I have been searching a while now for the perfect wool top coat, but just can't find one with all the right details that fits how I want it too. I've decided to have the coat custom made but have a few questions for you guys first before I invest in said operation. To give you a few details of what I plan on doing: Single breasted 3 buttons Grey or navy (any recommendations?) Three flap pockets and one chest (the third flap = ticket pocket) I want it to fit essentially exactly like the one in this video. I love how the lapel isn't too wide and comes down to just above the top suit button, and how the lapel is soft, rolling away from the top button not heavily creased. Before anyone says, "why don't you just go to JCrew?" I am in South Korea and thousands of miles away from JCrew. Also, I am too skinny for JCrew to achieve the fit I'm looking for without having it heavily altered. If you notice in the video when Jim Moore pops the coat's collar, there is another fabric on the underside. My first question is what fabric should I have put there? I'm thinking about suede as I feel it it will help the collar stand up when popped on especially cold days, as well as add a nice stylish touch. Is suede a food choice? Is there another more suitable fabric? Second question, should the rear vent (I'm going single of course) start at my belt line or just above/below? Or should it be a bit lower? I won't be wearing a suit with the coat as I don't now, and likely will not in my future career need to wear a suit often, but with nice pants, a shirt, and the occaisonal tie. I also love the look in the this video and will likely turn to something similar on the weekend. Thanks for all your input!