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Trouser fork/jacket armhole size question

Alias

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How low/large are these supposed to be? I hear of ready-made manufacturers making the trouser forks low and armholes large to facilitate fitting on various body shapes and sizes, but as for bespoke tailoring, how are these supposed to fit?
 

Alias

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Come on, dudes. I know we have some people knowledgable in tailoring on this forum.
 

banksmiranda

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I've never had a true bespoke experience, but since no one else has responded I'll take a shot. Among the "hallmarks" of bespoke tailoring are a high(and often small) armhole, sometimes a tapered sleeve. Pants vary widely, from baggy, almost zoot-suit style to closely fitting. As you said, manufacturers often make low, large armholes and low trouser forks to fit a wider range of people, but for bespoke they should be able to make a garment as best fits the individual. They should be able to place the armhole as fits the person, size the armhole accordingly, and maybe taper or fit the sleeve to fit the person's arm.
I like low forks on my jeans. But I like my dress pants not to be ridiculously baggy but also not uncomfortably tight.
 

Alias

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I'm wondering whether or not bespoke armholes are supposed to reach to your armpits to facilitate movement, if they're even that high. I'm wondering this because the tailor here likes sewing armholes on the largish side, and I had to tell him to make it a bit smaller. I'd like it smaller still, and I'm wondering just what the threshold is before I cut off circulation from my shoulder. I guess it varies from tailor to tailor.

Same with the pants; I'd like something thinner and less restrictive, and I read that having a higher trouser fork facilitates easy movement.
 

banksmiranda

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I personally feel that a higher trouser fork somewhat facilitates movement since the fabric is generally not very elastic/stretchy.
 

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