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TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    There are more things yet to come with the neo-Amekaji look; things that will trickle down and get more traction. For example, see those trekking boots that weren't really big in America until a few years ago, but like I said, have been here all along. They've been beasting on Tricker's, shell Aldens, a lot of the now-popular stuff for 10 years or more now. There's more gas in the tank though. The amekaji looks in America are gonna continue, there'll just be a few new motifs and stuff. The form factors that I make for TOJ - those are common motifs that are current on the streets of Tokyo now - varsity jackets, peacoats, fishtails, classical rider's jackets, bomber jackets, etc, etc.

    I am not crowing that Tokyo is the fashion capital of the world, or that it's Europe, but it's hard to argue with the fact that Japan is conscious of Europe as well as America simultaneously and does lots of work at the lower to mid priced end of the fashion spectrum to find an accessible, supremely wearable 'uniform' of sorts within a shorter time frame than mainstream Americans have typically donem... and that the basic street styles, the items in the stores here that I've seen time and time again, over the 12 years I've come and gone from Tokyo, end up on American people several years later, sometimes much longer than that. I first heard of Julius in 2003 in a regular monthly magazine, and people are still wearing/buying/talking about it on here in 2012 at some level. I remember there was a pair of white Raf Simons pants in 2003 or 2004, obscenely expensive, that were hand-decorated with sharpie, and those were actually relatively influential on some level, at least as a trickle down idea that ended up on a bunch of mid market Japanese clothes for a couple years as a motif.

    So that said, I am saying a few hours spent on Omotesando lately would not produce many Rick Owens/gothninja item sightings - those are past as of a few years ago. Restir at Midtown here had a big sale at this time in 2008 - this was with a cheap yen, 60 or 70% off sale on Rick leathers that weren't moving, that was when it was signaling it's own end. They still sell that stuff here, but who buys it? I don't know. Not the editors, stylists, tastemakers, or anybody who wants to stay within the sphere of style and relevance right now. It's not the look. It was, but not now.

    I'm not even saying that we're at a high point in fashion, quite the opposite, it's kind of depressing for anybody who likes more than just 'clothes' - but that is how it looks on the street.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2012


  2. laughter95

    laughter95 Senior member

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    Do people care about raw denim in Japan nowadays? I feel like sufu and sf were so much more obsessed with the Fab 5's offerings maybe 3 years ago and now not so much.
     


  3. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    I still see raw denim around, but it's always been here, for like 20-30 years. Raw denim is just one denim look among a lot of other distressed looks - there's the gently worn-in previously raw jeans, there's pre-distressed of different styles, there's the washed out light jeans, and the destroyed torn up jeans still. All are common. Tight/skinny fits, not so much, for guys at least. Jeans are much slouchier in Japan as of awhile ago. Raw denim beasting, like 6 months, no wash, they don't really do that here beyond a few denim nerds. If people wear dark jeans it's for the look of the present, and not what they're supposed to be in the future, at least mainstream amekaji street looks-wise.
     


  4. ennui

    ennui Senior member

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    I would buy something similar to the black CP training boots with the side zips. In fact I have that as a WTB right now in the classifieds.

    Not a big fan of the jodhpurs. They look great in the pictures, but a pain to put on on a regular basis.

    IMHO, speed hooks wouldn't work well with the small-hemmed jeans that people don't like to wear tucked nowadays.
     


  5. Rambo

    Rambo Senior member

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    I'M IN MIAMI, BITCH
    

    I never got it. I haz a sad. Goes along with this shitty beer that I just drank.
     


  6. cowsareforeating

    cowsareforeating Senior member

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    you should write a blog/book... you write some really good shit. good enough shit for me to be seriously concerned for my darktisan wear :(
     


  7. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Don't need to write the book on that man, the book was written. Go pick up any Japanese fashion magazine and see what looks they are pushing - some magazines get paid to do that, some don't - but the fact is that those are the clothes for sale here nowadays... and that the gothninja stuff was there many years ago, in the same place. Julius, Attachment, the Viridianne, wjk, et al - those were all pretty popular in their day, maybe starting around 2004 or so. Styles just change.
     


  8. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    You know what cheap sneaker I think might get some play again, after years of neglect? The all-white Adidas Superstar. It's about that time...
     


  9. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    something to look at: olive calf 2010 DR. Dan messaged me and told me that this might be the nicest jacket we've ever made in his opinion, and well, he's seen them all.... color might not show up that well on your monitors, because it's a bit of a dark olive.

    [​IMG]
     


  10. Kross

    Kross Senior member

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  11. Kross

    Kross Senior member

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    No way, silhouette on those are atrocious imo. My friend recently bought a pair and I had to gift him a pair of nikes just so I wouldn't have to see those again.

    Which ones would you recommend?
     


  12. BB1

    BB1 Senior member

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    wjk is not a goth ninja label unless you consider stuff like M66 jackets, trucker caps, plaid flannels, and western shirts to be pieces a goth ninja label might routinely produce. The people who truly dress in a goth ninja style certainly do not wear wjk! The other day I wore an outfit of 100% wjk pieces and my wife told me that i looked like a lumberjack.

    Labels change too. Look at Attachment's SS12 photo shoot. Lighter colors like pink, yellow, and light blue. Pants with baggier cuts that are not always skin tight, etc. It looks more like something from nonnative than a goth ninja label.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2012


  13. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    The Superstars are relevant as a classic Amekaji shoe - the Japanese didn't get a lot of the technical sneakers in the 1990's and they were always expensive if they did get them, so a lot of the styles made do with low-tech sneakers, which they were able to get cheaper. Stan Smiths, Superstars, Air Force 1's, etc, etc. I remember going to Honolulu once in the early 90's and wondering why all the Japanese people were buying Stan Smiths - because I wanted the Reebok Pumps... Stan Smiths were not cool, or so it were :lol:

    So anyway, there's obviously going to be this sneaker resurgence one more time, because we can't wear boots all year round or every day for that matter - the whole grey New Balance thing is one thing, and then the alternatives are Vans (still, a little bit at least) and then low tech Nikes, Adidas, etc. Whatever looks remotely heritage. Superstars and Campus haven't been popular for a long time, but the chunky silhouette is going to be more relevant with the slouchier pants, the chunkier outers, etc. You're probably just picturing them in the wrong kind of outfit. Consider that some of these shoes offer some color too...

    One thing is for sure - the 'baller' designer sneaker thing is mostly over. This is just the world as it is outside of styleforum :lol: It was over before sq4you ever bought his first pair of baller sneakers, probably...


    Japanese magazines are tightly edited to cater to specific age groups, incomes, etc.

    The best expression of the styleforum 'baller' everything with a bit of luxury, a bit of workwear, a bit of everything, fewer colors, widest age range = SENSE magazine. European luxury brands, artisan brands, Japanese mid-high end like Junya, UC, Visvim, just a ton of labels mixed together in there. They have a new darling brand every month it seems, and most brands have passed through at some point before getting to styleforum discussion level later.

    HUGE magazine used to be good, and always chock full of high fashion editorials a few years ago, but they pretty much stopped. All of last year was 'tools' and artifacts, art and essays, and a lot of art tits, plus a few workwear and Americana items. Used to be a great magazine, now a waste of my $6 mostly. I can't read Japanese well enough to really want to read essays reprinted from their original English or some European language and there's only so many Araki pictures you want to look at before you get tired of B+W tits.

    Mens Non no - cheap low-end stuff mostly, nowadays. They used to have a lot more midrange stuff but I guess as more magazines come out, the focus has shifted to college age guys on limited budgets. 8 years ago I'd buy Non-no and they'd have a little Julius, V-A, some N. Hoolywood and stuff. Now it's more H+M and sub $200 stuff.

    OCEANS is a great magazine for older guys who find themselves in SW+D - the concept of the magazine is guys 37.5 and above (average readership age maybe) and is mostly street snaps from Omotesando of guys, often with their families, who are in their mid 30's, 40's, 50's, and 60's who are steezing. They are wearing a mix of SW+D labels but in a different way. Think Man of Kent's speed, sometimes a little edgier, but thousands of street snaps in tons of variations.

    Free and Easy - workwear and lifestyle, obviously. 'Rugged Factory' is a shop and a spinoff mag of F+E

    Men's Joker is a slight bit more upscale than Mens Non no, similar stuff though. Usually a couple pages of art tits at the end, which most of the rest don't have.

    Men's EX = styleforum MC hall of fame level shit

    LEON = MC age, more casual weekend casanova'ish stuff. Age 40-50+, with pretty good money.

    lots of good magazines, I usually buy all of them every month - I gave Dan a 100L trash bag full of 3 years worth of those when I left Korea too, there were maybe 500 magazines in there, lol.
     


  14. captainfunk

    captainfunk Senior member

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    I see people slangin Free & Easy occasionally stateside, but where could I actually get my hands on any of those magazines? Obviously ordering magazines via proxy is a pain, but is that the only way?
     


  15. modalsaliency

    modalsaliency Senior member

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    The is probably the most interesting part for me. I'm not particularly fond of Americana, but it has always billed itself as an extension of workmanship and wear rather than a pure aesthetic, as is the case with a lot of the neo-industrial nonsense that came out of Japan in the 90s and is still dribbling out into the new century. I don't know to what extent I buy into the style, but at the very least it's a sort of insurance for the future. Almost irrespective of what it actually ends up being, I think whatever evolves from the current take on reinterpreting workwear is likely to be a better thing in the overall schema of fashion than whatever could evolve from dropcrotch shorts, artificially shredded tees, and superfluous jutnecks.

    And there's nothing wrong with that. I like gothninja when it's more about minimalism and silhouettes than aggression. But the most insipid discussion I've seen online recently took place on SZ's waywt thread, which went on for five pages and was about whether wearing anything other than monochrome could "dilute" a look. It's juvenile. It places the endgame above the transition, and that's not a healthy way to do fashion.
     


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