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Trouser cuff/turn-up question

DAK

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Recently on Permanent Style I came across this comment from SC about finishing a pair of unhemmed trousers: "I wanted them finished with a 5cm turn-up, and after ascertaining that there was enough cloth to do this the proper way (doubled over on the outside, then tucked inside) ...." (https://www.permanentstyle.com/2020/01/pinnas-needles-alterations.html?mc_cid=4a40d52827&mc_eid=882ca2dca5)

I'm not sure if I'm understanding this, but I didn't think there were various methods of adding cuffs to pants -- aside from picking different widths for the cuff. I think all the pants I have with cuffs are turned up 1x then sewn , not doubled over and tucked inside. Can someone help me out here?
 

Despos

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Think the language used is misleading. The corduroy trouser is finished in a conventional way. Outlet turned up and sewn, cuff turned up and tacked. His comment about the overlock stitching (serging stitch done on a serging machine) keeps the finish of the hem looking like the outlet seams which are also serged. Some tailors put a cross stitch over the unfinished edge to contain the raveling if they don't use a serging machine.
Some shops turn the raw edge under at the edge of the hem so what you see is a folded edge on the hem. Too bulky to do this on a heavy cloth.
End of this week I am hemming a cuff with an alternate method. The outlet is finished between the cuff and the trouser leg and there is no visible outlet on the inside of the trouser leg. Will come back to this thread and post a picture.
 
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Despos

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Yeah, like that.
 

breakaway01

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End of this week I am hemming a cuff with an alternate method. The outlet is finished between the cuff and the trouser leg and there is no visible outlet on the inside of the trouser leg. Will come back to this thread and post a picture.
Maybe I'm picturing this incorrectly, but won't you end up with the reverse side of the fabric and the inside of the trouser seam visible on the outside of the cuff? I'm sure the picture will explain all.
 
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Despos

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Cuff looks the same as any other on the outside. You won’t see the hem anywhere, it will be hidden. This is how I learned to cuff trousers when I was an apprentice. Trying to impress a client a long time ago and made his cuffs this way. He liked it and insists on this method. Finishing a new trouser for him this week and will post a picture after they are hemmed.
 
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DAK

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I will look forward to those pictures too.
 

Despos

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crispy, You are close but overshot the mark.
Pull line 3 back and tuck it up between the middle line and the far right line (between the two short lines; the outlines of the cuff) and you have it figured out.
 
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Despos

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I will look forward to those pictures too.
Mr. DAK, you will have to look forward to it because it is in the future! Welcome to style forum and enjoy your stay here!
 

Despos

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Cuffs are made; here are a few pictures illustrating the hidden hem.
Inside of the leg at the opening
1323754

Interior shot of the hem
1323755

Below is a picture of the Cuff. Not sure if it shows, but the cuff is angled downward from front to back. One inch longer in back than the front. See, it can be done!
1323756

This is how we reinforce the crotch area to slow down or stop wearing thru in the thigh.
1323757

Outside, we add another layer of the cloth and try to match the grain line so it is less obvious.
We use pocketing fabric on the inside.
1323758

Do both inside and out because it's hard to discern which direction they wear thru. If you have this issue this helps a lot. If the pocketing or the external cloth wears thru; you can change it before it effects the actual trouser cloth.
 

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