• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • No Man Walks Alone one of our oldest sponsors owned and operated by one of the most discerning buyers I know, is right now offering up to 50% off on their winter sale. Browse their extensive selection of mesnwear, shoes and accessories, and get something truly special, like this special collaboration Western style shirt by G. Inglese in a rich, thick, and luxe brown cotton moleskin, with subtly contasting yellow snaps

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Tom Ford suits/jackets are the first article of clothing I've been in love with

Joined
Sep 14, 2023
Messages
23
Reaction score
18
I've recently purchased my 12th Tom Ford suit/jacket, and I have to say, never in my life have a cherished an article of clothing as much.

I started getting into suits and jackets back in 2023 after dressing, quite frankly, like a slob my entire life. Out of sheer randomness, I happened to binge a few series in a row where most of the main cast was in suits the entire time, and I really started to think to myself "these guys look so put together, and I could do the same thing if I dressed better."

I started off mostly buying Isaia items I found with Top Shelf Apparel and really gained an appreciation for quality through them. Over time I picked up a couple of Kitons and a few other labels, and really felt like I was hitting a very different stride of fashion.

Then I started watching Suits, and sat slack jawed at Harvey Specter's look.

I'd picked up bits of sartorial knowledge at this point in terms of styling, construction, etc, but the pieces he was wearing were out of this world. Wide peak lapels, five button functional cuffs, strong structured shoulders, the classic ticket pocket: all of it just shouted "man in charge" and I was entranced.

I immediately looked up "what suits does harvey specter wear?" and was pleased to see many people had the same question and that it was answered several times.

I knew that eventually Garrison Bespoke was the maker, but the style that served as the genesis to his look through the series all started with Tom Ford's unusual but steadfast combination of lapels, pockets, and other details. I knew they were all made by Zegna as well; a label with an impressive pedigree and a reputation for high quality.

Like many on this forum, the full retail price was out of reach for me, but it was possible to find them discounted on both regular retail sites (Mr Porter, Luisa Viaroma and others) and eBay listings. Over time, I managed to amass:
  • Two sport jackets
  • Three dinner jackets
  • Seven suits
    • Light gray 3 piece O'Connor
    • Medium gray glen plaid 3 piece Windsor
    • Dark gray 3 piece O'Connor
    • Dark gray glen plaid Shelton
    • Blue windowpane Windsor
    • Dark blue glen plaid Shelton
    • Black and white gingham Atticus
They're almost all a 52IT/42R (the Atticus is a 54IT). I'm 6' 3" and around 200lbs with a very athletic build, and honestly, these suits fit like they were custom tailored for me. Almost everything I would buy previously that was RTW I would buy with basted sleeves because they were always too short stock, but Tom Ford was different. Every jacket was around an 18.5" shoulder, 21.5" chest, 26" sleeve and 31" length, and every one of them I put on would be hard pressed to fit better straight from a tailor.

On top of the fit, they also just feel amazing. My Isaias and Kitons certainly feel extremely well made, but all the Tom Ford suits I have manage to simultaneously feel like a suit of armor while also feeling unbelievably light and mobile. I never feel constrained, never feel bulky, never feel uncomfortable: it all feels like a second skin made of worsted wool and panache.

Thanks for listening to my rant about this; just felt like I had to share it with a community who understands loving clothing like this.
 

othertravel

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
10,475
Reaction score
4,393
If you're inclined to do so, you can pay a 50% upcharge to have the suit 'handmade'. Meaning, TF suits are largely machine made, but the upcharge will get you handmade details (basically Zegna Couture/Atelier standard).

But yes, best RTW brand for suits, imho.
 

Rixon

Distinguished Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2016
Messages
1,238
Reaction score
155
I've learned over time that how something fits and looks to you is far more important than then technical details that are easy to get caught up in. Sometimes having some parts of a suit made by machine is no different than hand and hand done is no promise of durability, fit, or aesthetic. I have dozens of suits by most notable brands, but TF certainly is one of my top favourites.

I learned a while ago it's a misnomer how Tom Ford is made by Zegna. Tom Ford purchased the factory from Zegna Couture, a higher line of quality. But just because it's purchased, doesn't mean the factory is used in the same way or artisans are used in the same way as the original company. Even if a company uses someone as a supplier, it doesn't mean the factory will keep the same standards as their own line when producing. Sometimes they will, sometimes they won't. https://ezrapaul.com/blogs/news/tom-ford This person did a direction that shows a few notable improvements of this specific TF jacket over a Zegna.

I've learned a few lessons:
- My Loro cashmere's pill sooner or later and my Cucinelli do not
- Cucinelli has the best customer service I've ever had
- My Kiton sweater seams will come apart sooner or later, but TF is built like a tank
- A structured suit versus a soft one is a daily preference and they're both great
 

othertravel

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
10,475
Reaction score
4,393
I've learned over time that how something fits and looks to you is far more important than then technical details that are easy to get caught up in. Sometimes having some parts of a suit made by machine is no different than hand and hand done is no promise of durability, fit, or aesthetic. I have dozens of suits by most notable brands, but TF certainly is one of my top favourites.

I learned a while ago it's a misnomer how Tom Ford is made by Zegna. Tom Ford purchased the factory from Zegna Couture, a higher line of quality. But just because it's purchased, doesn't mean the factory is used in the same way or artisans are used in the same way as the original company. Even if a company uses someone as a supplier, it doesn't mean the factory will keep the same standards as their own line when producing. Sometimes they will, sometimes they won't. https://ezrapaul.com/blogs/news/tom-ford This person did a direction that shows a few notable improvements of this specific TF jacket over a Zegna.

I've learned a few lessons:
- My Loro cashmere's pill sooner or later and my Cucinelli do not
- Cucinelli has the best customer service I've ever had
- My Kiton sweater seams will come apart sooner or later, but TF is built like a tank
- A structured suit versus a soft one is a daily preference and they're both great
Slight correction: Tom Ford sold its licence to Zegna; TF didn't buy the factory.

When TF (the man) sold the company, Zegna bought the lease for the brand on a 20-year term. (This excludes the costmetics side, which was sold to Estee.

But yes, TF is a separate beast - very little in common with Zegna in terms of aesthetic and branding.
 

jonathanS

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2013
Messages
3,470
Reaction score
2,059
Tom ford is made in the normal Zegna factory. Just like Zegna also makes for dunhill or Caruso makes for Ralph Lauren purple label.

The only thing Tom ford has in common with Zegna couture is the price tag. The standards are made to a normal Zegna spec. Of course, styling is quite different. Harvey Spector’s suits were tom ford, not bespoke.
 

othertravel

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
10,475
Reaction score
4,393
Tom ford is made in the normal Zegna factory. Just like Zegna also makes for dunhill or Caruso makes for Ralph Lauren purple label.

The only thing Tom ford has in common with Zegna couture is the price tag. The standards are made to a normal Zegna spec. Of course, styling is quite different. Harvey Spector’s suits were tom ford, not bespoke.

Yeah, the economics of it is interesting. The added cost of a TF suit vs. a Zegna mainline suit is likely partially explained by the need to recoup the cost of the licence. That said, TF (the man) deserves credit for using a full canvass as a default. Other fashion brands don't.

You mentioned Dunhill - I think they're kind of a sleeper/underappreciated brand. I mean, look at the styling here:


1736973774529.png


1736973808832.png
 

dazeify

New Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2025
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Tom ford is made in the normal Zegna factory. Just like Zegna also makes for dunhill or Caruso makes for Ralph Lauren purple label.

The only thing Tom ford has in common with Zegna couture is the price tag. The standards are made to a normal Zegna spec. Of course, styling is quite different. Harvey Spector’s suits were tom ford, not bespoke.
Harvey Specter wore Tom Ford, RLPL and Garrison Bespoke
 

othertravel

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
10,475
Reaction score
4,393
It bears repeating something what Jeffrey Diduch once wrote. Which is that whoever was the cutter for the Tom Ford fits, is very talented.
 

othertravel

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Feb 9, 2011
Messages
10,475
Reaction score
4,393
If you want the Tom ford look, you should try someone like sexton, chittleborough, Michael Browne or Davide taub

It funny you mention them. I've noticed that theyhave very distinctive shoulders. With TF, it's more about the chest.

Here's a pic of Davide Taub from the New Yorker:

Sharma-It-Really-Matters-Suit.jpg
 
Last edited:

philwongnz

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2010
Messages
143
Reaction score
42
Been wearing Tom Ford suits since 2009 and I am a little embarrassed as I lost count on how many of his suits and blazers I own and along with other items; is a brand I am still wearing for over a decade.

My Savile Row trained tailor who does my alterations and he said Tom Ford's suit internal construction can be a bit "illogical", where some parts shouldn't be made by hand and some parts were made in a more pain ********** way to get it altered or refinished.

He thinks Tom Ford is pretty much up there with Kiton and Brioni. We both agreed Dunhill is a very under appreciated brand, but I think it has more relevance now with the latest collections but I do think is way over priced for a brand although is well known, but its been seen as "dated" in the West Vs at the East, where along with Gieves and Hawkes and Kent & Curwen can afford to pay sky Hall rent in Hong Kong and China in luxury malls.

Another observation with Dunhill, I am not sure is made by Zegna anymore. I had some older Dunhill stuff and you can tell it was made by Zegna with the same innee chest pocket style tag as you find on TF, Zegna and older Gucci. But the current offerings has a very different style tag.
 

Jamesbond1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2016
Messages
1,182
Reaction score
2,779
Been wearing Tom Ford suits since 2009 and I am a little embarrassed as I lost count on how many of his suits and blazers I own and along with other items; is a brand I am still wearing for over a decade.

My Savile Row trained tailor who does my alterations and he said Tom Ford's suit internal construction can be a bit "illogical", where some parts shouldn't be made by hand and some parts were made in a more pain ********** way to get it altered or refinished.

He thinks Tom Ford is pretty much up there with Kiton and Brioni. We both agreed Dunhill is a very under appreciated brand, but I think it has more relevance now with the latest collections but I do think is way over priced for a brand although is well known, but its been seen as "dated" in the West Vs at the East, where along with Gieves and Hawkes and Kent & Curwen can afford to pay sky Hall rent in Hong Kong and China in luxury malls.

Another observation with Dunhill, I am not sure is made by Zegna anymore. I had some older Dunhill stuff and you can tell it was made by Zegna with the same innee chest pocket style tag as you find on TF, Zegna and older Gucci. But the current offerings has a very different style tag.
Tom Ford suits are machine made!
 

Featured Sponsor

How do you prefer trousers to be finished?

  • Plain hem

  • Cuffed (1.5 inches or less)

  • Cuffed (more than 1.5 inches)

  • No preference, as long as the proportions work


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
523,348
Messages
10,748,351
Members
229,767
Latest member
hanbok
Top