Took the plunge with RLBL. Critque?

[jrd617]

Originally Posted by comrade

Suit is a great improvement over previous. Find a good, no, great tailor, to reduce the
shoulders. You're in Chicago. I left there 20+years ago. .I had a superb tailor for alterations.
I am afraid he's no longer around. Go to the most exclusive mens' shop or department and
ask who their "outside tailor" is, the guy or girl they use for special alterations. This person
should work on the shoulders. As for Phineas Cole, it's costume: intended for a certain fey
demographic.

Too bad Despos doesn't have the time to take off from his bespoke business. He'd probably be the most capable.

 

[LennonMcCartney]

How much would a bespoke suit from Chris D. run me? This was 1,500. I am guessing between 2-3k.

 

[usctrojans31]

It is better, but not great. A lot of people go to RLBL because they hear such great things, especially on this forum, but it is a terribly difficult fit that most people miss on. The shoulders on most RLBL are typically structured in a way that if you have sloping shoulders, you're screwed. For your next suit, I would probably look outside of RLBL.

 

[usctrojans31]

Originally Posted by musicguy

The Paul Stewart you posted looks terrible. It looks like a women's jacket.

Your RLBL looks okay, but it's too big in the shoulders. My RLBL is slightly big in the shoulders too, though not as much as yours. I think the cut is intended for someone who has more developed shoulders than both of us.

+1 to jrd617. Nice simple explanation.

I don't think it is about developed shoulders, but rather square shoulders. I have insanely small shoulders and an insanely small frame for my 6'4" body, but the shoulders of RLBL fit me perfectly. In fact, the entire 40L fits me perfectly.

Conversely, the brands with the completely natural shoulder fall off of me and I look like a Golden Girl.

 

[jrd617]

Originally Posted by usctrojans31

It is better, but not great. A lot of people go to RLBL because they hear such great things, especially on this forum, but it is a terribly difficult fit that most people miss on. The shoulders on most RLBL are typically structured in a way that if you have sloping shoulders, you're screwed.
No, the shoulders are just plain wide. A lot less to do with shoulder slope. I have "squared" shoulders.

 

[LennonMcCartney]

So I effed up. Not badly, but apparently not worth 1.5k.

 

[LennonMcCartney]

I will say this: the shoulder on the jacket are at my natural shoulder. When I push down on the shoulder of my jacket, it hits my actual shoulder. But it does look odd.

 

[pitboss12]

Now that you've got the issues with the jacket straight, remember to take a couple of links out of the watch band.

 

[LennonMcCartney]

Absolutely. It's a fossil though. My shoes are Alend Edmonds off ebay, at least I did that right. Would Zenga be something more appropriate for me?

Button stance still too high? The jacket looks short. Does anyone have any CC Corneliani images?

 

[pvrhye]

Jesus, that man is a stick figure. Is that picture out of aspect ratio?

 

[LennonMcCartney]

I got it straight off the website. http://store.zegna.com/ZEGNA/search/...er/U/viewall/1 When I went to the store on Michigan avenue they recommend I get the Milano model. The shoulder were natural. I like a bit of a structured shoulder. This is all I could find for CC Corneliani:

 

[the_jro]

I was at Saks today and tried on several suits including Zegna's Milano (which I adore), but it does have a very soft shoulder. I also tried the HF Brampton. It has a gorgeous Loro Piana fabric and I thought the cut was comparable to the Milano. It has maybe a little less waist suppression and a center vent, but it does have more of a structured shoulder if that's what you're looking for. (I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary about the button stance, but I admit I wasn't paying very close attention to it.)

http://www.hickeyfreeman.com/mens-ta...rampton-model/

 

[Blackhood]

Lennon, stop asking about brands. This is your major sticking point. Each brand will have 4 or 5 different shapes, and you'll end up buying loads of suits trying to find the right one.

Go in to some shops (any brand you mentioned) and try them on. Look for a smooth shoulder line. Look for a nice length, look for a good trouser width.

Ignore the brand name for anything that isn't a reassurance of quality. No Brand will fit you, but a Suit will.

 

[Loathing]

I just think you bought one size too big. I'm 6' 0" on a pretty slim bone frame, but I have a 10" drop (from gyming) and the 38Rs are still a bit big on me at the back of the shoulders and in the waist. The 36Rs are tight as hell on me, but I think they'd fit you a lot better (from the info. you've given).

 

[robinsongreen68]

i don't think you really screwed up, it looks pretty nice IMO. definitely an improvement. perhaps just do some military presses/pushups? (this will surely help with all your future suit fits).