Tom Ford-esque suit

[Professor Χάος]

As mentioned above, Windsor and Shelton are similar, but with a few key differences:

1. Shelton is by default single vented, but retailers can opt for double vented versions.

2. Windor's chest piece is constructed with three layers of canvass, whereas Shelton has two. If you try them on, you can notice the difference - Shelton has a slighter softer silhouette.

If I do another MTO/MTM with TF, I would like to try it with double-forward pleats. They are one of the only well-known brands that offer that as an option (RLPL is another one).

And going back to canvassing, RLPL's Gregory fit has four layers of canvass (canvassing arm's race!).

Hmmm....my Shelton is a half-lined, wool-linen-silk mix, with soft shoulders, so I thought its lightness was an artifact of its unstructured construction.

I've never handled a regular, fully-lined 100% wool Shelton. Why does TF need so many layers of canvas? How many layers of canvas does an Isaia or Kiton suit have? I'm guessing one layer. Is the purpose of multiple layers of canvas to give the suit more structure?

 

[othertravel]

Hmmm....my Shelton is a half-lined, wool-linen-silk mix, with soft shoulders, so I thought its lightness was an artifact of its unstructured construction.

I've never handled a regular, fully-lined 100% wool Shelton. Why does TF need so many layers of canvas? How many layers of canvas does an Isaia or Kiton suit have? I'm guessing one layer. Is the purpose of multiple layers of canvas to give the suit more structure?

Yep, it’s to give it structure. If you look at photos of people wearing the Windsor model, the chest is very pronounced.

The amount of shoulder padding is pretty moderate compared to RLPL Gregory, which has the most padding I’ve handeled in the suit.

I can’t speak to the particulars of Kiton or Isaia, but I would guess they use less canvassing to get a softer drape.

And here’s a Canali MTM I did in their 15000 model. It has wide peak lapels like Tom Ford, but has a very light construction (the jacket probably weighs half as much as a Tom Ford piece).

The only downside of the 15000 model is that the accompanying trouser is slim, and has a lower rise. But since I did MTM, I ordered it with a 13000 trouser, and added an inch to the rise.

 

[Professor Χάος]

Yep, it’s to give it structure. If you look at photos of people wearing the Windsor model, the chest is very pronounced.

View attachment 2215551

The amount of shoulder padding is pretty moderate compared to RLPL Gregory, which has the most padding I’ve handeled in the suit.

I can’t speak to the particulars of Kiton or Isaia, but I would guess they use less canvassing to get a softer drape.

And here’s a Canali MTM I did in their 15000 model. It has wide peak lapels like Tom Ford, but has a very light construction (the jacket probably weighs half as much as a Tom Ford piece).

View attachment 2215553

The only downside of the 15000 model is that the accompanying trouser is slim, and has a lower rise. But since I did MTM, I ordered it with a 13000 trouser, and added an inch to the rise.

Nice suit. I like Canali. Its one of the best values in terms of marginal utility per dollar. I have about 8 Canali suits. The last one I bought was 1900 model, 15% silk, and also had a peaked lapel. I had my tailor remove most of the shoulder padding. More current Canalis tend to have minimal shoulder padding.

However, I stopped buying Canali years ago. Like most SFers, I prefer the Neapolitan silhouette.

 

[dreamspace]

What makes Tom Ford suits Tom Ford are the following:

- Bowed peak lapels with lower gorge
- Roped shoulders with some structure

Those are more or less the defining characteristics of a TF suit. If you want to nail the look, without paying $5k for a TF suit, you'll have to find some brand that style their coats in the same ballpark, of offer extensive MTM customization.

10 years ago, when I was hunting high and low for a decent "TF on budget" option, I'd say that 95% of the brands failed due to the style difference on the two points I mentioned above.

Of course, once you look past those two, there are other details:

- Larger / oversized pocket flaps
- 5 button sleeves
- The extra long milanese buttonhole
- Loose fit trousers (well, at least on the iconic fits)
- Nipped waistline on the jackets.

Tom Ford is not about softness - it's a about sharp and defined lines, and dramatic Y (or X) shape.

By far, the biggest challenge is to find someone that lets you alter the gorge height.

 

[othertravel]

What makes Tom Ford suits Tom Ford are the following:

- Bowed peak lapels with lower gorge
- Roped shoulders with some structure

Those are more or less the defining characteristics of a TF suit. If you want to nail the look, without paying $5k for a TF suit, you'll have to find some brand that style their coats in the same ballpark, of offer extensive MTM customization.

10 years ago, when I was hunting high and low for a decent "TF on budget" option, I'd say that 95% of the brands failed due to the style difference on the two points I mentioned above.

Of course, once you look past those two, there are other details:

- Larger / oversized pocket flaps
- 5 button sleeves
- The extra long milanese buttonhole
- Loose fit trousers (well, at least on the iconic fits)
- Nipped waistline on the jackets.

Tom Ford is not about softness - it's a about sharp and defined lines, and dramatic Y (or X) shape.

By far, the biggest challenge is to find someone that lets you alter the gorge height.

All solid points. Best bet might be bespoke through one of the English bespoke houses, and try to nail a similar fit. The price may end up being the same.

Jeffrey Diduch did a great write up of a what makes a TF suit unique:

TOM FORD – Tuttofatto3D.com – Tuttofattoamano

robertjeffery.us

I think he also mentioned at some point that the cutter/pattern maker for TF was very talented - likely a close collaboration between TF and Zegna's deep bench of tailors.

 

[othertravel]

Here's a piece from their latest F/W collection - very sharp, but the pattern is bonkers.

 

[DorianGreen]

Here's a piece from their latest F/W collection - very sharp, but the pattern is bonkers.

I would use jacket and trousers as odd garments. As a suit it looks a little too much.