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Trouser rise and pleat vs plain.

Vizard

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For the longest time, I have worn flat fronted trousers and a relatively low waistband. It is what has been for sale RTW and what tailors have automatically tended towards. I have four suits in production, all of them in that style. I am quite stocky and I think it suits me.

However, I am seeing more higher waistband / single pleat trousers from some RTW makers and on tailors themselves.

Is the higher rise / single pleat look a fashion thing or is there going to be a return to higher waistbands and pleats?
 

Phileas Fogg

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For the longest time, I have worn flat fronted trousers and a relatively low waistband. It is what has been for sale RTW and what tailors have automatically tended towards. I have four suits in production, all of them in that style. I am quite stocky and I think it suits me.

However, I am seeing more higher waistband / single pleat trousers from some RTW makers and on tailors themselves.

Is the higher rise / single pleat look a fashion thing or is there going to be a return to higher waistbands and pleats?
Both have existed side by side for quite a while though in terms of what is en Vogue, that’s gone back and forth. In the 80’s, the baggier, deep pleats look was in thanks to Armani.

I like both. Whatever style, I prefer a regular rise (natural waist as opposed to the lower rise). Certainly with a suit as a lower rise would look really, really odd.
 

nubirth

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The low rise is for out of shape profiles and blue jeans.
 

Vizard

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Both have existed side by side for quite a while though in terms of what is en Vogue, that’s gone back and forth. In the 80’s, the baggier, deep pleats look was in thanks to Armani.

I like both. Whatever style, I prefer a regular rise (natural waist as opposed to the lower rise). Certainly with a suit as a lower rise would look really, really odd.
Well, one's natural waist is above the belly button typically. What I am referring to is probably 2 inches below. My tailors are on Savile Row (I use three tailors there) and I really hope they wouldn't allow me to leave with odd looking suits!
 
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Single pleat for suits, always. Casual pants - single or double pleat (your choice) or plain front. They all work if you are in good shape and not overweight. And know how to put a "look" together.

Pleats have a slimming effect if you have purchased the right size.
 

Phileas Fogg

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My tailors are on Savile Row (I use three tailors there) and I really hope they wouldn't allow me to leave with odd looking suits!
I can’t claim to know too much about SR tailors or specifically yours, but good communication with your tailor is key to preventing this from happening.
 

Vizard

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I am quite confident that my tailors know what they are doing. Flat fronts and a lower rise have been fairly standard in the UK for some time. My question really was what the opinion here was regarding whether waistbands will rise and pleats become more common.

Given that there is a strong US contingent here, and that I think US cuts tend to differ from the UK (pleats more popular), I am not sure whether here was the ideal place to ask the question.
 

nubirth

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Wear what you like and what is flattering on you.
 

dieworkwear

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The general idea here is to wear what's flattering on you, rather than follow trends.

Generally speaking, when you wear a tailored jacket, you want the waistband to be a little higher on the body so that it doesn't result in a "shirt triangle" below your buttoning point. Meaning, when you wear your coat fastened, you shouldn't be able to see your shirt below the fastened button.

I don't mind wearing lower rise trousers with casualwear, but prefer a higher rise with tailored clothing for the reason just stated. As the rise goes up, I also prefer pleats. I find that pleats help visually break up the expanse of fabric that takes up your lap.

I also think the cut of the trousers should work in concert with your jacket. Think about how the two intersect to create a coherent silhouette. I like drape cut jackets, and think that pleated trousers look more coherent with that style of jacket. That said, I know many men who are very well dressed and wear the same type of jacket with flat fronts.

Some dress traditions will dictate how you should style the trousers, depending on how you're trying to look. A very Modish suit will call for flat fronts.

Instead of thinking about whether higher rises or pleats are "in" or "out," I would think about various dress traditions, the look you're trying to portray, and what works best for your personality and body type.
 

Despos

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Have never decided on the trouser height in relation to one's navel. Waistband seam should rest just on/above the hip bone. That's my reference point. This helps the trouser to stay fixed at the waist.
 

Vizard

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Have never decided on the trouser height in relation to one's navel. Waistband seam should rest just on/above the hip bone. That's my reference point. This helps the trouser to stay fixed at the waist.
That's how all my trousers are made. My observation was that I am seeing more that are being made with a height nearer the natural waist.
 

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