Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.
For those that ordered, should we be expecting some pics of some of the whisky calf jackets soon...?
yes, as a reminder of my philosophy I guess - TOJ sizing, the house cut, the default fit and style, whatever you want to call it - I like a long, broad shoulder look, with long sleeves - so to achieve that, we push the shoulders out as far as they can go and then drop the sleeves straight down, and then go to where the wrist widens for straight cut jackets/coats, or give a half break on ribbed cuff jackets. It's more attractive looking to be more relaxed and broad shouldered, longer-sleeved, than to be bound in by jacket shoulders by trying to make them ride, or having precisely cut short sleeves. These are casual clothes, don't show cuff, don't make shoulders ride.
My idea on this is basically that yes, slim and fitted is cool looking sometimes, but that applies mostly to runway model guys who are impossibly slim in real world terms, with personally tailored clothing to match- but in the real world, most guys will do better if the main thing you're fitting is the shoulders so they don't droop, the pits and torso widths so that they don't balloon, and the lengths so that they don't make you look like a kid in adult clothing. You do want to give off a wide shouldered, slightly natural sleeve look.
The stuff that people get way tight on their own volition, I don't know how long that will last them, tbh - but if you stick with a TOJ house fit, it won't be shrink wrapped, but you'll be able to bring it out of the closet year after year, and I guarantee you the fit will just seem friendly and welcoming. For men, nobody really needs to see your form via outerwear, outerwear is a shell.
For leather jackets, shoulders are about the same as your natural front shoulder span. Those are MTM so you can go to the tenths place, though that isn't really necessary or measurable, half inches are fine. You can't really measure tenths on any of the measurements, half inches are fine everywhere.
For coats, about the same, maybe less a tenth or two, but we go in inch increments, so that the top of the sleeve head rounds over your arm, but not your shoulder, if necessary.
The shell part reminds me of Yohji Yamamoto's idea of clothes being 'protection' for body not making it vulnerable.
yeah and that's on the extreme end - I am not pushing people to go baggy, I just feel like maybe it's me and Charly's job to make sure you reconcile 'slim' and reality - there's a great middle ground that can make you look good, and then there's the foreground where shit is too tight and you look like a weenus - Band of Outsiders worn too tight by amateurs comes to mind there.
Slim leather jackets obviously look amazing - it's great to see arm accordians and a subtle pec outline when it's zipped up - but you can achieve that without the Batman shrink wrapped look.
Coats, you don't really need to show your form in - it's your chance to manipulate your form, really. That is what i mean by a shell. Dial in what you want to show, tone down what you don't - everybody can look good, or honestly better than they do otherwise. That is the beauty of tailoring.
My morning ritual:
Get out of bed, sprint to computer to check email for shipping verification, cry for 15 minutes, take shower.
^ why not cry in the shower?
Why not check email AND cry in the shower? that's what the zipper bags are for QWERTY ftw
Re: leather sizing, I feel like we did a pretty near-perfect job on the Uncontrol Rider. I am still a bit unsure about the sleeves; it seems like the area at the elbow is just way too wide and it sort of "bags" up when my arms are at my side, but I will wait a bit more for the leather to settle before I decide whether or not to take it in.
fack, I thought I had the patent on ziploc bags and email devices, you guys do that too? I was calling it my 'redneck iPad case'
where the fuck are the pictures, asshat
Any bombers shipping this week? I'm at 6 weeks now since I ordered
worried about how i sized the moto now
I wouldnt be too worried. I got measured by Drew himself, and got the same thing going on in my elbows. Probably a measure to lessen the weirdness of elbow bulge when they stretch due to movement?
just curious why u would say that? does the proportions seem off? i don't work out or anything, but do play lots of ultimate (frisbee sport for those not in the know )
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