Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.
new toj lookbook is going to be heavenly no homo
Yeah, that coat looks awesome in the show. It's almost full length though, so there's a good chance it'd just look like a costume IRL.
Been studying down garment construction, and most of what I said before is the basis I've found, but on the construction level, I'm pretty amazed, actually. Good 'fashion' down pieces (i.e. not a cheap tubular North Face or Uniqlo with a bunch of down shot into the hollows, the kind of cheap down jackets that constantly leak little feathers) are quite labor intensive from a sewing standpoint, at least a couple steps I'd have not thought of, I guess.
To put down in from what I saw (and how I'd want it to be done) - you have make a bunch of muslin bags, or a light fabric with a tight enough weave to trap the down inside, and you fill those independently with down on the 'stuffer' machine (looks like a huge industrial thing with a nozzle) that you just put the bags on like balloons and mete out the fill weight. The down bags are shaped specifically to the pattern and design, so they look like kidney beans or 'L's or what have you, those are random and individual.
So once these random down bags of all shapes and sizes are filled and sealed at the end, you take them and sew them into the shell, maybe flattening out the bags evenly and then quilting over them at the same time, so that the fill gets distributed to each channel and stays put and lofty. Then you sew in the lining like any other. It's like any jacket we make already, but has those fill pads sewn inside. It'd take a few more steps of design planning and workflow plans (I normally don't need to dabble too hard in workflow ideas, considering our scale) to make a successful down piece the way I'd want it.
I think I could circumvent the need for a fill machine if I handmade the fill bags, meted out the fill on my digital scale, then sent the finished fill bags to a workshop of my choice to be sewn to the panels. I'd have to find a supplier willing to sell me down in big 100L trash bags at only a few bags at a time, because I have a small work room that would get out of hand and piss off Mrs TOJ if there were any more than that at one time. So, I guess the outlook for down is better, but again, would take some real thought to engineer, possibly a lot of trials and stuff. I just don't like doing things the easy way if I find out about the next level.
Drew feel free to send me TOJ pieces I will model them for you (0)
haha, reminds me of the occasional emails we get from god knows who and where - they usually go along the lines of either 'hey bro, I'm from this store' or 'hey bro, I'm an up and coming unsigned artist' - 'can you send me some of your clothes for me to check out/wear for a shoot'
my answer is either
a) sure, let me whip up $3000 worth of samples to send to you and each of the other 10 guys who hit me up with the same idea, with no hopes of ever receiving back
But I did have a conversation just this morning with a magazine guy looking to do some editorial work with TOJ stuff, and I was talking about my preferences for models and the 'look' I want to represent. We didn't get too serious in the past about shoots, but I'm getting more interested in it now. We had that small Korean guy do mini-shoots for us in the past, because a) he was a (hopelessly slack) waiter at this bar where we drank beer and worked on TOJ stuff and he was just standing there at the right time, and b) he was basically doing it for free, and c) I liked his look, he kind of represents the TOJ base in some ways, and he has a slightly troubled youth look to him, which is cool. I identify with that.
There were some good shots we got out of the combination of him plus my amateur photographer friend, some weaker shots, but if you look at the front page of superfuture there's a little snippet that is mostly practice and I think it looks really cool and comes together really naturally - and we shot very casually, no more serious than one would for a WAYWT pic, and I think the feel is naturally good, there's something there. No make up, no hair styling, no clips or pins, and the clothes aren't MTM for him, they were just clothes we had on hand - we shot him as he walked in off the street, and just threw a few clothes at him to model, and we put together the photos in about 10 minutes.
Sadly, this guy has gone off to do his mandatory army service, so we won't get to feature him again, so the next look session will be with a different person, yet to be found.
Good thing I revoked my South Korean citizenship and ran to America.
Haha, I just meant waxed cotton in general. I remember you saying something about waxed cotton and jackets. Anyways, the trousers sound more interesting...will allow me to eat a lot and not muffin over.
I once had an office job - worst part was going to lunch and eating huge lunches (we were all fatties) and coming back to my desk and having my trousers slowly asphyxiating me through the rest of the day. The bit of elastic is going to be game changing, watch me. I guarantee people will knock the idea off. This is reminding me of all of my aspirations for innovation I used to have back when I started TOJ and everything was clean slate... This is gonna be great because I can capture some of that original energy.
The trousers are really getting me excited, because I wake up each day lately and think on it, and realize how many good fits and the good feedback that will come back from them. Maybe we'll have to run more than just the 3 or 4 colors I originally intended...
if I had a dayjob right now, I'd want these pants in 5-7 colors and the shirts in 5-7 colors/patterns as well - get nice black shoes, work outfit complete. That's how the pants originally came about actually - I made them a few months before TOJ was born or even conceived, when I had a job and needed work clothes. Was gonna wear them with my Raf and Jil, Bless, some MMM stuff - I was wearing modern biz-caz to work at the time. I think once the first pair of pants were finally made, I'd quit my job a few days before Funny how that ends up. I'd be happy if all of you guys could wear them and have them finally find their place, since I never got around to it the first time around....
I'm starting my first big boy job in a week and this is my exact plan.
Look forward to the pants.
all this perfect office pants talk is actually making me want to buy the pants more
maybe it will be revolutionary!
they are not gonna be for everybody - so, not like an Epaulet trouser or Incotex, or anything like that. These will be very stylish and slightly aggressive, slightly small hem, noticeable taper. Not that pants take a huge emotional commitment, but they're slim fitting and pretty instantly stylish if you wear them with a nice shirt and shoes.
I'd like to swag Stanley Van Buren out with the TOJ trousers, actually, come to think of it... I always threatened to before, but I think I finally have something that really calls out to him...
Please make those trousers which can fit 26-27 waist... wanna kop some trousers
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