Topy/Vibram half sole + toe taps

[ACLC]

I have some Vass shoes with original toe taps on leather soles. Can I still get a topy/vibram half sole installed whilst keeping the original toe taps?

Also, on another pair of leather soles shoes, if I get a rubber half sole and Toe taps installed, is it possible to get the half sole replaced at a later date? Will I need to get both toe tap and half sole replaced together even if it is only the half sole that needs replacing?

Appreciate all your advice!

 

[daizawaguy]

In order to grind the leather down to get the half rubber to fit, the toe plate would need to be removed, and maybe reused. It all depends on the skill of the cobbler, and his finish level. Half sole can always be replaced, and at the same time the steel cap, for the reasons above. There is a school of thought though that questions whether a steel toe on a rubber is really necessary, or if its just esthetic. Steel on leather yes (it keep the front from wearing down), but as thats the point of the rubber, why have the steel!? For me, having both is an esthetic overkill, but then why not!

 

[ACLC]

Thanks Daizawaguy! Much appreciated

 

[Nick V.]

I have some Vass shoes with original toe taps on leather soles. Can I still get a topy/vibram half sole installed whilst keeping the original toe taps?

Also, on another pair of leather soles shoes, if I get a rubber half sole and Toe taps installed, is it possible to get the half sole replaced at a later date? Will I need to get both toe tap and half sole replaced together even if it is only the half sole that needs replacing?

Appreciate all your advice!

Once the toe plates are installed you cannot add a sole guard. However, if sole guards are applied you can always add toe plates later. The reason for this is in order to apply toe plates the toe area needs to be sanded down to the thickness of the toe plates. This way, when the job is completed the sole guard and toe plate will be flush with each other. If you try and add a sole guard to a shoe that already has toe plates you will wind up with an edge the thickness of the sole guard. That can cause you to trip over the edge.
Yes, it's possible to replace the sole guard without having to replace the toe plate.
Some think it's overkill to do both. IMO it's not. It's just optimum preventive maintenance.

 

[ACLC]

Once the toe plates are installed you cannot add a sole guard. However, if sole guards are applied you can always add toe plates later. The reason for this is in order to apply toe plates the toe area needs to be sanded down to the thickness of the toe plates. This way, when the job is completed the sole guard and toe plate will be flush with each other. If you try and add a sole guard to a shoe that already has toe plates you will wind up with an edge the thickness of the sole guard. That can cause you to trip over the edge.
Yes, it's possible to replace the sole guard without having to replace the toe plate.
Some think it's overkill to do both. IMO it's not. It's just optimum preventive maintenance.

Thanks, Nick. My Vass shoes have the outsole welt stitching tucked under a thin layer of the sole leather so that the stitching is not visible (forgive me if I’m getting the terminology wrong). I’ve read that over time this thin layer of leather covering the stitching will wear out relatively fast and expose the stitching underneath.

Is there anything you would suggest to protect this as my shoes came pre installed with the toe taps without a rubber half sole so installing a vibram half sole is not an option as you suggested?

 

[Nick V.]

Thanks, Nick. My Vass shoes have the outsole welt stitching tucked under a thin layer of the sole leather so that the stitching is not visible (forgive me if I’m getting the terminology wrong). I’ve read that over time this thin layer of leather covering the stitching will wear out relatively fast and expose the stitching underneath.

Is there anything you would suggest to protect this as my shoes came pre installed with the toe taps without a rubber half sole so installing a vibram half sole is not an option as you suggested?

You are referring to a "blind" or "hidden" stitch. A thin layer of the sole is carved around the perimeter that flap is folded backwards. The sole then gets a channel grooved into it. The sole gets stitched to the shoe with the stitches lying in the groove. The flap is cemented and put back into place.
Pros:
Cosmetically it's a more refined finish on a new shoe.
Some say that that thin layer of leather will prevent dirt and grime from getting to the stitches. They claim the dirt and grime may cause the stitches to get cut.
Personally, I think that's a week theory. Soles are stitched using a lock stitch. That means each stitch is independent of each other. So, if a stitch or two gets damaged that does not mean the neighboring stitches will be affected.
Cons:
It's true that generally the thin flap wears quickly. It normally wears at the toe first. In your case no need to worry as you already have the toe plates. Eventually the flap will wear through either on the outside or inside of the sole lateral to the ball of your foot.
Again, since the sole is lock stitched exposing the threads is not a big deal. What is likely to happen is where the flap wore out the edge of the flap may begin to roll back.
Not much you can do at this point. Just enjoy wearing your shoes.
When they need a sole ask that sole guards are installed along with metal toe plates.

 

[Jacko1235]

Vass actually have closed channel soles. Thanks for the information Nick, I didn't realise that you couldn't retrofit a shoe with a sole protector once a toe tap had been installed. Vass shoes use JR soles so they should last a very long time regardless.

 

[Professor Χάος]

You are referring to a "blind" or "hidden" stitch. A thin layer of the sole is carved around the perimeter that flap is folded backwards. The sole then gets a channel grooved into it. The sole gets stitched to the shoe with the stitches lying in the groove. The flap is cemented and put back into place.
Pros:
Cosmetically it's a more refined finish on a new shoe.
Some say that that thin layer of leather will prevent dirt and grime from getting to the stitches. They claim the dirt and grime may cause the stitches to get cut.
Personally, I think that's a week theory. Soles are stitched using a lock stitch. That means each stitch is independent of each other. So, if a stitch or two gets damaged that does not mean the neighboring stitches will be affected.
Cons:
It's true that generally the thin flap wears quickly. It normally wears at the toe first. In your case no need to worry as you already have the toe plates. Eventually the flap will wear through either on the outside or inside of the sole lateral to the ball of your foot.
Again, since the sole is lock stitched exposing the threads is not a big deal. What is likely to happen is where the flap wore out the edge of the flap may begin to roll back.
Not much you can do at this point. Just enjoy wearing your shoes.
When they need a sole ask that sole guards are installed along with metal toe plates.

Hi Nick. I just bought a pair of Santoni boots, but I'm concerned that the grooves on the rubber sole are insufficiently corugated for heavy winters. Would it be wise to ask a shoemaker or cobbler to carve some grooves into the rubber soles?