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TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. reedobandito

    reedobandito Senior member

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    Portland!
    

    Synth, would love to see you try bedouin steez
     
  2. malaujai

    malaujai Senior member

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    Jan 20, 2011
    Location:
    Toronto
    just got my a2... long wait but completely worth it!

    also pretty happy with how it fits and the measurements.. thanks drew :D

    pics probably tonight or tomorrow
     
  3. vaalbara

    vaalbara Senior member

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    DC
    

    drew already explained this, the shearling for the bomber isn't as expensive because it only has to look good on the shearling side, not the hide side

    now can you please shut the fuck up about shearling?
     
  4. GSafternoon

    GSafternoon Well-Known Member

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    really annoying when you see 50 unread posts on the TOJ thread, think its people blowing up about a dope fit, or a new release, only to find its woodyear douching around...
     
    3 people like this.
  5. reedobandito

    reedobandito Senior member

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    Seriously, SHUT THE FUCK UP.

    You're the first person to go on my ban list, conrgratufuckinglations
     
  6. ekim31

    ekim31 Active Member

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    T.O.
    

    Im a 40" chest and I got a 50 with shortened sleeves and increased the shoulders a bit if anything.
    Looks better unzipped, for now :blush:
     
  7. brad-t

    brad-t Senior member

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    x-post

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    9 people like this.
  8. bows1

    bows1 Senior member

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    oh no you did the head shave thing, thats so three years ago, at least this wave of it is
     
  9. GBear

    GBear Senior member

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    LA, CA
    New haircut? Jacket looking better with wear.
     
  10. brad-t

    brad-t Senior member

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    don't give a fuck. i'm all about STYLE not FASHION
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. bows1

    bows1 Senior member

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    I mean, I think it looks better than your old hair cut, but its just that like a year ago every girl in my neighborhood had that, so its played out to me :/ I dunno how it is in Canada
     
  12. brad-t

    brad-t Senior member

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    according to initial observations, my count of dudes with shaved sides wearing anaconda jackets is at a trendy-but-not-played-out 7

    idk i just wanted to try something new, i saw a guy with a similar haircut in a show and thought it looked cool. my girlfriend touches it a lot so ace.
     
  13. bows1

    bows1 Senior member

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    I must admit the people I've seen it on are 99% girls. You are the 1% :D
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2011
  14. brad-t

    brad-t Senior member

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    this is the greatest jacket ever made btw. i fucking love it.
     
  15. omgcookielol

    omgcookielol Senior member

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    Wait what? Did I miss a post? That doesnt sound like something Drew would say. Im pretty sure it doesn't affect the pricepoint of the jacket because that jacket maker provides the shearling as part of their agreement.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2011
  16. laughter95

    laughter95 Senior member

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    i'm part of the 1% as well. but my hairstyle isn't as aggressive/long as uncontrol's vampire/rocker look
     
  17. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    I explained in my last 10 or 15 posts that shearling is all different and has different prices based on the amount of processing in it and grade it is.

    If I walked up to a sheep with a knife and took it's skin off, hung that up and washed the blood off it, and then did some basic bleaching or dying, trimming of the pile, then you end up with the kind of shearling that goes into Uggs, or the shearling part of the TOJ A2 collar, or the Aero jacket Woodyear keeps thinking is 'SHEARLING' - this costs about $4 a square to me. The back side is not presentable as a jacket. It's just blasted on the leather side to get the guts off it and to rough up the finish so that it's uniform.

    If I did that and then basically took paint and painted over the leather side of that, it'd be crinkly and a bit hard but look like leather on that side. That is what goes into that $350 Pakistani shearling mentioned like 50 posts back. It's very rudimentary in terms of leather processing. This is also only worth about 4 bucks a square.

    If I take that hide, find that it has a particularly choice grain and is free of flaws, and the leather is of thick stock I can process that even more or even bond lambskin to it and make it so that it's fine leather on one side and then nice shearling pile on the other. This stuff is beautiful and when you see it, you know it's gonna be more expensive. It's about $15 a square.

    Other things to consider:

    -A jacket requires between 45-55 squares; a shearling would require that plus more non-shearling leather to trim it and cover the seams (they are exposed otherwise, as there is no lining in a shearling. The seams are on the outside)
    -'regular' lambskin jackets that TOJ makes cost $200 or more for the leather alone, it's $4 a square. That does not include labor, shipping, or other materials that go into the jacket.
    -As always, TOJ is made by the same people in Seoul, and wages for individual contractors we use are multiple times higher than the factory workers Woodyear keeps referring to as being paid more. I didn't know Woodyear was a fed and was getting reports on this kind of stuff, but he's way off base. I can tell you that a TOJ leather jacket takes almost one whole day to make, even if you're making several of the same color/material. It's almost a whole shift, and averages out to be that way in terms of production. What would you expect for a day's work, in a country where houses sell and rent at alpha world city prices? Korea is exceedingly expensive, it is not 1955 anymore. FWIW they are paid per jacket as a 'job' per order, and get a triple figure dollar amount for each, in labor alone. I find it hard to believe that anything factory made like a Schott or Aero is made by people making that much money per jacket they complete. Langlitz is made in a garage in Oregon or something, with a pricepoint almost double that of TOJ, so he is definitely making a lot for his labor. In the end though, it'd be ignorant as fuck to think any of these situations are the same.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2011
  18. aether

    aether Senior member

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    are you kidding? you have that hair cut. synth has that hair cut. all the fuckin cool dudes have that hair cut right now, look at the recent NY Times article...
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2011
  19. Uncontrolled needs to stop posting pictures lest he forces me to buy a double rider myself.
     
  20. laughter95

    laughter95 Senior member

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    374
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    Aug 15, 2008
    

    as an auditor, the transparency and disclosure is much appreciated.
     

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