TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. Razele

    Razele Senior member

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    Dbear big difference in making a moto style jacket of which is more a creative commons styling, with infinite companies making them since WW2 and Margiela in the last ten to fifteen years being the only small, limited production company doing that particular design.

    People just want a Margiela 5 zip without paying for one
     


  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    How about a more TOJesque version like a raglan sleeve 5 zip in the same vein as what monitaly has been selling for a couple of seasons - but in lambskin leather

    [​IMG]
     


  3. chaos

    chaos Senior member

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    +1
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2011


  4. jeo

    jeo Member

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    Thanks! Your jacket looks sick!

    And don't even stress the fit. A slight alteration and your golden. Just don't take too much off man...if you do, the backside will hug your back and the sleeves might end up looking disproportionate to the rest of the jacket.

    Heres some down and dirty photoshoping. This is probably the tightest you would want on the back.
    [​IMG]

    This whiskey calf is fucking amazing. You really need to see and touch it in person to fully appreciate it. I don't think people realize how thick and heavy it is. I used to own a 3oz FQHH LW Ryder and its practically the same thickness. It truly needs to be slightly roomy or it will hurt to move, which Drew explained in the post about the VTG. And with wear it will break in and look a lot better on your body. Also, I'm assuming like with most other real leathers that water will only help it. Drew, would you say this is accurate?

    I saw someone said they thought my cm was too big on me, but honestly its too tight in the upper body, and any tighter and shorter on the backside and it will start looking ridiculous. The only thing I would change on mine is taking off about a 0.5" from the front length. Everything else is perfect. Which is weird because it measures out to a little less then 20.5", which is exactly the measurement I provided that looks great on me on all my other jackets...I guess theres another measurement at play here that is effecting the front length. I'll do a full on review and post more photos and fit pics as soon as theres a sunny day out.
     


  5. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    If the Lost Worlds was 3oz, the TOJ is actually thicker, we are at around 1.5-1.6mm on most of the leathers, which is technically 4oz. That doesn't play out that way in real life as everything has different densities and weight by area is a dumb idea for leather, but yeah 3 oz is only 1.2mm and we're almost always above that for all the leathers.
     


  6. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    I wouldn't want to do that man, the '/ | \' 八の字 pattern is so implanted as being a Margiela thing (whether it is MMM's original design, I'd highly doubt, but I digress...) - anything using that motif is instantly linked to the jacket.

    I don't mind not making the MMM 5-zip or trying to use it to my advantage. It just exists, it's out there for people who want one to buy, it's like $2000-2500 for a decent black one nowadays - just something else. I like my TOJ Moto design; I think it's really come into it's own in the 3rd version. All the details on it have their reason for being, and I like that. It makes sense.
     


  7. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Yes, pretty much - and re: the Julius X Gordini jacket with the / | \ motif - Julius basically came out and said they lifted that from Margiela, lol. I think it doesn't flow nearly as well in the fitted Julius style, there's something about combining 1) 1950's style rider's construction, 2) the / | \ design, and 3) the right MRS zippers to make the effect blown-out and Margiela-esque (this was coming off his time in the 90's when he was inflating everything proportionally, like right after that collection where he made 1960's doll clothes magnified to real life sizes) - the YKK versions definitely lose that, and the jacket hasn't been the same.

    There is a GalaabenD version this season of a 5zip made with Riri zippers, it's about $1600 here, but it straight sucks because they use a 2" long zipper heavily Riri-branded zipper pull (not sure of the code name for the pull but I could look it up) all over the whole thing, it's way exaggerated. It has the banded hem and cuff like a TOJ Moto, the / | \ motif, but these grotesque zippers that ruin the entire thing. Somehow it's so close yet one of the worst leather jackets I've ever seen.
     


  8. snowmanxl

    snowmanxl Senior member

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    but are they the same as when drew bought his? i dont think ive ever seen one as nice as drews, recently. (although the fact that its aged and well worn might add to this)
     


  9. GSafternoon

    GSafternoon Well-Known Member

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    so can you give us an update on the rumored "shorter hooded winter jacket"...did the sample meet your quality standards?
     


  10. tween_spirit

    tween_spirit Senior member

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    I think the 5-zip design is great, here is that Monitaly one I posted in the should-I-or-shouldn't-I thread. It's a waxy brown calf with wool knit collar, cuffs, and waist. Same as above but leather. I love that it's a small shawl collar instead of a moto one. :slayer:

    You're also limited to having the / \ zippers either all the way up or all the way down, it's like the opposite of the MMM one with regards to that. Unless you want giant pockets I guess.

    [​IMG]

    I actually had no idea it was originally a MMM design, but i'd be interested to see even more designers take on it for sure, even if Drew won't (unfortunately) be one of them :(
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2011


  11. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    did not. Turns out there was 2 and they're not ready. I just came back from Seoul a few weeks ago but I may have to go again in a few days to see if I can fix them up. Would like to put them out, but if they're not up to nick they're just not gonna be released. I don't put them out unless the recipe works on it's own and can be assembled by the team.
     


  12. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    In my eyes, that just looks dumb for a lot of obvious reasons. If the TOJ Moto with the public domain cafe racer design and TOJ detailing could considered austere and relatively modest for the purpose, which I think it can at times now, then this is basically the opposite.
     


  13. fungz0r

    fungz0r Senior member

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    Drew, what happens to the prototypes you don't approve of? Are they just thrown away?
     


  14. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    One of my stylistic inspirations, (and this is a Youtube music video that will interest no one via the music, so you should mute your computer) is this; this was something I saw on TV multiple times as a 12 or 13 year old and I just could not stop thinking about what I'd seen - cotton collared shirt under a black leather rider's jacket. It obviously still gets me bothered til this day, the interface of textures, motifs, softness vs hardness between just the two pieces of clothing - greatness, even in the style-dead 1990's.

     


  15. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Yeah there's a dead letter room of TOJ's that will never be seen beyond the 3 of us.
     


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