Trouser Break Feedback

[PSNY]

Any idea what is the causing the break at the front? These are bespoke, quite wrinkled, and made of a heavy Irish linen from the Drapers Portofino book. I had recently worn these and noticed it more. Is it a pressing issue, rise, or length issue? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I also tried them on without a shirt and just a t-shirt, which may be making the waist a little bit thus giving a bit more length.

 

[WoolyLamb]

Any idea what is the causing the break at the front? These are bespoke, quite wrinkled, and made of a heavy Irish linen from the Drapers Portofino book. I had recently worn these and noticed it more. Is it a pressing issue, rise, or length issue? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I also tried them on without a shirt and just a t-shirt, which may be making the waist a little bit thus giving a bit more length.

Is the bottom of the pant leg resting on the top of your foot? perhaps it is tapered just a hair too much at the bottom?
It seems to be following your calves quite closely too which to me indicates the tight fit. I have a few skinny jeans/chinos that do this with thicker socks.

 

[breakaway01]

Is the bottom of the pant leg resting on the top of your foot? perhaps it is tapered just a hair too much at the bottom?
It seems to be following your calves quite closely too which to me indicates the tight fit. I have a few skinny jeans/chinos that do this with thicker socks.

Agree, I also suspect this is due to trousers being a little too heavily tapered and narrow at the hem opening. If it bothers you, you may have to shorten the legs slightly (I wouldn’t bother personally). Doubt it’s a pressing issue but you can figure this out pretty quickly by pressing the legs yourself.

 

[Stylewords]

Yes, too tapered.

 

[PSNY]

The hem is 7.5” on these I am going 7.87” which is 20cm on the next pair, but am contemplating 8” which is 20.1cm”. What are thoughts on 8” versus 7.87”, small difference but seems noticeable .

 

[JohnMRobie]

Any idea what is the causing the break at the front? These are bespoke, quite wrinkled, and made of a heavy Irish linen from the Drapers Portofino book. I had recently worn these and noticed it more. Is it a pressing issue, rise, or length issue? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I also tried them on without a shirt and just a t-shirt, which may be making the waist a little bit thus giving a bit more length.

Would ask your trouser maker as they can probably provide the most clarity, know your body and may remember if they were like that for your fittings and at the delivery appointment.

Re: your later questions about hem opening those look pretty tapered and like they may be catching on your calf? If that’s the case, I sometimes have similar issues on trousers where it catches on my calf and collapses on my shin. I’ve found I have had luck by utilizing a military hem (longer in the back and angled to be shorter in the front), a less tapered leg and wider hem, and pressing a bit of an S shape into the trousers from the knee. Some makers can cut trousers in that shape as well to help - I know Mola uses it quite often for the Japanese market where they value the clean lines.

 

[Despos]

Do you have any trousers wider than 7.5"?
Go with 8" or more. Easy to reduce to make more narrow if you think they are too wide. Not optimal to have to let out to make them wider. If you want to experiment with 1 trouser instead of multiple orders, start at 8.5'/17" opening to visually see how they drape and fall on the shoe. Reduce the width if you don't like it. Don't do this with a linen cloth. Use your favorite weight of wool. Not cotton or corduroy either.
Consider the character of the cloth too. They all drape and tailor differently. Not all your trousers will drape the same if they are different types, weaves and weights.
Heavy linen doesn't shrink, respond to iron work or drape like other weights/weaves of linen or wool cloth.

 

[PSNY]

Very good feedback sir thank you. Is it customary that when one likes say 8" for the opening they make all their trousers this way short of chinos or jeans? Even tailored jeans and chinos seem like 8" would be optimal as they're inherently more dressy then a regular RTW "skinny" jeans to be worn with sneakers. Next pair will be flannel and will definitely go for 8".

 

[Despos]

Very good feedback sir thank you. Is it customary that when one likes say 8" for the opening they make all their trousers this way short of chinos or jeans? Even tailored jeans and chinos seem like 8" would be optimal as they're inherently more dressy then a regular RTW "skinny" jeans to be worn with sneakers. Next pair will be flannel and will definitely go for 8".

Might go wider for flannel as it can be clingy

My Clients preferences/behaviour are different than what I read here. They want silhouettes/proportions that flatter their physique and don't deviate from this. Most make everything the same as a signature look.
Most narrow tailored trouser we have made was 7.75" for a very trim/fit gentleman. Seldom make anything under 8". Majority is 8" to 9" opening, Sometimes wider for very large body types.
Have made 5 pocket trousers with 7" to 7.5" opening.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Majority is 8" to 9" opening, Sometimes wider for very large body types.

 

[PSNY]

What sort of physique would you say makes up the bulk of your clients? I guess it would be diverse, younger fit, athletic, etc, older with a mix of fit and average.