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To DB or not to DB

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by tctcheung, Aug 11, 2016.

  1. tctcheung

    tctcheung New Member

    Likes Received:
    Aug 11, 2016
    Since I am new to this forum I thought I would start with a little request for some advice gentlemen.

    I am thinking of buying a double breasted suit or blazer but am unsure whether this would be entirely appropriate given my build. I am 5 ft 10in but with a 46in chest and 38in waist.

    What would you all recommend in terms of styling if I were to go ahead with a purchase, or should I stick to single buttoned suits.


  2. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Distinguished Member

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    Mar 14, 2008
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    Expertly tailored, a double breasted suit might look great on you.

    Poorly tailored double breasted suits tend to look bad on most wearers.

    That you're 5'10", that you have a 46 inch chest, and that you have a 38 inch waist, doesn't really change any of the above.

    If you want a double breasted suit, and you're buying OTR, try a few on and post pictures to this thread. (Although the market's not exactly awash in quality, OTR, double breasted suits these days. Still, a few are presumably out there.)

    If you're going the MTM or bespoke route, make sure you're dealing with a tailor whose double breasted suits you've seen and you like, someone with whom you can communicate easily, and someone in whose professional judgement you have confidence. (And give considerable preference to a tailor who will measure you himself, as opposed to a tailor 5000 miles away, to whom you send a few measurements.)

    Nor would these be bad guidelines as applied to single breasted suits.

  3. Astaroth

    Astaroth Senior Member

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    Sep 26, 2013
    What are your concerns about db?

    Assuming you are concerned you are already too broad then you can have a jacket with small modificaitions to reduce the normal widdening impact of a DB such as having buttoning slightly lower and closer together which will straighten and enlongate the lapels plus reduce the overlap of the fabric. Having 4 buttons rather than 6 can also help.

  4. EzraPaul

    EzraPaul Senior Member

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    Aug 26, 2010
    Washington, DC
    You're concern is that it will make you look stocky? You have an 8 inch drop, so as long as you have an "athletic" build and not a pudgy build, I think you're fine. Just be sure that the proportions are appropriate - don't go too narrow on the lapels since you are broad and make sure the length isn't too short/long. DB have peak lapels, which tend to have a broadening effect, for what it's worth.

  5. bloodybrilliant

    bloodybrilliant Senior Member

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    Jul 31, 2016
    And give preference to a tailor in your area if you're going the MTM or bespoke route. As you might need 1-2 additional fittings compared to a more simple constructed single breasted suit.

  6. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Distinguished Member

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    Mar 15, 2006

    4 buttons in 2 straight lines is the configuration most likely to avoid creating a top-heavy look. If the concern is more about looking blocky, then a v-shaped 6 x 2 probably would be better. Fit, color, etc. also affect that, of course. Heavily padded shoulders probably should be shunned even more than usual.
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2016

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