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Top Coat Collar

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by LRS, Nov 21, 2010.

  1. LRS

    LRS Member

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    I have been searching a while now for the perfect wool top coat, but just can't find one with all the right details that fits how I want it too. I've decided to have the coat custom made but have a few questions for you guys first before I invest in said operation. To give you a few details of what I plan on doing:
    Single breasted
    3 buttons
    Grey or navy (any recommendations?)
    Three flap pockets and one chest (the third flap = ticket pocket)
    I want it to fit essentially exactly like the one in this video. I love how the lapel isn't too wide and comes down to just above the top suit button, and how the lapel is soft, rolling away from the top button not heavily creased. Before anyone says, "why don't you just go to JCrew?" I am in South Korea and thousands of miles away from JCrew. Also, I am too skinny for JCrew to achieve the fit I'm looking for without having it heavily altered.
    If you notice in the video when Jim Moore pops the coat's collar, there is another fabric on the underside. My first question is what fabric should I have put there? I'm thinking about suede as I feel it it will help the collar stand up when popped on especially cold days, as well as add a nice stylish touch. Is suede a food choice? Is there another more suitable fabric?
    Second question, should the rear vent (I'm going single of course) start at my belt line or just above/below? Or should it be a bit lower?
    I won't be wearing a suit with the coat as I don't now, and likely will not in my future career need to wear a suit often, but with nice pants, a shirt, and the occaisonal tie. I also love the look in the this video and will likely turn to something similar on the weekend.
    Thanks for all your input!
     


  2. greger

    greger Senior member

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    Shouldn't be a problem for a tailor to do that.

    The hem of the coat the coat should be a couple of inches above or below the knee.
     


  3. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Aren't Korean winters COLD?
     


  4. LRS

    LRS Member

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    Yes that why I'm looking for a topcoat
     


  5. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I have a hard time imagining that a tailor is going to take kindly to a customer telling him what to use for an undercollar. That's typically considered part of the "guts" of a coat and the tailor's purview.
     


  6. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Yes that why I'm looking for a topcoat

    Problem is it doesn't sound to me like you're making a coat for cold weather. Many of the things you want will make the coat less suited to really cold winters.

    A cold weather coat is big enough to layer underneath.

    It doesn't leave any bare skin. So double breasted is better then single. Or at least a single that buttons higher up.
     


  7. wsblend

    wsblend Well-Known Member

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    ^ What Nicola said. You need something that will allow the lapels to be folded inside-out so they can completely cover the top of your chest, with one lapel having a button on its inside and the other having a button hole, so you can button them shut. See how this peacoat has its lapel folded over the top of the chest? You want that, but single-breasted. Or at least, I want that, and you'll want that too when it's cold and your body is losing its heat because your uncovered chest is exhausting your body's heat. This is the very reason why I rejected this coat, even though it otherwise fit so well. The lapels on it were just child-sized. Oh yeah, the primary difference between a topcoat and an overcoat is weight, with the former being lighter and the latter being heavier. That's what it said in Esquire Handbook of Style, anyway.
     


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