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TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. halisray

    halisray Senior member

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    Montreal
    Crump, When I first received my bomber, and when I put it on, I had a feeling that it was just way too tight and that I spent $600 on a jacket that doesnt fit me. I found the ribbing to be mega tight, of which I had to pull together with force in order to zip it up. I felt the upper torso and shoulders very restrictive and could barely move. Here is when I first got the coat: https://toj.pixi.me/v/toj_bomber_fw10/halisray.jpg.html (was extremely stiff and tight) I was on the verge of selling it when I just told myself, fuck it I'll keep it and wear it in. Leather needs to be worn in, it needs to stretch. And that is exactly what it did. It stretched (not fast, but over time it does stretch) and now I can move my arms a lot more freely and I don't have such a tough time putting it on anymore. And I can layer it without feeling like I'm going to suffocate. (https://toj.pixi.me/v/toj_bomber_fw1...y_009.jpg.html) It is up to you what you want to do with your bomber, but all I'm saying is that the fit is supposed to be tight at first, it is a slim cut, that is what TOJ offers. But then the jacket does loosen up the more you wear it, you need to wear it a lot, move around in it, work the leather. If you don't want to do that then sell it.
     
  2. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    looks like i'm the first to post from the batch of bombers that went out Friday of last week


    i feel like ppl on here are gonna tell me the fit looks great but i feel it's a tad small...to the point that it's uncomfortable and difficult to put on

    i feel like the body is smaller than what i ordered

    i ordered a 48 w/ the shoulders bumped up to a 49 and the sleeve circumference sized down to a 48

    i measured the pit to pit at 20.75" when the chart says 21.5" [​IMG]

    the pit to pit is small enough that i have to stick both of my arms almost straight up in the air to put them in the sleeves

    the waist seems real slim as well...i am a 32-33 waist and i have to stretch the banded waist to be able to zip it at the bottom

    also, you can see how it's so slim at the waist it kind of follows the contour of my lower back about half way up my back

    any thoughts/opinions, SF?


    Well, here's what I think man:

    - generally, from your pictures, it looks fine. It looks big, in fact. I think the shoulders are a size big, actually. Can't see much in the chest with it zipped up, but that line of reflection going down from the shoulder across the chest makes it look like there's some give and extra room in there as well. A zipped up, tight fitting jacket usually can't do that. Refer to, say, flyguy7's Bomber fit, which really is tight.
    I actually wear the Bomber fairly loose really, and when zipped you can see the outline of my chest pretty clearly, so I think what you're describing is high armholes and not a chest problem.
    -as for the measurements; well, your 20.75" as measured could very well be 21.5 in the pattern; that is .75".... which is not a lot. Divide that by two for the two separate sides and you're at 0.375", which is probably not as wide as those two hard seams that run up the sides (those are included in the measurement) - and then beyond that, know that while there's measurements, those are expected to be approximate and there is a small margin for discrepancy for anything hand made to order - not because of error, but patterns for clothing are made certain ways. If one thing gets adjusted, everything has to be adjusted, because all the lines in the shape have to connect, right? In any case, I don't think the problem you're having is p2p, it's that the jacket has high armholes. With slimmer sleeves, come slimmer armholes. As for the back, you let the back ride up to where it sits naturally, that is the style of these jackets. They can't be expected to wrap around the top of your butt and stay there when sitting or walking, they'll ride back up to where they can naturally sit anyway.
     
  3. Biggen

    Biggen Senior member

    Messages:
    983
    Joined:
    May 12, 2009
    Location:
    Oslo, Norway (but I'm Swedish)
    Just picked up my jacket from the post office. Took less then 3 weeks from order to delivery, will be expecting this lead time with all my future orders[​IMG] The fit is great, now I just have to decide if I should go with a navy blouson or if it's worth the upcharge to order it in green.

    And the mandatory pictures.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Pretty damn perfect
     
  5. Crump's Brother

    Crump's Brother Senior member

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    Mar 26, 2010
    It's a pretty good fit, fits like a toj bomber should. Sounds like you should have ordered a more traditional "dad" fit in another brand instead of going toj.

    believe me, the fit i am going for is not gonna be a "dad" fit

    if you've ever tried on a leather jacket at Macy's or similar department stores around the $600 range that's what you would consider a "dad" fit

    i don't want the "skinny" fit on my bomber...and if you look at that waist it is just too tight...it measures a full inch less than it is supposed to at the waist

    when my waist is already 32-33 inches and i have boxers, pants, and a thick belt on it's just too restrictive...it should be comfortable when i move a round...i don't want to bend over and then have to pull my jacket back down because it's above my waist

    the chest, if i have my arms laying straight at my side and try to move them behind my back by moving my shoulder blades closer together it gets tight at the chest just moving them back 4 or 5 inches

    if i'm just wearing a shirt it's not too difficult to put on...but wearing a light sweatshirt or sweater underneath to layer...only a contortionist could easily put it on

    i know the leather will give stretch and give some but i don't want it to be too tight and make the seems loose...what if they come apart over time or rip? maybe it could be sent back and fixed or i could find someone in my area and pay to have it fix but that would be a hassle and if that happens that means that it really is too small

    furthermore, i don't want something too tight because i've been going to the gym...not to do cardo though, but to lift weights...mostly upper body work outs

    i tried it on w/ my other jeans which have wider legs as well as my chinos and the fit is a bit unbalanced...especially when i put on my red wing boots which have a bulbous toe

    i know some people say that it's supposed to be slim or it's not supposed to fit relaxed and toj maybe isn't for me but the great thing about MTM is you can have it fit how you choose...custom fit specifically for your body which varies person to person

    and i feel there's a difference between "skinny" and "slim" as far as fits are concerned...both terms are a bit subjective but that isn't really an issue when you're actually dealing with the measurements for chest, waist, sleeve, length, etc.

    kinda feel like i got this fit:

    https://toj.pixi.me/v/toj_bomber_fw10/dibango.jpg.html

    when i wanted something more like this fit:

    https://toj.pixi.me/v/toj_bomber_fw10/Schpacko.jpg.html

    and in those pics one guy looks comfortable, and one guy doesn't

    sorry for the novel

    [​IMG]
     
  6. GBear

    GBear Senior member

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    LA, CA
    Pretty damn perfect

    +1
     
  7. shibbel

    shibbel Senior member

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    huh?
    Your jacket looks over-sized to me too.
     
  8. MikkoN

    MikkoN Senior member

    Messages:
    176
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2008
    Hej torsk!
    That's bang on!
    Better be happy with that.
     
  9. GBear

    GBear Senior member

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    Location:
    LA, CA
    believe me, the fit i am going for is not gonna be a "dad" fit

    if you've ever tried on a leather jacket at Macy's or similar department stores around the $600 range that's what you would consider a "dad" fit

    i don't want the "skinny" fit on my bomber...and if you look at that waist it is just too tight...it measures a full inch less than it is supposed to at the waist

    when my waist is already 32-33 inches and i have boxers, pants, and a thick belt on it's just too restrictive...it should be comfortable when i move a round...i don't want to bend over and then have to pull my jacket back down because it's above my waist

    the chest, if i have my arms laying straight at my side and try to move them behind my back by moving my shoulder blades closer together it gets tight at the chest just moving them back 4 or 5 inches

    if i'm just wearing a shirt it's not too difficult to put on...but wearing a light sweatshirt or sweater underneath to layer...only a contortionist could easily put it on

    i know the leather will give stretch and give some but i don't want it to be too tight and make the seems loose...what if they come apart over time or rip? maybe it could be sent back and fixed or i could find someone in my area and pay to have it fix but that would be a hassle and if that happens that means that it really is too small

    furthermore, i don't want something too tight because i've been going to the gym...not to do cardo though, but to lift weights...mostly upper body work outs

    i tried it on w/ my other jeans which have wider legs as well as my chinos and the fit is a bit unbalanced...especially when i put on my red wing boots which have a bulbous toe

    i know some people say that it's supposed to be slim or it's not supposed to fit relaxed and toj maybe isn't for me but the great thing about MTM is you can have it fit how you choose...custom fit specifically for your body which varies person to person

    and i feel there's a difference between "skinny" and "slim" as far as fits are concerned...both terms are a bit subjective but that isn't really an issue when you're actually dealing with the measurements for chest, waist, sleeve, length, etc.

    kinda feel like i got this fit:

    https://toj.pixi.me/v/toj_bomber_fw10/dibango.jpg.html

    when i wanted something more like this fit:

    https://toj.pixi.me/v/toj_bomber_fw10/Schpacko.jpg.html

    and in those pics one guy looks comfortable, and one guy doesn't

    sorry for the novel

    [​IMG]


    Lol at seams comment. Anyway, like others have said, the ribbing is stiff at first and needs to be worn in. And you're probably not used to wearing high armholes.

    It definitely does not look like a skinny fit. Just curious, what did you tell Charly when he asked you what type of fit you wanted?
     
  10. Dbear

    Dbear Senior member

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    San Francisco, CA
    Fit looks alright to me, but might need some better pictures to really tell.

    Is it calf? The shoulders look good, so maybe it just needs some break in time and it'll loosen up a little and drape better.

    Also, that picture you posted of what you wanted the fit to be like was @ 6 months of wear.
     
  11. clark kent

    clark kent Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 6, 2010
    Lol at seams comment. Anyway, like others have said, the ribbing is stiff at first and needs to be worn in. And you're probably not used to wearing high armholes. It definitely does not look like a skinny fit. Just curious, what did you tell Charly when he asked you what type of fit you wanted?
    seems like this dude probably went against what charly suggested. or just didnt ask him for sizing suggestions at all.
     
  12. PaulYAY

    PaulYAY Senior member

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    1,471
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    Apr 26, 2009
    Location:
    Michigan
    I think Crumps bad fit stems from the fact that he has hardly any drop. I had a similar fit problem with mine because of this. The cut is a V shape so if you don't have much of a drop, it really puts the squeeze on the waist area and looks terrible.
     
  13. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    did Dbear just post after Gbear? [​IMG] (I was being serious about the seams as well, Gbear - the measurements start right at the hidden seam [​IMG] that's where the line is drawn on the leather)
     
  14. jakekrait

    jakekrait Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    51
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    Sep 10, 2009
    Have you shipped any Quilt DR's yet?
     
  15. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    The other thing I need to address is color availability, here is the record, uncut:

    Calf suede colors for the two new suede items are:
    -Blue, Red, Beige, and Medium Grey. There is no light grey, there is no brown.

    Lamb suede colors are quite numerous and we don't have a record of which is which, and some hides come up too short for certain individual orders, so we don't have a set list of these. GDL is like 6'3 or something and has been too tall for a few of the exact colors he initially chose for lamb suede previously, so we had to go back and forth on colors, a couple other guys as well. lamb suede hides are a bit short. lamb leather is much bigger, and I don't know why.


    As for what the blue looks like (yes I wasn't ignoring that denning) -
    uhhhh this is kind of a stupid comparison, but it's like BMW's Avus Blue or Interlagos Blue from the M cars, something like that, except not so vivid because it's dyed and a transparent finish on the leather. Definitely Avus Blue or Interlagos vs something like Estoril Blue like you used to see on the old M3. That's about the best way I can think of describing it off the top of my head.
     
  16. Dbear

    Dbear Senior member

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    did Dbear just post after Gbear? [​IMG] (I was being serious about the seams as well, Gbear - the measurements start right at the hidden seam [​IMG] that's where the line is drawn on the leather)
    I know, confusing. The only way to tell us apart is that I'm a pair of shoes and he's a gangsta gun-totin fire pokemon of some sort. [​IMG]
     
  17. Crump's Brother

    Crump's Brother Senior member

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    Mar 26, 2010
    i told Charly i wanted a slim fit but able to layer underneath (light sweatshirt or sweater)

    but i don't think that's all that relevant when dealing with the actual measurements

    after getting measurements from a lady who does alterations he suggested a 48 w/ slightly shortened sleeves

    i wanted to get from a professional tailor just to be more confident about the fit and Charly suggested a lengthened 47 (48 body length)

    i went w/ a 48 w/ 49 shoulders and 47 sleeve circumference

    but the main areas of concern are the chest and waist which measure less than the measurements of a 48

    these chest fits between a 46 and 47, and the waist fits a 46
     
  18. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Have you shipped any Quilt DR's yet?

    not yet, I cut off a 'group 1' of orders made within a certain time frame, then within that put all the 2011 DRs first, collared Motos second, Quilt and Band collar DRs after those, because of quantity/colors/patterning. This is the fastest way to get them done, and group 1 is getting done fairly quickly. Same styles in one grouping = 3 jackets per day production, All different styles = less than 1.5 jackets a day.

    I don't know the real names behind most of the screen names, but I know wj4's jacket shipped, Emilo's did (you two guys I need to send tracking to, we shipped in a very small lot at a random post office on Saturday and Charly didn't get the EMS slips because we haven't met up with him since) and then I know CanuckBassist's is finished and shipping tomorrow, gdl has a jacket shipping tomorrow, some shirts, etc. Other than those there's about 5 or 6 jackets done in the new styles (group 1) but I don't know your screennames so I don't know who you are. ***

    *** don't post after this asking if yours is done [​IMG]
     
  19. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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  20. bdeuce22

    bdeuce22 Senior member

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    The other thing I need to address is color availability, here is the record, uncut:

    Calf suede colors for the two new suede items are:
    -Blue, Red, Beige, and Medium Grey. There is no light grey, there is no brown.


    shit, i'm going to send you an email right now. might be too late.
     

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