TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    yes, essentially. You may fit into the category of actually needing MTM, but what we want to do is keep the line moving more efficiently and not have people distracted by MTM as it seems 95% or more actually don't really need it - sizing is such that most people can fit in an off the rack size. This way people can get their items quicker and with less paining over the measurement process, and people who really require the custom fitting jacket can get it. There won't be any customizable color choices or anything like that though, because I want to stave off the constant 'would X jacket look good in X color?' questions. In essence I'm closing doors in the house to rooms that aren't pertinent, so that the path leads to the destination that IS pertinent. Getting there more simply is the idea.

    What we have done over the past 3 years is to get guys into well fitting jackets, without the ominous and costly process of exchanges and returns. The end results are pretty astounding when you go through the gallery and consider all of that. I thought the measurements directions were fairly clear and also fairly common sense, but they still proved too hard for some and I also feel people as customers felt bothered by having to make the effort. There was some discussion on fuk.co.uk the other day where a couple guys were exaggerating their experiences with TOJ and it was really a matter of those guys not measuring right or being too casual/not honest about their body sizes when stating their size preferences - one guy was north of 220, maybe 250lbs and just didn't understand the concept of 'slim fit jacket' and still rails on us to this day about it, it was obviously tight on him. It's that kinda stuff that I just hope to get rid of in this process, if the pieces are ready made without even the notion of being able to change that, I feel the answers may be more clear.
     


  2. candrew

    candrew Senior member

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    I guess it would be good for reference to say that I added 4'' to my sleeve length in comparison to the body length (26.5'' vs 22.5''). That works for my body vs arm length and how I wanted the stacks (it may or may not work for you). The ribbing in the sleeve takes up about 3'' when laid flat iirc.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2012


  3. PipersSon

    PipersSon Senior member

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  4. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    If I decide to bring back the TOJ0, there wouldn't be the color choices and stuff like we've had before; that takes way too much effort to put together, like up to 6 or 7 different sourcing things multiplied by the colors that were ordered before, it got to be like hundreds of checklist items to be minded for each market day, which was like two or three days a week. Can't do that now because we have all of the other orders we're pumping out. I would be interested in making some sort of 'ultimate edition' that resembles the TOJ0 but in finer materials. Same concept with the uninsulated body and slim fit, but possibly off the charts for material content. It would be like just one colorway, to represent the final image.
     


  5. Ectoplasm

    Ectoplasm New Member

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    So if that happens, would those MTM orders still have customization options as long as they're extremely minor and reasonable, like if you want one less pocket or something?
     


  6. omgcookielol

    omgcookielol Senior member

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    Really love this talk of the future. The price increases probably won't be too bad, compared to what some of us spend on other brands (prorsum, Dior, etc). Excited about talk of a new Peacoat, and a possible recollection (hoping that the bcdr will return ;)) before the break.

    Would be cool if the TOJ store stocked a regular color palette, with surprise limited color/material batches like red lamb/sky blue suede/whiskey calf/black or burgundy fqhh/etc. Like a shiny Pokemon concept that keeps people checking the thread/store.
     


  7. lesamourai

    lesamourai Senior member


    Well, you wouldn't 'hope' it fits, you'd look at the size chart and see what does fit.
     


  8. sexonfabric

    sexonfabric Senior member

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    TOJ0 ftw!!!

    I did my best to try and defend TOJ over on FUK. I wouldn't worry too much about those guys, they are complete morons for the most part.
     


  9. linds_15

    linds_15 Senior member

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    ^^instead of rushing into it, considering the cutoff is so close, make it a limited run to start the "new" toj when you do come back?
     


  10. candrew

    candrew Senior member

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    I agree that this would remove the variable of human error. If the person wants a tighter jacket, they size down, or a larger jacket, they size up. The critiques against fit are largely in part due to client error and not understanding their body type or what they want out of a leather jacket.

    MTM and bespoke require a large amount of knowledge from both the tailor AND the client. If one is inexperienced, neither will be satisfied and the end result will be a mess. My very first TOJ turned out this way because I was new to it and sorta just sent out some measurements and was very 'pray it works'. This also happened with my first MTM suit. Sometimes, the stars don't align and even with experience, an error occurs and things just don't turn out the way you wanted.

    It's easier to try before you buy or know a limited set of choices that you can say "yeah, this'll work on me" or "nah, this doesn't work with my body type".

    In short, shopping for clothes is hard. [​IMG]
     


  11. IDH

    IDH Senior member

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    I recieved my MDR a few months ago and I placed an order for a 4 zip moto last week. I just wanted to double check my measurements to get the fit as close to perfect as possible.

    I'm happy with the fit of my MDR, but I think the pit to pit and sleeve widths are too big. I'm hoping the moto will fit slimmer, and hope people could give advice on any other measurements I should adjust. Here's pictures of the MDR:

    Front (Zipped): http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/515/20120510193134.jpg/

    Front (Unzipped): http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/4/20120510193612.jpg/

    Back: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/513/20120510193322.jpg/

    Sleeve width:http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/641/20120510193430.jpg/

    I'm hoping the moto will fit similar to the one Jason Bourne was wearing in Willy's most recent WAYWT picture. What areas would you adjust? The changes I made were:

    Pit to Pit: -0.8"
    Sleeve at Pit: -0.6"
    Sleeve at Elbow: -0.3"

    I now think it needs more off the sleeve elbow and wrist - but I'd appreciate any other feedback:satisfied:
     


  12. kasakka

    kasakka Senior member

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    MTM for extra sounds like a good compromise. I know I would probably have a hard time with the regular sizes. I just ordered a red calf QMDR and had to add 1.6 inches to sleeves just because I have rather long arms even though otherwise the stock measurements would be sufficient.
     


  13. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    yeah I saw, thanks for that. Kinda bugs me because I did sort those guys out fairly and they say so themselves. I know who a few of them are and remember they were just some of the hardest people to work with. We have a growing list of people who are just straight up banned from buying from us now, just because dealing with them is not worth the time and effort and possible lost costs. The blacklist is definitely one part of old TOJ that will continue into new TOJ unchanged... :eek:
     


  14. Nikolo

    Nikolo Senior member

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    Hey Drew, what's the cutoff date for the MTM orders?
     


  15. GSafternoon

    GSafternoon Well-Known Member

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