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tropical/high twist wool good for workhorse suit?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by boston, Feb 11, 2005.

  1. boston

    boston Senior Member

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    Hello all:

    I'm having a MTM suit put together in a couple of weeks (full canvas etc) and I need it to be my standard workhorse, charcoal grey suit. I spend a lot of time in planes, and don't have a lot of other suits, so I need something that sheds creases well, is flexible in lots of different situations, and is basically the basic wardrobe workhorse.

    If possible, I also hope to wear the jacket alone on occassion, although if it looks too suit-like I may need to skip that idea. The additional flexibility is nice, but this needs to be a no-nonsense suit first and foremost.

    Charcoal worsted seems like the best choice, but what weight should I get the material in? I am intrigued by Hackett's high-twist travel suit, so am considering something high-twist or in a tropical wool. I know it has a dry hand and may look a little strange with full canvas construction, but I was hoping it would also last a long time.

    Hackett has also released a medium weight travel suit in super 120 marino. I don't plan on buying anything from Hackett, but maybe this heavier wool will be better looking, wearing, and flexible than the tropical/high twist wool.

    What do people think? Your workhorse charcoal worsted suit for travel -- high twist/tropical or medium weight?

    -boston
     


  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    Depends on where you are travelling IMO. Do you live in Boston? If so, go 11 or 12 oz. IMO.
     


  3. boston

    boston Senior Member

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    I do live in boston, but travel all over. 11-12 oz was what i was thinking for a medium weight.

    -boston
     


  4. joseanes

    joseanes Senior Member

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    What tailor/company will be doing the suit?

    (I live in Boston, and I am looking to buy a "workhorse" MTM suit also).
     


  5. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    Go to Rizzo in Harvard Sq. for bespoke. Go to Zarah for Oxxford MTM (better prices than Neimans, I'd think). Louis has Oxxford bespoke still, I think.
     


  6. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Both of these on the Hackett website look like good options. High-twist cloth (such as a fresco) is deceptively light and cool, and sheds wrinkles like nothing else. 12 oz fresco can look pretty coarse, however. I did see one medium-grey chalk stripe that looked like flannel from a distance. Only up close did it show the holes that made it breathe so well.

    To be considered, however: high-twist cloth might get a little shiny through wear, especially in the light weight. So you're going to need a replacement in a couple of years, or might also need an alternate to prolong useful life.

    Which is another way of saying, get one of each if you can. If this is really the workhorse, you'll need backup in case of coffee stains, repairs, getting stuck in the rain, or what have you. And the right summer suit will feel very chilly in the winter.
     


  7. boston

    boston Senior Member

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    Thanks for the good advice.

    I'm actually not going to get it made in Boston -- I'm going to get it made in Baltimore. But it is interesting to learn that Rizzo offers bespoke services. I've walked by that shop hundreds of times, but never gone into it. I'll have to stop by -- is it recommended?

    As for what I end up getting, I guess I'll see what's on offer. I'll try and post something once it's done though.

    -boston
     


  8. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    I highly recommend Rizzo -- great prices (from $1100 to $2200 depending on fabric, with nice Loro Pianas starting at $1500 or so) . They guy has a great eye, and his hand stitching is impeccable. I can't speak to his cutting skills, since I've never seen any of his jackets on the actual client -- that is, except for seeing John Kerry at the debates and such.
     


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