Tom Ford: For the shorter guy

[H Yang]

Here is a question for the various members out there that have had extensive experience with the Tom Ford label.

I'm currently making preparations for my wedding (which isn't until September of 2014), and am looking at various options for the tuxedo to wear at the evening reception. I have always been intrigued by Tom Ford menswear, but since i dont work in an environment that requires a formal business suit, i haven't really had the motivation to purchase (though i love the look of his three piece suits).

However, i figured this would be a good opportunity for me to make my first Tom Ford purchase. Unfortunately, Tom Ford menswear is not available here in Taiwan (where i am based); though it's only a very short flight to Hong Kong, where he has a number of boutiques. So i'll probably be checking things out in person either in December or January, but just thought it would be nice to get some additional feedback/information/advice/suggestions before showing up to try things on.

Basically, I'm in the market for a black peak lapel tuxedo, with silk grosgrain, or satin facings. Single button, besom pockets, no vent. I believe Tom Ford does have tuxedos that would fit this criteria?

Which leads to my question (or, in fact, questions):

1) I'm quite short, and also of a pretty slim build (5' 6" and around 145lbs). Which Base would people suggest would fit me the best? I haven't been able to find a comprehensive list of them, though searching through SF has yielded some info.

2) In the past, i've mostly owned fashion forward style jackets, with lapels on the slimmer side. However, i definitely want to purchase something more classic looking this time. Do people that are familiar with the look and feel of the Tom Ford wider lapel think that they would not (proportionately speaking) befit someone of my small stature?


Just as additional info, i already have a midnight blue shawl collar DJ which i will be changing into midway through the reception (it's an Asian wedding thing....the bride has multiple changes of clothes during the reception, and i thought i'd start the reception in the black peak lapel, and end it in the midnight blue shawl collar).

Thanks for any help that members can provide.

 

[Quarks]

Tom Ford's tuxedo's either has a single or double vents. You could possibly enquire about have one made with MTM without a vent.

1. Tom Ford's classic fits are Base A (or 'Fit A' as they called it now). They still do Base B. And has phased out Base C and Base T. Tom Ford tuxedos comes in Base A, B, T, W, as far as I know.

2. For lapel width, Base T has the largest lapel width, followed by Base C, then A. For classic fits, go with either Base A or B. The best favour you can do for yourself is to go in person and try it out. Clara at HK Tom Ford at IFC should be able to help u once you are there.

 

[H Yang]

Tom Ford's tuxedo's either has a single or double vents. You could possibly enquire about have one made with MTM without a vent.

1. Tom Ford's classic fits are Base A (or 'Fit A' as they called it now). They still do Base B. And has phased out Base C and Base T. Tom Ford tuxedos comes in Base A, B, T, W, as far as I know.

2. For lapel width, Base T has the largest lapel width, followed by Base C, then A. For classic fits, go with either Base A or B. The best favour you can do for yourself is to go in person and try it out. Clara at HK Tom Ford at IFC should be able to help u once you are there.

Thanks very much Quarks for your helpful response.

Do you think i'd have to go MTM to find something that fits well, or would a OTR EUR44 be okay? (assuming they have that size available). MTM would be slightly trickier, as i'd have to make a second trip to pick up, but given there is still alot of months till the wedding, it's doable.

I agree that the best option is to just go there and try things on, but, i thought other more TF savvy members would be able to give me some kind of rough idea about what to expect. I'll ask for Clara when i'm there, and see if she's around. Does she know you personally so i could say who's recommending?

 

[cptjeff]



Thanks very much Quarks for your helpful response. 

Do you think i'd have to go MTM to find something that fits well, or would a OTR EUR44 be okay? (assuming they have that size available). MTM would be slightly trickier, as i'd have to make a second trip to pick up, but given there is still alot of months till the wedding, it's doable. 

I agree that the best option is to just go there and try things on, but, i thought other more TF savvy members would be able to give me some kind of rough idea about what to expect. I'll ask for Clara when i'm there, and see if she's around. Does she know you personally so i could say who's recommending? 

As a 5'6" guy at about 145, I wear a 36S, 46S by your measurements. Especially in something that fits as closely as Tom Ford and for an occasion like your wedding, you should try stuff on.

 

[H Yang]

As a 5'6" guy at about 145, I wear a 36S, 46S by your measurements. Especially in something that fits as closely as Tom Ford and for an occasion like your wedding, you should try stuff on.

It varies for me cptjeff, but most of my jackets are in a EUR44 (it might be my shoulders, which arent particularly broad), and i generally wear very close fitting stuff. For very fashion forward fitted brands like Dior Homme or Saint Laurent Paris, i still generally take a 44, occasionally a 46.

I will definitely try stuff on before making any decisions. But thanks for sharing, hopefully a 46S will be fine for me also (as i am aware the size 44 can be elusive).

 

[rktoronto]

Hello there.I am 5'10" around 165 lbs. I like my suits to fit snug and fitting. I have Base A, Base B and Base D all in regular. For me they all need tailoring to get that true TF fit. However over time, my taste has changed and I like my jackets just a tiny bit shorter. SO, I have just spent many hours trying suits on at TF store and you need to try and get a Spencer fit. They are perfect. Fit like a glove! Not sure if they come in a tux. jacket but its worth asking.

If not, you will have to go for a short jacket. Myself at 5'10" look better in a short jacket.

BUT if you want true perfection, made to measure is the only way to go!

 

[H Yang]

Thanks for the suggestions. In the past, i've tended to go with jackets that are much shorter than what people would consider classic. However, i'm slowly warming (or perhaps maturing?) to the more classic length jacket that covers your behind; though again, as far as proportions, things need to be just right or it does make a short person look even shorter IMO.

@rktoronto, care to share any photos of yourself in the various different TF bases? Would definitely help me envisage things more clearly.

 

[Mute]

I agree with cptjeff regarding the sizing. I'm roughly the same size and weight and I find the 46s to be a better fit, unless, like you described, you like the fashion forward, just a bit too tight look.

 

[H Yang]

Thanks for your input. I will know better either way in a couple of weeks. I should be flying over to HK on December 27th, and will spend the day weighing options. If able to, i will take photos, and post later.

Just as a slightly unrelated question, if i went the TF MTM option, how is their payment done? (i.e. full payment due at time of order, or deposit taken, and outstanding balance handled once the MTM product arrives for pick-up?)

 

[Quarks]



Thanks very much Quarks for your helpful response. 

Do you think i'd have to go MTM to find something that fits well, or would a OTR EUR44 be okay? (assuming they have that size available). MTM would be slightly trickier, as i'd have to make a second trip to pick up, but given there is still alot of months till the wedding, it's doable. 

I agree that the best option is to just go there and try things on, but, i thought other more TF savvy members would be able to give me some kind of rough idea about what to expect. I'll ask for Clara when i'm there, and see if she's around. Does she know you personally so i could say who's recommending? 

I apologise for my late reply. Missed this thread completely. I suggest trying OTR EUR44. I just came back from HK, and realised that Clara has left TF. Evelyn should be able to assist. They have a master tailor who should be able to assist your tailoring/ fitting needs. For MTM in Australia, 50% deposit to be made at the time of order, remaining payment upon collection. Should be the same in HK.

 

[H Yang]

Clarks, your advice was more or less spot on. I just returned last night from my little daytrip to HK for researching tuxes.
I didn't see any female salespeople when i showed up at the IFC store, so Evelyn was not able to assist me. There was a bit of a breakdown in communication, which made the experience not completely satisfactory, but i did get to try on a few jackets. For the others that were suggesting a EUR46s would be fine, i can now confidently say the TF 46s is very ill-fitting on me (in the shoulder area......i'd say it hangs off both my shoulders by half to three quarters of an inch each side).

They sadly did not have a EUR44 left in the tuxedo style i wanted, however, they did let me try a two button peak lapel jacket in the EUR44, and it definitely fit me correctly. The model i tried did indeed have double vents (would these be difficult to sew shut in a way that doesnt affect the drape/silhouette of the outfit?)

The trousers though, were a little more complicated. The EUR46 was pretty much spot on for me at my current weight and waistline. The EUR44 trouser did not fit quite correctly, but i am in the midst of slimming down for the wedding anyway, so i don't envisage this as being too much of a complication.

So basically, with TF, i was left with two options. I could either go MTM, which is obviously a tadbit more expensive. Or, i could wait for their next shipment (i was told March), and see if they have the tuxedo in a EUR44 again. I think given the way the other 44 jacket fit me, i am reasonably confident that an OTR 44 tuxedo would be fine; and therefore, that might be a better option, rather than paying the additional money for the MTM that might fit me slightly better than the OTR 44, but only marginally so (and before people say "You're already dropping 5k on a tuxedo, why scrimp that little extra and not go MTM?" I think it's more a case of negligible returns on the extra money....and why waste the extra money if you are getting practically the same result for less).

I did also venture over to Ralph Lauren, to give their RLPL a try. Was surprised that it was priced even a little bit higher than TF (at least when i directly compare the respective tuxes i tried on at both establishments). Their sales staff were super professional, and much more knowledgeable about their product than the SA that served me at TF (though, it really could have been the language barrier issue....the RL sales spoke better English than the TF sales did). I was relatively happy with the way RLPL looked on me also, though it didnt quite have the "wow" factor (for lack of a better description) than TF did. Again, sizing was an issue, though i'd say the RLPL 46s did fit almost correctly along my shoulders.

I'll think things over a bit and see if i have any luck in March. If not, i would still consider MTM, and probably place the order around May, so it gives me plenty of time before my big day at the end of September.