Tom Cruise "Collateral" suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by armscye, Jan 17, 2005.

  1. armscye

    armscye Senior member

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2004
    I'm late to the party but just saw Collateral last night on hotel cable. I seem to recall a thread on the gray minimalist suit he wears-- allegedly the product of an obscure Oriental tailor.

    The suit has narrow lapels with an unusual gorge, single button front, longish side vents, beltless slacks without side tabs, and a single cuff button that in one scene appeared to have a diagonal-cut buttonhole. The overall effect is sleek and almost machine like-- director Michael Mann seems to have matched the gray dyed color of Cruises's hair, suggesting a metallic killing organism. He uses some motion-control techniques to give Cruise superhuman speed in the nightclub fight and briefcase chase scenes, presumably to underscore this.

    I'm tempted to have one made (or adapted from a more conventionally cut suit), though I would return the lapel width to a more conventional halfway-to-the-shoulder seam width, possibly with a modest peak or else a fishmouth effect. I'm considering fabric-covered buttons in the suit fabric. The gray color is a question mark-- I'm not gray yet.

    Opinions? Details?
     
  2. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

    Messages:
    265
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2005
    I thought that Collateral was great. It's one of my all-time favorite movies. I really like what Michael Mann does with his main criminal characters in Collateral(DeNiro) and Heat(Cruise). Both DeNiro and Cruise had sharp-looking suits and unbuttoned white shirts. Maybe Cruise's suit in Collateral was inspired in part by the Conduit Cut suits made by Anthony Sinclair for Sean Connery in the Bond films.
     
  3. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Likes Received:
    97
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    [​IMG] I could swear that the suit had 2 buttons, but that they were very close together. Jon.
     
  4. drljva

    drljva Senior member

    Messages:
    302
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2004
    Location:
    Seattle
    Mann was quoted in the magazine Premiere as saying that TC's suit "was made by the best tailor in Kowloon". That's the most specific reference I've seen as to the origins of the suit.

    JV
     
  5. justlurkingthanks

    justlurkingthanks Senior member

    Messages:
    179
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2004
    I hope that wasn't the tailor who chased me down the streets of Kowloon demanding that he make me a suit.
     
  6. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Likes Received:
    97
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    [​IMG] Jon.
     
  7. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

    Messages:
    14,914
    Likes Received:
    93
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    I'll try to flip through it and get a screenshot or two tonight if I get a chance.
     
  8. armscye

    armscye Senior member

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2004
    Okay, here's the link to the suit, a bit bloodstained since it's the final act. Note the odd gorge, loose sleeves, single button. The ever-cryptic forum software tells me the syntax does not match what they want, so you'll have to paste it into a browser. http://movies.yahoo.com/shop?d=....intl=us
     
  9. Duveen

    Duveen Senior member

    Messages:
    840
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2004
    Location:
    NYC
    Hi, I got curious about the suit, and found a few pics on a german website that give a good (and less bloody) sense of the cut. Look at the middle image found on this link. It shows the suit buttoned, giving you a sense of the low gorge and overall look. The suit looks odd - not like a 'real' suit, but - as armscye says - like some kind of wierd uniform. This Univision link gives a pic that shows the suit's balance.
     
  10. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

    Messages:
    5,663
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    I saw nearly the exact same cut on a suit coat by Dolce & Gabbana for spring 2005. The pants, however, were pencil thin, without room for a gun on the ankle.
     
  11. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

    Messages:
    265
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2005
    A homage to the Conduit Cut? [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  12. armscye

    armscye Senior member

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2004
    The Conduit cut was very spare in the arms and legs-- unlike the Collateral suit, which definitely has loose arms and legs.

    By the way, I don't believe Cruise carried anything on the ankle. His H&K USPF 45 ACP (a big gun, by the way, on a relatively small guy) was in a strong side hip holster, with a double magazine pouch on his left hip. The gun in the jazz club scene is an integrally suppressed Ruger Mk II 22LR with an 8-inch barrel, and would probably just have been stuffed in his waistband. The Smith 5906 9mm he carries in the photo whose link I posted is taken from the dead guard at the Federal building. He also has a folding knife in the Benchmade pattern, used to cut Jamie Foxx's zipties off.
     
  13. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Likes Received:
    97
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    I think part of the look Mann was going for was a suit that looks very, very common place, almost as if it could have been bought off the rack and taken in, thus making the TC character blend even more with everyday surroundings. Alas, the well dressed man in perfect-fitting bespoke is going to get more attention than the guy with the RTW suit that he got on sale at Macy's.

    Jon.
     
  14. Sevcom

    Sevcom Senior member

    Messages:
    342
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2002
    Location:
    New York
    The gorge doesn't seem particularly low--it's almost on par with the Connery Conduit cut photo. But I agree that it looks like it's meant to be fairly unremarkable to the casual observer, and not immediately recognizable as one style or another.
     
  15. Tokyo Slim

    Tokyo Slim In Time Out

    Messages:
    19,179
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2004
    Location:
    Where Eagles Dare!
    Finally...someone else who notices these things...[​IMG]
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by