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TM Lewin shirts?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by FCS, Jun 4, 2005.

  1. FCS

    FCS Senior member

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    Do they have these specs?
    * Pearl buttons
    * Single-needle stitching
    * Buttons on sleeve plackets?

    Many thanks.
     
  2. daniele6

    daniele6 Senior member

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    * Pearl buttons
    NO

    * Single-needle stitching
    NO

    * Buttons on sleeve plackets?
    NO
     
  3. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    I thought for sure that TM Lewin had single-stitching...and that double was merely on the body, side-seam.

    edit: they're made in UK, though, yes?
     
  4. ViroBono

    ViroBono Senior member

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    No - they're made overseas, in a variety of countries.

    A few of the Jermyn Street shirtmakers still make their shirts in UK (usually Northern Ireland), but most of the big ones, such as Pink and Tyrwhitt, now source their shirts overseas.
     
  5. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    (Horace @ June 05 2005,23:10) edit: Â they're made in UK, though, yes?
    No - they're made overseas, in a variety of countries. A few of the Jermyn Street shirtmakers still make their shirts in UK (usually Northern Ireland), but most of the big ones, such as Pink and Tyrwhitt, now source their shirts overseas.
    Are there any RTW shirts save N&L, H&K, and Harvie & Hudson that are still made in UK? Thanks.
     
  6. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Turnbull Asser and Budd still make their shirts in Blighty -- T&A has a factory in Gloucester and Budd make theirs in their own shop workrooms.

    Apart from these two and the three listed above there are no real Jermyn Street makers left, just high street merchants trading on the name of Jermyn Street.

    There are a few shirt labels not on Jermyn Street that are still made in the UK but I imagine they use the same factories. I know T&A and H&K have their own dedicated shirtmaking factories -- HK's is in Glenrothes Scotland. The rest apart from Budd might use subcontractors. For starters I believe the RTW shirts of Ede & Ravenscroft, Dege, Spencer Hart, Woods of Shropshire and Cadogan are all made in the UK... somewhere.
     
  7. caledoniasoul2

    caledoniasoul2 Well-Known Member

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    Are you sure about the Lewin shirts not being made in the UK? I thought i saw somewhere on thier site that they were. I cant seem to find the reference. They do make a great shirt for the price...

    Maybe someone can ring them up and find out-otherwise i would not heistate to rec'd thier product-which for the price is one of the nicest shirts ive found....and yes i own, T&A, Battastoni, brooks,older Pinks, hemrajanis and chans
     
  8. FCS

    FCS Senior member

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    I am surprised that they don't use pearl buttons, given the prices of the shirts. Does this apply to all their shirts? I'm willing to buy some at current prices provided they have pearl buttons.
     
  9. ViroBono

    ViroBono Senior member

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    According to Lewin's website, they have their own factory in Leigh on Sea, Essex. However, last time I was in the shop there seemed to be a good deal of 'special purchase' foreign-made stock.
     
  10. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    That's why I asked, I originally recall the copy of the site reading made in UK, etc.

    RJ Man: care to be kind enough to discuss merits of RTW shirts off Jermyn St?
     
  11. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Argh... so much for my efforts to have an off-board social life... Well, it's bloody pissing in the (sartorial) Deliverance of Columbia so I might as well. Thing is I don't know all that about off-Jermyn makers. What exactly did you want to know? Names? RTW? Bespoke? Construction?
    Someone else on this board posted mentioning experience with Stephens Bros and Woods of Shropshire. Stephens Brothers (they have a website) are the shirtmakers to HRH the Duke of Edinburgh, everyone's favorite politically incorrect royal -- mine at least. I don't think they do bespoke; they appear to have the attributes of a Jermyn Street shirt although they don't always use two-fold cotton and someone said they might be made in Poland (which is why the price was somewhat less than the better-known makers).

    The other British non-Jermyn RTW I own is Richard James (for the last two years made in Slovakia) and Ede & Ravenscroft. While the cloth in RJ is nice and the construction better than in many designer shirts, it's not going to compare in durability to a T&A or Budd. I haven't opened the Ede shirt yet as it's in my ancient Goyard trunk of as yet unneeded Sea Island and cashmere pullovers, Jermyn Street, RJ and Charvet shirts, and Pantherella socks in every material and color. Bromleys carry other shirt names like Dominic Shortle, Cleeve and Anthony J Hewitt. Hewitt is a Savile Row tailor who phagocytosed tropicalwear tailors Airey & Wheeler. ANother forum member is essaying the shirts -- which obviously are made by a subcontractor. I'd imagine same deal with Shortle, who designed for Cordings and whose look is similar. Not sure what Cleeve is; the shirts look very good.

    What else, what else... there's Mark Stephen Marengo off Regent Street (some Arcade) -- sort of a poor man's last season's Richard James, more designer than maker... Coles was a classic shirtmaker with much military business that moved off Jermyn Street due to the rising rents... I was disappointed by their RTW as it didn't have some of the features it was supposed to, such as shell buttons or gussets.

    Many SR tailors will sell you a RTW shirt -- Gieves & Hawkes, Kilgour, Huntsman, E&R, Chester Barrie, Hewitt, Wheelers, Dege, Benson Clegg (OK, not strictly in the Row). Apart from Chester Barrie (not sure) I'm certain none of them made the shirts and that all come from some factory where they're made to varying specifications. Nothing wrong with factories; they're how almost all shirts even on Jermyn Street are made.

    Anyway. That's about all I know.
     
  12. caledoniasoul2

    caledoniasoul2 Well-Known Member

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    i emailed lewin about point of manufacture but no response yet. Does anyone have any info yet -or better is someone in the uk and can call them to resolve the issue. Also-note that according to thier site, the better 140' s shirts do have MOP buttons , i quote : "our finest shirts are finished with mother-of-pearl buttons and complimentary nickel plated steel collar stiffeners" http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/webapp....p=gents
     

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