Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.
I'm dreaming of a murdered out buzz rickson quality MA-1 slimmed down and made much more minimal by drews touch.
I was wondering is the new toj going to have seasons and a more cyclical and innovative creation of clothes? Branching out to more pieces than outerwear?
The problem with MA-1's is not so much the sllmness (well, ok, some could be slimmed down a bit) - but rather their lengths, most have proportions to fit a man about 5'4 and 175lbs. The patterns must be redrawn. I think volume is a good thing, if it has a purpose - and in the case of an MA-1, you get thick wool batting inside one that is properly well-made according to repro specs, so if that level of manufacture could be translated to a modern fit = all gold. There are other ways to go above and beyond the historically accurate repro-level quality in terms of shell fabrics and stuff, but I am still deciding. For example, Toyo has the license on those Crown repro zippers; I think it's cute that they do that, but it's unnecessary for a TOJ and I'm not sure they would offer them to me anyway. I am talking to Riri and other brands about the possibility of using their products in the next phase.
Beyond MA-1's though, there are a lot of great things I want to make using the base of knowledge and resources within Japan, and I think they'll result in some excellent clothes. It's been 3 years of me wanting to do a lot of things but feeling somewhat limited by the resource pool in Korea - and now those hurdles no longer stand. We've made the MA-1 in silk, in gore-tex, in technical nylon laminate; now it makes sense to explore other makeups and patterns. I felt like me and Dan spent 3 years walking around the wholesale marketplaces in Korea whining about stuff we wanted to make but couldn't find the materials or manufacture for; now that I am in Japan, the all of my wishes have come true and have fell in my lap, and now it's on me to step up with the product concepts. It shouldn't be too hard though, to make some amazing stuff.
I geek out on utilitarian textiles and obviously I would love to see some weather minded garment living in a very cold place with a weather that changes several times a day. What I was wondering is if new toj would have thematic seasonal clothing along with a mainstay of pieces that are "classics". I like when brands have a key inspiration that spurs on a season, making everything in that season very cohesive. One brand that does a great job of this is heritage research, which has an underlying theme that holds the brand together; updated military and being a history geek this makes me weak at the knees. Every season though they pick an era; this ss 12 is based on vietnam; with lots of tiger stripes. Last year was more of a pt boat jfk look with chinos and chambray shirts. I think that toj would benefit from that type of vision.
On the other hand that might estrange some customers, I for example am not a fan of anything related to any motorcycle based aesthetic, if a season was rooted in an updated 1950's greaser look. I probably would not make any purchases. I think its pretty cool how you have done so well in updating and really appropriating so many different looks to make something that most of us could easily recognizing as being toj
that was your post #303
Sounds right lol. When William Gibson got his from Buzz Rickson, he said he asked for some extra length. I personally think your MA-1s fit and look great one size up from what one would order in your leathers. The looser body and longer sleeves look pretty good. I'm really excited to see what you have planned, as a hunt for a modern and affordable MA-1 is how I found your brand, and I've been happy with your stuff since.
I agree with you, and that is why I put out the call before for that type of person previously, there could be a marriage of concept and quality if the right person is found. Perhaps I should read more in my free time I dunno. I really like the way Daisuke Obana does thematic collections, but you know there's a fine line in these practical arts where playing make believe and dress up (refer to my kindergarten art class comment a few pages back) reveals itself to be very shallow and thin on a critical side, concept or quality.
If I had the choice, knowing what I can do, where my best talents lie - I go to making a collection of clothing that doesn't speak of a dressed up conceptual theme - rather I like making individual pieces that just speak on their own and say 'this is a leather jacket, and it's a good example of one' - I think in cases of weaker brands trying to pull of conceptual stuff there is a risk in producing not well thought-out filler, expensive basics, maybe lackluster outers, I dunno - but I hate the idea of making filler just to make filler.
So to that; if it is possible to make themed collections and things like that, I would explore that possibility - if it doesn't happen and I'm still making clothes that meet my quality standards (and consider that these are only rising day by day) then I'm fine with that too. Quality is foremost, conceptual presentation drives up the price but does nothing for the actual clothes once they're on your body, unless one cares to wear head to toe outfits straight out of a lookbook...
Drew, I want a QDR. What color/ leather are you digging? Also, I love the lamb but I think I want something more durable...would calf allow me to beat it up a bit more (eg jumping in bushes whilst intoxicated) or do I need to step up to horse for that kind of armor (not that QDR is available in horse....in fact, is calf even a good idea for QDR?). Help me Obi-won Keith-obi.
Asking what kind of leather is suitable for rolling around in bushes... I don't even
303 based toj seasonal design team. synth and I.
could be wrong, but I was under the impression the QDR was lamb only as the calf doesn't work well with the intricate quilt details.
yes, the black and brown calf are a bit too heavy and stiff for an application like the QDR. The Italian calfskin was a bit more pliable and soft; it worked slightly better than the black or brown calf would. The details at the shoulder would not sing as much because the heavier layer over the foam when stitched down would hold the whole layer down, rather than ridging like the lamb does. Small construction thing based on weights and feel. The calf might be able to be shaved down to maybe lighten that effect, but I don't like shaving down leather.
fwiw, black lamb QDR's are like a work of art once they're in your hands. I wouldn't roll around in the thorns in one, but they are truly impressive and you will definitely get people coming up to you just to cop a feel. All of the TOJ leathers are based in that black lamb, but the QDR just riffs on it the best. The padded and quilted details and dimension make you take notice of the leather quality.
I thought I had read that too but seems like the quote before yours suggest green calf is good for QDR.
I thrashed a cheap All Saints jacket jumping into bushes one night. And tore through another one while hopping freight trains in Utah. I have an old Harley Davidson perfecto-style (from the 50's) that I had to tailor but that thing is damn near bullet proof. Anyway, I like to beat up my clothes and while TOJ lamb is buttery soft and all that, I'm considering something more substantial for the QDR.
EDIT: Thanks Drew, you snuck in and answered my questions while I was typing. I'm definitely not opposed to owning another lamb TOJ.
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