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TOJ - updates on the debacle, complaints, news about other ventures, whatever.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by impolyt_one, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    It won't feel loose until you've really got it bent up and flexy, but it will definitely soften up and become pliable as you put hydration into the leather. You will have to put it on and bend it up, and that may incur some bruising on your part. I found the VTG to be uncomfortable at first and then kinda fun to wear, if a bit overkill feeling.
     


  2. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Pretty much fits you to a tee.
     


  3. Kajak

    Kajak Senior member

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    Next, someone remove the mags and just add in SF users. (6)

    Or someone should make a FB quiz for this (10)
     


  4. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    I guess 'knowledge' at the top there could be also explained as 'appreciation (for craftsmanship)' - etc, and that's a better explanation of what I was trying to get at, but that also leaves out the Italian artisanal brands like the Carpe Diem family, MA+ et al, which aren't EXACTLY in Itaoya-kei (but could be, kinda) but aren't really Mode, while they do deserve part of the North axis that is being monopolized by Amekaji.
    There's just no real dedicated magazines to the old Italian/CCP gothninja artisanal stuff, because a) it's obscure (but all available across Tokyo) and b) just not really popular 10 years later, except for on SZ. The used CCP and stuff from JP has seemingly all been bought off yahoo and into the hands of SZ'ers as of a few years ago, and Japan mostly quit on that look. I saw some Augustas at American Rag Cie and Lift Etage still has all that stuff, but it's mostly dead. L'Eclair died and closed shop, Midwest is dead (?) and Restir is a pure fashion shop in the Mode category now, having quit a lot of the dark stuff.

    I guess if there were a box for SZ'ish artisanal stuff (but NOT SZ itself, which is different because of the mix that shows up), it'd be a hot dog shaped thing that has the tip dipping into Mode, maybe a slight rubbing with Itaoya-kei, and then the other end squeezing between Ame and Itaoya-kei at the top.
     


  5. aether

    aether Senior member

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    do me, do me.

    I feel like I have a lot of lifestyle influence coming from BMX/motos, an appreciation for craftmanship and heritage, but I'm also into mid-market designer fashion shit...

    soo like NW with a bit of E?
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2012


  6. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    It's worth noting that these magazines are very deep, cover wide ranges of things that are relatively safe for their genre, they aren't really describable by one person's aesthetic nor would you be able to say that any styleforum poster goes as deep as the magazine does. Perhaps voxsartoria and the magazine Last but that's not even on the chart, and doesn't belong on there anyway really.

    For example, old Raf, original season Julius, old Slimane-era Dior Homme, these are SZ approved, or were in the past - where did I see these? In Mens Non-no, around 2003 and 2004. Raf was not the kind of king of men's Mode as he became later, and Julius was starting out, no one would've ever guessed it'd get walked in Paris at that point.

    Same token, Attachment (not KKA) - also started out on the pages on Mens Non-no, but nowadays gets play in SENSE and sometimes even the lower Itaoya-kei mags as small features or piece by piece. There's a system of small overlaps and borrowing within the graph that the magazines do so they're not completely one dimensional.
     


  7. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    You're pretty much NW with aspirations of Mens Non no kei.
     


  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    This whole thing reminds me of marketing tapestry segmentation. Some of the names of these groups are lulz

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2012


  9. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    Yeah it's similar to that, and also to all the world data that the IMF and World Bank, et al put up all the time. You can kinda roll back attributes, you can sit in denial for awhile :lol: but eventually you will find that there's a place, a description for one's style on the chart. The shape may be abstract but it could be identified by others mostly the same.
     


  10. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    I think of all the magazines there it's JOKER and SENSE that I like the most ... JOKER's overlap between onii-kei and non-kei seems pretty appropriate.
     


  11. sexonfabric

    sexonfabric Senior member

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    This is some of the dullest shit posted in a forum full of, "how much will my APC stretch," and "what goes with a white shirt."

    Well played.
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2012


  12. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    JOKER has no elements of Onii-kei, man. JOKER is basically a magazine like Mens Non no without the yearly inclusions of high and low, and the pricepoints of JOKER stuff tends to be just a tad lower than the nicer stuff in Non-no. Onii-kei is not mainstream enough to warrant more than the flashiest, most dedicated magazines like Egg. It's not something that Japanese guys really 'sort of' do or try to incorporate into other styles. Onii-kei exists there, floating in the middle really, it shouldn't particularly overlap with Men's Non-kei besides the shared age demographic, but socioeconomically, they are disparate. Onii-kei is sort of yankee/NEET style, a group rejecting higher education or proper work, whereas Mens Non-no guys tend to be locked into the more conventional societal ideals that Japan puts on them - they tend to be high school or college students, with aspirations of working at a company, etc.
     


  13. impolyt_one

    impolyt_one Senior member

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    man, if you feel that way, it's way over your head but that's not what I intended. It's too bad, because this is all a google search away, and your style and world would blow way open. I'm trying to get people more in touch with their personal style here, instead of languoring in some sort of styleforum/messageboard groupthink du jour type thing - there's actual groupings and better curated genres for this stuff.
     


  14. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    IDK man, clearly you know a whole lot more than I do about the scope of this but 5351 did collab items with Joker last year and Kiryuyrik, Shellac, Galaabend, Attachment and others are featured in SENSE constantly? Basically you're saying I belong in the onii-kei bucket even though I don't buy anything from any of the brands in those magazines whereas I actively buy and follow brands in the non-kei mags but I don't fall into that bucket at all because ... what, I like snakeskin and have "flashy" hair?

    I relate a lot more to this:

    [​IMG]

    Than this:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2012


  15. Kajak

    Kajak Senior member

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    Will Google this shit later. I get what you're trying to say, I just don't get the Japanese Magazine refs.
     


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