Topstitched lapels

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by j, Nov 15, 2004.

  1. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    I found a Southwick suit on Saturday that I considered buying, but I found a small spot on it. However, I was noting the topstitched lapels. This was a lightweight worsted tan wool suit, very well constructed with padstiched lapels and full canvas front. My question is to the topstitching. For the most part, I have found this on cheesy poly-blend 70s suits, but occasionally on very nice suits like this one. Is this acceptable, dated, classic, or what? Would I be arrested by the style police for wearing one of these?

    To my eye, it looked fine. Just wondering as it is rather rare. Thanks.
     


  2. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    C'mon, even Manton has nothing to say on this topic? I know in the grand scheme of things it's not that important, but still, I'd like to know.
     


  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    If it's done by hand it can be very nice looking, but it is far from subtle -- especially on a tan suit. Interesting that Southwick made it. I always think of light colored, ostentatiously stitched coats like that as characteristic of Southern Italy or Southern California, not a Massachusetts trad stalwart like Southwick.
     


  4. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    I didn't consider it too ostentatious. Now that I think about it, in fact, I have seen very similiar topstitching on many blue blazers. Next time I am at that shop I will check it more carefully, but I doubt it was handstitched.

    Thanks for the response.
     


  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Machine top-stitching is more likely, given that it's Southwick. Personally, I think it looks too uniform and regular to be elegant.
     


  6. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    BTW, I notice now I didn't mention that it was stitched away from the edge, maybe 3/8" or so, not right at the edge as I've seen done on other suits. But I agree, if at all acceptable it definitely relegates the suit to casual duty only.
     


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Usually, but not always, top stitching is done 1/4" to 3/8" from the edge. This is even more common with machine top stitching. Not universal, but very, very common.
     


  8. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I was going to post a similar query today and found this thread. I've noticed a few suits recently with this detail and had the same thought as j. I thought this topstitch detail was reserved for sportcoats with heavier fabric or 70s suits with patch pockets. But, I noticed this suit from Dolce & Gabbana that sported the stitch. Might be hard to see in this photo, but it's about 1/4 inch from the lapel edge. The stitches are also quite far apart from each other making a more pronounced "dotted line". Is this a structural stitch or simply decoration? It has a more casual flair, but I think it looks kind of nice in the heather gray. I think the stitch runs all the way down the front of the jacket to the bottom of the skirt. I don't think the fashion police would run one out of town for donning this. At least not this season. [​IMG]
     


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