TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. hurhur

    hurhur Senior member

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    it is, and that is lamb;

    to be really honest, I prefer lamb for everything. They're obviously not jackets for really riding a bike in, but lamb falls nicely on your right out of the box, you can wear it a little slimmer because it stretches and doesn't crease hard in your elbows or pits like the harder leathers do, and it looks really fucking cool when you have a Bomber in A-2 style but it's cut trimly, see what BoO is doing this season (and what I've done for 2 years now with the Bomber - I<3Bacon wears the very first prototype and wears it well, it may not even come across slimly enough in pics but it definitely is, because it was made for me [​IMG])
    The thick lamb we have (which is all of those colors except the red, which is mid-thickness) is something really nice, not run of the mill stuff. That's why I tend to use it on all sorts of things, like varsity jacket sleeves, coat trimmings, there will be more; it's 'ours' if anything were. Other makers make leathers in Korea here using the same garment leather sources that we do, like Geller, etc, but they don't step up the extra $1-2/square to the nicer lamb that we use, because a larger sized leather jacket with detailing can be 50 squares per jacket. They tend to stay with the thin Italian nappa hides that are more standard and run fairly cheaply, it's genuine leather as opposed to full on aniline dye leather like I prefer to use, which has a transparent, deep finish with several color layers and a full grain, as opposed to the painted-on opaque finish that covers blemished or split-down hides.



    yup, mine's the light grey lamb in A-2 style. true to what drew said, lamb just feels nicer when worn because it is so light yet durable. I only wear the calf varsity when I feel that it's going to rain or when it's really cold. also, lamb just ages so well, it feels like it gets softer with every wear. And when I saw what BoO did with the bomber, I was just thinking to myself, "I rocked that style one season ago." Just proves that the classics are always in style as with TOJ. my bomber may not look that slim, but when it is zipped up, it really fits like a glove. great job TOJ.
     


  2. obiter dictum

    obiter dictum Senior member

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    If it wasn't for slow customs I'd be chilling with my jawnz now [​IMG]
     


  3. Klemins

    Klemins Senior member

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    Damn, now you have me second guessing. I wanted calf so I really didn't have to worry about the jacket at all and so I potentially didn't have to buy another DR for many years. Sounds like your lamb is pretty sturdy though, so maybe I'll just go with that.
     


  4. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    calf is nice if you know what you're getting into, and need it (ie you're clumsy like me and run into stuff, treat your clothes like shit, etc) but really, the lamb is very nice and it comes into its own after it hits a bit of water, the grain shrinks a bit, some lanolin gets released, it looks really cool in a short amount of time and seems to stay that way. dizzhizz still wears a lamb that was the first production jacket and it's taken on some great patina, is reasonably tough, and has no significant damage despite daily wear for over a year straight.
     


  5. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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    If you're worried about damage get front quarter horse hide.
     


  6. laughter95

    laughter95 Senior member

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    now rethinking the moto. i'll be purchasing the chesterfield since i need it for work. but i would also like a less cumbersome jacket for the days that aren't terribly cold. a moto looks great for going out, but doesn't look right on work clothes.

    what jacket do you think works with most versatility? goes from the office to the bar to the lounge etc?
     


  7. willy cheesesteak

    willy cheesesteak Senior member

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  8. nahneun

    nahneun Uncle Nephew

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    now rethinking the moto. i'll be purchasing the chesterfield since i need it for work. but i would also like a less cumbersome jacket for the days that aren't terribly cold. a moto looks great for going out, but doesn't look right on work clothes. what jacket do you think works with most versatility? goes from the office to the bar to the lounge etc?
    for a leather? i'd say the bomber
     


  9. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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    ^Easy choice.

    +100000

    Motos and DRs are specialized pieces, IMO. Bombers are most versatile, and TOJ makes them not look too dad-like. [​IMG]
     


  10. AR_Six

    AR_Six "Sookie!"

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    Haven't been keeping up on this thread like I used to. I like the seabag, imagine that will take on a really nice patina over time. Any new stuff in the work leather-wise or are you guys pretty content with the moto/dr/bomber lineup for the time being?
     


  11. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    you can expect some new leather jackets very soon, to compliment what is out now. I'm here up at like 5:30, been charging my camera battery and sorting through some stuff so I can get the sample sale up (which will go up tomorrow at some point, it's not many pieces) but I had some thoughts on stuff lately that I should type out - a lot of questions I skipped over in recent pages because most really weren't too forward moving, but some comments from me: - as for varsity jackets - we obviously still get a lot of emails about these, and it's not that I don't want to make them, or that their cost strictly precludes manufacture, etc, the real issue at hand for me is that nobody really knows WTF is going on with these things - there's been 4-5 models, and everybody is talking about a different model. In fact, a few pages back there was a mild forum battle about set-in sleeve vs raglan, even though no more than a few people on earth have both of those to compare first-hand, if they did, there'd be no argument - the raglan is better. There's a lot of 'I wish you would make X model again' and 'is X going to be remade?' comments, but here's the honest truth - everything I make is slightly improved over the previous, which is why I don't make too much of the same. I learn and then make something else that is better instead, this is natural, since I just started doing this from scratch two years ago, and I try to stay away from doing something too similar twice so that stuff can stand apart. I literally woke up with nothing in my head beyond the idea of making a jacket two years ago, and it's gotten to a much more complex history of research and level of technique in my head now, two years later, and so that naturally goes into the clothes each time. To not add the research each time would be a disservice to everyone. So naturally, the raglan WV we made recently was easily the best varsity jacket I came up with to date - except the improvements weren't shouting out to people to notice them, and a lot of people missed that. I didn't even talk about it, really. Anyway, I have no hard feelings about that at all, I just don't understand the 'WTB TOJ 1.5' stuff, etc. There's a hypebeast thread that I don't post in, and some guy who has a history of buying and flipping TOJ varsity jackets commented that the new stuff is less quality than the old stuff - which is completely baseless and uninformed. I don't want to go into the amateur debate on quality here - I know about the clothes I make, I pay more each time because I put more stuff into them and get more work done to them each time. Someone asked why I discontinue stuff here and there as I want to - that's twofold. On one hand I have to contend to supply chains for making this stuff, and that stuff comes and goes very randomly. It can be seasonal material, it can a limited supply of material I have access to and when it's gone, it's gone (often our markets stock their floor space with extra runoff of custom orders from unrelated bigger entities than myself, and so there's finite supply there) etc, etc, etc. The other factor in this is that I prefer that people understand what it is they're getting thoroughly - what they can reasonably expect the product to look like when they get it, what it's gonna fit like, etc. By keeping it in a range of pages current to the thread, I feel like people know better what it is they're gonna get. That really doesn't have to do with leather jackets so much, and any problems we've had were really only ever related to a couple people and their varsity jackets (one extra stripe on the trim, anyone? [​IMG]) but it really is a hassle and so I want the order process to be more akin to getting a white menu at a restaurant, and you order what you want, and my job is to pour everything into the product. I like it that way. It's not very conventional nor confidence building I guess, it's a leap of faith, but I think by now there's enough feedback out there as to whether I deliver the goods. To me, if someone entrusts me to a do a good job, and I come through on that, then I enjoy that a lot more than fishing a bunch of glossy photos on a website for people and hyping shit up. I still get entertained when I send packages out and you guys come back and say they exceed expectations - that's what I have always aimed to do. So to the first part about varsity jackets, they did hit an uncomfortable point - the point where they went through a first phase and then hit the second where they were hype and all name (and for a good reason I believe) and they started becoming misunderstood, and that is not what I wanted, obviously. I don't mind being known as the brand that has nice varsity jackets, I just think it's also obvious that I want to make other stuff as well, and that the other stuff is even nicer. The fishtails were mainly ordered by people who've gotten things from us before, many by guys who have been there since the very beginning - so I enjoyed seeing that when I sent them out at the post because I think when they got the parkas they probably realized how far this thing has come along. They're on so many levels higher than anything else I've done so far. The beginning of the year moved slowly shipping wise - we had a couple weeks of vacation that were out of our hands, so that fucked everything up. Stuff shipped slowly. I am sorry about that. Everything is reasonably up to date now as for our logs, we shipped quite a number of pieces recently. Unfortunately if we get popular, the only choice is for longer waits - we still make everything at the same pace in the same way, so the back side stays the same, they just have more work waiting for them when they finish something. WIth the two holidays it made it a lot worse, so I'm sorry that things got backed up and I'm glad it's not backed up anymore. [​IMG] Last thing I was mulling over for the past few weeks was the loyalty program idea - I have announced my $30 referral credit program previously, but I need to have a loyalty program in place as well, so I broke down my numbers and this is what I can do: TOJ loyalty program: We will have a virtual stamp card, it's very simple. Silver and gold clubs, if you will - the first level is 5 TOJ items previously ordered from us, you get an automatic 7.5% off future totals. The second level is 10 TOJ items previously ordered from us, you get an automatic 15%. I guess there could be a platinum 15+ piece level someday but no one is close to that yet just yet. [​IMG] There are a lot of people already in the silver club and a few in the gold club, though, and many people are close. I'm only including outers for now, previous shirt orders and sample sale items do not count towards your total, but this starts with the TOJ0 to present. If sending a mail to Charly about this, tell him what you got and he'll check on it and set up your virtual loyalty card account. If you bought something from me in 2009 before Charly started doing emails, have him check with me - there were a couple weeks at the very beginning where I hadn't set up the TOJ gmail, but I remember all you guys from that time and have handwritten log books into 2010, so no worries.
     


  12. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Lol, wall of text.
     


  13. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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  14. Lupo

    Lupo Well-Known Member

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    Quick question will the Fishtail be available next winter...do not have funds currently but want one.....Thanks..hope my question wasnt answered in the essay written above.
     


  15. wj4

    wj4 Senior member

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    To me, if someone entrusts me to a do a good job, and I come through on that, then I enjoy that a lot more than fishing a bunch of glossy photos on a website for people and hyping shit up. I still get entertained when I send packages out and you guys come back and say they exceed expectations - that's what I have always aimed to do.


    Unfortunately if we get popular, the only choice is for longer waits - we still make everything at the same pace in the same way, so the back side stays the same, they just have more work waiting for them when they finish something.

    Last thing I was mulling over for the past few weeks was the loyalty program idea - I have announced my $30 referral credit program previously, but I need to have a loyalty program in place as well, so I broke down my numbers and this is what I can do:

    TOJ loyalty program:
    We will have a virtual stamp card, it's very simple. Silver and gold clubs, if you will - the first level is 5 TOJ items previously ordered from us, you get an automatic 7.5% off future totals. The second level is 10 TOJ items previously ordered from us, you get an automatic 15%. I guess there could be a platinum 15+ piece level someday but no one is close to that yet just yet. [​IMG] There are a lot of people already in the silver club and a few in the gold club, though, and many people are close. I'm only including outers for now, previous shirt orders and sample sale items do not count towards your total, but this starts with the TOJ0 to present.
    If sending a mail to Charly about this, tell him what you got and he'll check on it and set up your virtual loyalty card account. If you bought something from me in 2009 before Charly started doing emails, have him check with me - there were a couple weeks at the very beginning where I hadn't set up the TOJ gmail, but I remember all you guys from that time and have handwritten log books into 2010, so no worries.


    If your aim, or I should say mission statement, stays the same...you will always have a cult following. Customer service is #1.

    I'm glad to hear there won't be shortcuts taken (that may compromise the quality) to make the wait time shorter if/when you guys become more popular.

    In regards to the loyalty program, very nice!
     


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