Trouser recommendation

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tdial, Mar 2, 2005.

  1. tdial

    tdial Senior member

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    Esteemed colleagues of the SF Fora,

    It is that time of year where I have once again taken a hard, critical look at my closet. This year, I have determined that I am severely lacking variety in the dress trouser department (I also am lacking in the odd jacket department, but that'll be a 3 year plan to cover that issue).

    I feel that I am 3 pairs of nice dress trousers away from being satisfied with the variety and depth of my working inventory. I am looking for something that will be flexible to wear with an assortment of shirt patterns (I usually like to wear patterned shirts, rather than patterned trousers). I am not opposed to something a little funky, but more conservative patterns would be best.

    I am looking to spend no more than $300 on each pair.

    Do you all have any suggestions? In my closet now are Purple Label (1 pair, somewhat slim fitting), Zanella (1 pair), Incotex (1 pair), Brooks Brothers (2 pairs), Borrelli (1 pair), and Zegna (1 pair). I like certain things about all, but will be looking to probably buy the same manufacturer/brand for this new purchase.

    Thank you for the help/suggestions.
     
  2. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Senior member

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    T Dial, Not clear whether you're looking for alternatives as to fabrics, colors or manufacturers. Although like you I have Incotex and Purple Label, IMO, the best made trousers I have are from Oxxford and the best fabrics are found in my Luciano Barbera trousers. Edit: Link to prior SF discussion on trouser quality: http://<a href="http://66.170.193.77......d+pants</a>
     
  3. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    Sounds as if you have a great lineup already.  I think BB odd trousers are extremely underrated.  I have about 5 different pairs and I wear them very hard and I am very pleased with them.  You can find them for well under $200 during their semi-annual sales.  Beyond BB, Incotex makes great trousers, although I find the rise to be a little too high.  RLPL makes a nice trim fitting pair and is more luxurious than the BBs.  I am not familiar with Borreli trousers.  I think Zegnas are very ordinary and overpriced.  I would rate Zanella above Zegna.  

    If you want to break your budget, check out Oxxford, which may make the best RTW trouser on the market.  But check to see if the Oxxford styling suits you.  the fit is extremely full (baggy even).  you should definitely also try Barbera, which makes the best trouser among the italians in my opinion.  Also Check out Valentini, which is sold at Bergdorfs in NY. Full retail is below $300 for most pairs and the quality seems to rival Incotex. I have also been very happy with my Brioni trousers, but I wear them only on special occasions.  For workhorse trousers, i recommend BB, Hickey (although they have a very full cut), Polo, and RLPL.
     
  4. tdial

    tdial Senior member

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    I thought my post might be too vague.

    First, a Manufacturer/brand recommendation.

    Second (and ancillary) would be a certain understated style you all like, etc.

    Like most of you, I am looking for durability, construction, and fit above all else.

    Oxxford and Barbera are likely out of my $300/pair range.
     
  5. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Senior member

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    Here's a discussion about Valentini:http://<a href="http://66.170.193.77......lentini</a>that Bry2000 recommends.If you're looking to buy retail for less than $300 (instead of EBay, where no wool trousers will likely exceed $300), you might look at the Bergdorf house brand (some were made by St. Andrews in the past and am guessing that they're now made by Cantarelli). If you're in Atlanta, I'd guess that you'd be better off with seasonless super wool fabrics in gray, tan and taupe instead of flannels and heavy cavalry twills. I personally like twills because of the texture-many of my sportjackets and shirts also have texture. As to cut, I'll wear both the fuller cut Oxxfords and the leaner RLPL plain front. Borrelli is too narrow for me.
     
  6. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    If you like a full cut pair, check out Hickey, Oxxford, and perhaps Polo Blue Label. the oxxford is so full cut that I have a 35/36 waist, but even the size 34 trousers are still too full in the leg. BB strikes me as an in between cut. If you want a trim fit, check out Valentini, RLPL, Borrelli (based on the above post), and probably Barba. Incotex is fairly full, while Zanella has several different models. I really think the Valentinis are worth looking at. I suspect that Valentini private labels to some bigger labels. I do not know for sure, but I suspect that the bright cords found at Turnbull are made by Valentini. And I suspect that Valentini private labels for Jay Kos in NY, but I am just guessing.

    If I had to choose one pair from the above list, I would choose the Barbera. Second choice would be Valentini. Third choice RLPL. Keep in mind, that the Barberas and RLPLs will break your budget at full retail. My first choice for hard wearing trousers that I am happy to travel with, dry clean as necessary, and work in would be those offered by Brooks Brothers.

    as a sidenote, I would consider checking out J Press' trousers. J Press only offers flat front styling and seems hard wearing. But I don't want this to turn into one of those tedious, repetitive Am Trad threads.
     

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