or 35.5", and even size 38 trousers in those brands are too slim. Extra points if the line carries pants in summer weight wool. Could any of you recommend a brand or fit line of flat-fronted trousers that may work better for me? My first thought was Brooks Brothers' Madison line (although some of those have pleats).

My legs were described as 'tree trunks' by a muaythai instructor of mine a while ago and I am in the same boat. Recently, I bought a pair of tropical wool trousers from J. Press that were a much fuller cut than most trousers I own. They are a bit 'flowy' so there's that to consider however they are not in the least bit slim. They may be worth considering for your needs.

 

[BPL Esq]

I've had this issue and found that O'Connell's trousers fit great.