Top 10 tailors in america

[banksmiranda]

Do any of you have Robb Report's August 2003 issue? I read that this issue has an article titled "Top 10 Tailors in America." Would any of you be able to tell be who the top 10 were(address, phone number, and web site/email if applicable would be appreciated) and a tidbit about each one? I would also like to know what silhouette each of the tailors makes. Also, if any of you have experience with the tailors listed I would like to know what you think. Are all the tailors listed real tailors who do their work in-house or designers/stylists who make a pattern and outsource the work?

 

[matadorpoeta]

sorry banks, can't help you.

 

[banksmiranda]

Thanks for the reply, Matador. It's nice to know that some people are at least reading my post. Anyone?

 

[Steve B.]

I'm sorry for not posting previously. I know of several tailors across the U.S. who come highly recommended. The most famous ranking was done by Bruce Boyer for Town and Country magazine in 1991...If I can find the article, I can post it. At least 10 of them are in my book, but I don't know if I'd be qualified or inclined to rank them.

 

[banksmiranda]

Thanks, Steve. That would be great if you could find that article. I just ordered your book from Amazon...looking forward to reading it.

 

[marc39]

Don't listen to anything Bruce Boyer says. He and other fashion writers have a quid pro quo going where they write glowing articles about "great tailors" and in exchange they receive free suits. The "greatest tailor in the world" Wm. Fioravanti, for instance, is not even a tailor. It's a scam. Most custom "tailors" are not true clasically trained tailors--They're hacks who are only qualified to do alterations.

 

[Alias]

Don't listen to anything Bruce Boyer says.  He and other fashion writers have a quid pro quo going where they write glowing articles about "great tailors" and in exchange they receive free suits.  The "greatest tailor in the world" Wm. Fioravanti, for instance, is not even a tailor.  It's a scam. Most custom "tailors" are not true clasically trained tailors--They're hacks who are only qualified to do alterations.

So what's the difference in price between an overmarketed suit and one you can get from an actual, competent tailor who actually does the work?

 

[marc39]

Price points between some high-end ready-made garments are approaching those of some bespoke tailors. However, given the sheer mediocrity of most so-called tailors, most of whom only take measurements and farm the garment out to a factory, I'd suggest buying one of the better RTM or MTM garments, such as from Oxxford (who manufacture in their own factories), where you can be assured of quality and consistency.

 

[Steve B.]

Hmmm Marc- interesting thoughts on Mr. Fioravanti and Mr. Boyer.

Fioravanti has been written up in countless magazines, the article I remember best was in Esquire March 2001. He was extremely gracious to me when I visited his facility. I SAW the tailors on site making clothing, as I did at most of the other places mentioned in the book. Fioravanti had absolutely no reason or ulterior motive for treating an unknown author as well as he treated me.

Bruce Boyer has written two books in addition to his many articles. I'll be happy to forward your post to him and ask him if what you say is true.

What are YOUR qualifications and/or reasons for making these statements?

 

[cherrytree]

Hi banksmiranda,
The article was in the August 2002 Robb Report issue. The top ten tailors according to RR were:

Joe Centofanti, Philadelphia
Chris Despos, Chicago
William Fioravanti, New York
Christian Garcia, Coral Gables, Fla.
Anthony Gasbarri, Los Angeles
Leonard Logsdail, New York
Manuel Martinez, Baton Rouge, La.
Tony Maurizio, New York
Frank Shattuck, New York
Giacomo Trabalza, Los Angeles

 

[banksmiranda]

Cherrytree, thanks for providing the answer to my question. This is somewhat off the current topic, but how did the Charvet shirts come out?

 

[cherrytree]

My Charvet shirts were surprisingly disappointing. I received my first three, and they fit too tightly around the chest. They also didn't have split yokes nor buttons on the sleeve placket, which I specifically asked to have. I speak fluent French so I know there wasn't a translation issue that caused the mistakes. If I lived in France, I'm sure that I would try to make it work with Charvet, but it's simply too difficult living in the US.

On a positive note, I've discovered Alexander Kabbaz, who I now believe to be the best shirtmaker in the world. He is obsessive about fit and has extraordinary tailoring skills. I have a 10" drop from chest to waist, but he is able to make a shirt snug at my waist, yet well-fitting at my chest, and is able to do this without darts (.). I also very much like his fabric selection which includes some antique (60 year old+) cottons made by David & John Anderson. According to Kabbaz, David & John Anderson were the best cotton fabric makers many years ago, and while the company no longer exists, Thomas Mason uses the label "David & John Anderson" for their top-of-the-line 200 English count yarns. Alex Kabbaz also demonstrated to me how gussets are simply a short cut to avoid a more difficult side seam stitch that he showed me. I've never had shirts come close to fitting as well as his shirts do.

On another positive note, Kabbaz recommended Jon Green to me for bench-made suits, and Green has proven to be my favorite suitmaker by a wide margin. Overall, a lot of happy developments in my sartorial quests.

 

[NavyStyles]

WOW. I feel pretty special. I have a suit done by one of the top ten: Manuel Martinez (BR, LA). I also ordered some material from him to have a pair of pants made. I hope it helps to say that I can definitely see why he's on the list. Anyone in Louisiana, Mississippi, or eastern Texas who needs anything done should really make the trip to Baton Rouge.

 

[matadorpoeta]

i remember seeing the kabbaz website a few years ago and i also got the impression that they were obsessive about fit. they're in new york right? maybe when i make the trip...

sorry about the charvet experience. honestly i don't think making a shirt is exactly rocket science. i've seen shirts made by fashion students that were excellent. it just takes practice, like anything else.

i've seen the anthony gasbarri shop. it's in a "less than fashionable" section of hollywood that was probably a prime location fifty years ago. if i'm not mistaken, he's across the street from the greyhound station. i'm curious now to pay him a visit.

 

[marc39]

To Cherrytree: The *apprentice* tailor who works for my tailor makes some of Jon Green's suits in his spare time. Jon Green is not a tailor himself.