Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.
I believe the Temple will save me from overspending on a Junya varsity.
I dunno. You can get a nice cardboard leather and shitty material Junya for the price of like 3 TOJ's or the price of a couple different TOJ's, or just a TOJ.
Some things about the coats -
I dunno, seem to have lost my magic prototyping touch this year, maybe the tailor is also not in his creative groove, but I wasn't happy with the prototypes for the duffle and fishtail, and a secret piece we're working on. I showed you guys the Duffle prototype #1 and you saw how that was, so you probably have an idea of how I'm feeling. Things are there, but the small things need a bit of remixing.
Anyway, on the Duffle, since you guys have seen that, and weighed in with your own opinions, here's my responses and how the final model will look:
- the hood is big enough. The front of the hood comes up over your mouth the hood looks a little small, but that's just the camera angle and how the coat was sitting.
-the little horn on the wrist, I like. It's also a classical duffle coat feature, so I will keep that. There will be a second horn there for making the wrists tighter but nobody will actually use that feature. There's just vestiges of tradition on clothing sometimes, and they're fine to stick around for aesthetic purposes. Calling out things as non-functional all the time would lead to some very boring looking clothes. No comment on the fact that pretty much all trendy menswear nowadays is based around tons of 'functional-looking but not that usable detailing from traditional clothing that serves no purpose but the aesthetic'
The pockets, however, will change - as I'd mentioned before, I will remove those pocket flaps and in their stead, the top edge of the patch pocket will get an elegant edging of leather. It'd be no thicker than one of the leather 'lips' on a varsity or Peacoat pocket. So there, we've toned down the leather accent quite a bit while being able to keep it.
The yoke was also kinda different from how I wanted it - the front pieces of the yoke have a little angle to them; they will be straight across on the production model.
That's about it for changes on that Duffle. It will be a nice little coat and pretty warm with the quilt inside if you opt for that.
The fishtail, we made a prototype, I didn't like it and it wasn't what I was going for - probably the first time in a long time that me and the tailor have had such a miscommunication or disconnect on something, it has been bothering me for the past few days and I just ignored it for a bit. Anyway, my solution to that - we will be basing the 2011 Fishtail on the one from last year, but it'll just get tweaked so that the back will be a little longer, and that's about that. Same as ever, like the Peacoat.
You were saying?
Argh, I love duffles too much. Last years model in cracked pepper was perfect, this years model in medium grey would be just as bad ass in a completely different way.
This may have been discussed before, but a search pulled up nothing.
I know it's a highly subjective subject, but how warm is the lamb leather? Will I be able to wear it in the UK Winter, where the temperature typically hovers around 0-5 celsius?
First snow here, need to kop a coat. Duffle or fishtail? Would love to see a fitpic of new duffle
^ Where in MN?
The toj peacoat is a masterpiece, hopefully people don't sleep so hard this year.
UK winters are probably similar to Japanese winter, doesn't really get cold here properly til February, so rather mild really. These kinds of questions are obviously subject to one's personal constitution and how quickly you get cold, how much you sweat, etc. With proper layering and a thermal layer, like a knit over shirt, over a heat tech, or something like that, the lamb is fine if you expect it to be a windshell. It's not much more than that, but that alone is often fine if you just wear a knit and a tee til about 0 deg C, I find. YMMV
Fit pics.... are no longer going to really be part of TOJ offerings, I feel. We are all at separate stations now, and the pieces are made from established patterns - the dimensions and materials don't really change highly from year to year, so the silhouettes and fits are essentially the same. You can visit those in the gallery. The detailing changes here and there, but that should be easy enough to visualize, most of that is superficial.
I'm pretty surprised most people don't have the TOJ look burned into their consciousness by now; it consists of a square-shouldered rider's jacket look (DR, Moto, variations of the two) a similar but ribbed-bottom Bomber jacket (to include the Harringtons, the MA-1, the varsity jackets), a rarer raglan sleeve short ribbed cuff jacket, and then a peacoat, a duffle, and a fishtail. It's not complicated, and as I said, the pieces don't really change as much as the effect that different wearers give the the pieces.
Thanks for the updates Drew.
Feeling better in touch with my core lately and I feel like writing, maybe explaining things better, so talk to me, dudes.
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