• We would like to welcome Pete and Harry as an official Affiliate Vendor. Pete and Harry, co-founded by Erik (EFV) one of our long time members and friends, offers a wide variety of products, clothes, watches and accessories, antique, vintage, “pre-loved” and new - all at unparalleled prices. Please visit their new thread and give them a warm welcome.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Trouser break and cuffs for shorter man?

josepidal

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
2,095
Reaction score
52
Aren't pleats contradictory to emphasizing vertical lines? I mean.. the cress does constitute a vertical line however the whole hip area becomes somehow baboonish...isn't that inferior to say a slim straight cut without pleats?
Is it right that if they are reverse pleats, they wouldn't cause the hip/thigh to balloon and could reinforce the vertical line of the crease?
 

artyom.le.gall

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Messages
50
Reaction score
22
Is it right that if they are reverse pleats, they wouldn't cause the hip/thigh to balloon and could reinforce the vertical line of the crease?
You just taught me, very subtly, there’s 2 types of pleats. Thank you! Now, i don’t recall any of the MTM im familiar with calling out the pleat type. Now..looking for further education.. I stumbled on this article which IMHO is written wonderfully. And as extra bonus I also found the site intriguing as I do enjoy weightlifting. Who knows..maybe I’ll change my mind :)
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,014
Reaction score
4,088
In general, if you’re not that tall, you’ll find that most tailors will recommend reducing horizontal lines especially in suits, that additional ticket pockets and the like and will recommend anything that emphasizes vertical lines, i.e. trouser pleats, stripes, narrow lapels, hacking pockets on the suit jacket, notch lapels rather than peak lapels, etc. Personally, I agree with the aforementioned statements that a trouser cuff is perfectly acceptable irrespective of height, although you may find that cuff-less trousers will visually stretch you just a bit more.
Broadening the chest and shoulder while minimizing the waist and hip elongates the look more than anything you listed. The silhouette does more and overrides other details to emphasize a vertical line.
Wrote the same thing earlier in this thread about the effect silhouette has on emphasizing a vertical line of the trouser. Same principle for a trouser or a jacket.
 
Last edited:

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,014
Reaction score
4,088
Also seeking @Despos experience and advise! :) Aren't pleats contradictory to emphasizing vertical lines? I mean.. the cress does constitute a vertical line however the whole hip area becomes somehow baboonish...isn't that inferior to say a slim straight cut without pleats? it will be less comfortable pockets wise and/or maybe the pockets becomes unusable which will impact Italian looks with the jacket..but still if the idea is to give a taller figure impression.. what do you think ?
Is it right that if they are reverse pleats, they wouldn't cause the hip/thigh to balloon and could reinforce the vertical line of the crease?
Pleated trousers we make have a very flat hip and no balloon like effect on the hip. When you see that fullness around the seat/hip, it's an indication of an imbalanced trouser pattern. It's using a trouser pattern that isn't meant for your body type or just a poorly devised pattern.
I cut pleated trousers with a slightly higher rise than a plain front.
Regular, forward pleats work better with an even higher rise and small hip figure. Reverse pleats work well for any body type and can help camouflage a big belly.
 
Last edited:

josepidal

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
Messages
2,095
Reaction score
52
Regular, forward pleats work better with an even higher rise and small hip figure.
Incredible responses sifu.

Roughly how high do you mean by "even higher rise"? Is the belly button high enough?
 

lexxdeleon

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
272
Reaction score
254
I'm a slim 5'7" and have experimented with various cuff sizes, but find I keep going back to 2 inches with no break when wearing loafers which is the footwear I spend most my time in.

I've tried a 1" short cuff with more casual cotton trousers/chino's and I do kinda like that on very casual pieces. This is something I don't do often though.

On the other end of the spectrum I've tried around a 2 1/4" cuff. I thought this worked out fine, works better if the higher rise trouser also has a taller waistband and your jacket has a wider lapel or taller flap pockets. Those details would help keep the proportions of everything in line.

For some reason I don't like 1.5" cuffs, I much prefer 1.75". I think it's because it reminds of my old low-ish rise, baggy dockers I use to wear in high school and the hem was probably two inches too long.

I do forego the cuff on some flat front trousers, I typically will give those a little break. At the end of the day we're talking about 1/4-1/2 inch in difference and 99% of people won't notice the difference, so try some different things and see what you proportions you like that best.

Here's a photo for reference on my 2 inch cuffs.

1626802711788.png
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Sneakers with tailoring: yes, no, maybe?

  • No, never.

  • Yes, it can be done tastefully.

  • Not sure.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
464,609
Messages
10,035,582
Members
209,579
Latest member
acutrack15
Top