Tom Ford Question

[Tbro71]

Does anyone know what brand of suit Tom Ford wore before he started his own line? I know he ran Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent but in every picture I see of him when he's in a black suit, there's an extra flap on the right side of the jacket above the pocket. The only suit I've seen with that flap is Thierry Mugler.

 

[Nataku]

It's called a Ticket Pocket. I've seen quite a bit of them on Savile Row stuff.

 

[Tbro71]

That's the pocket. I want that tapered cut in the waist. I assume that's something my tailor can achieve. he suit just seems so tapered at the waist. I assume a good tailor can achieve that for me.
http://www.contactmusic.com/pics/la/...rd_1903318.jpg

 

[ter1413]

a custom suit would have a ticket pocket if the wearer requests it. 3/4 of my suits have it.

 

[wetnose]

Originally Posted by Tbro71

That's the pocket. I want that tapered cut in the waist. I assume that's something my tailor can achieve. he suit just seems so tapered at the waist. I assume a good tailor can achieve that for me.
http://www.contactmusic.com/pics/la/...rd_1903318.jpg

It's only doable if you have the body for it - if your chest measurement is 40 and your waist 32, then go for it. If it's 40/42, then no tailor alive can do that tapered cut.

 

[SpooPoker]

Originally Posted by Tbro71

 

[Tbro71]

I'm 40 chest with 29 inch waist.

 

[Steeze]

What kind of collars does Ford wear to keep them just so when open? Is there a hidden button somewhere?

 

[Tbro71]

I think maybe just heavy starch?

 

[Captain Winky]

Originally Posted by Tbro71

I think maybe just heavy starch?

I just find it hard to imagine a man who loves clothes so much subjecting shirts to that much (if any!) starch. There was a time when hidden buttons or snaps (in lieu of collar stays or visible buttons) were very much in vogue, but I haven't seen many of those for 10-15 years. I think that look is possible if 1. he is using very short collar stays, or no collar stays and 2. his suit is tailored so perfectly that the lapels hold the shirt collar in place when the jacket is buttoned. I doubt either of those are out of the realm of possibility in the picture shown.

 

[Holdfast]

Originally Posted by Captain Winky

I just find it hard to imagine a man who loves clothes so much subjecting shirts to that much (if any!) starch. There was a time when hidden buttons or snaps (in lieu of collar stays or visible buttons) were very much in vogue, but I haven't seen many of those for 10-15 years. I think that look is possible if 1. he is using very short collar stays, or no collar stays and 2. his suit is tailored so perfectly that the lapels hold the shirt collar in place when the jacket is buttoned. I doubt either of those are out of the realm of possibility in the picture shown.

Carefully-chosen collars and appropriately fitting shirts do indeed keep the collar points in place without the need for hidden buttons. A slightly higher collar-band with a correspondingly large collar itself also helps.

However, even with those elements, the shirts won't automatically open up in that neat v-shape even though the collar points will stay in position. I find that if you want that effect, you need to iron them fairly lightly, not button the top-most button when storing them (otherwise a tendency for the shirt to "close up" is set in), and hang them that way in your wardrobe rather than folding them for storage. If you can't do that, just quickly run an iron over just before wearing, and press it slightly open.

 

[Captain Winky]

Originally Posted by Holdfast

Carefully-chosen collars and appropriately fitting shirts do indeed keep the collar points in place without the need for hidden buttons. A slightly higher collar-band with a correspondingly large collar itself also helps.

However, even with those elements, the shirts won't automatically open up in that neat v-shape even though the collar points will stay in position. I find that if you want that effect, you need to iron them fairly lightly, not button the top-most button when storing them (otherwise a tendency for the shirt to "close up" is set in), and hang them that way in your wardrobe rather than folding them for storage. If you can't do that, just quickly run an iron over just before wearing, and press it slightly open.

Well, to get that exact opening, all you need are shirts that are about an inch too small in the chest. It wouldn't surprise me if all his clothes are custom anyways and he has some "stay open" shirts and some "close up" shirts.

 

[intent]

Originally Posted by Steeze

What kind of collars does Ford wear to keep them just so when open? Is there a hidden button somewhere?
Your answer is here: http://www.wurkinstiffs.com/ Anyone ever try them? Recommended?

 

[Steeze]

I'm sure that's not what Ford uses, but I'd be interested in giving it a shot looks cool. Do you think getting the different sizes is necessary?

 

[Steeze]

I bought some on amazon for $30. I'll let you all know