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Made in Spain Footwear, including TLB Mallorca, Cobbler Union, Yanko, Norman Vilalta, etc

Jazzthief

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So I figured out what caused the heels of my TLB loafers to break - the shoe trees. The loafers and the shoe trees both are in UK size 7. However, this is too snug of a fit for the loafers as the suede is softer than regular leather and there is not enough support for these shoe trees - putting them in (yes, I know how to do it - you turn) and taking them out has broken the back part. I will have a cobbler fix them and I will sand the back part of the shoe trees to make them smaller from there. Maybe a thing that others could consider when purchasing shoe trees for loafers.
199341068_163534419036270_7287509128496157712_n.jpg
 

nevaeh

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So I figured out what caused the heels of my TLB loafers to break - the shoe trees. The loafers and the shoe trees both are in UK size 7. However, this is too snug of a fit for the loafers as the suede is softer than regular leather and there is not enough support for these shoe trees - putting them in (yes, I know how to do it - you turn) and taking them out has broken the back part. I will have a cobbler fix them and I will sand the back part of the shoe trees to make them smaller from there. Maybe a thing that others could consider when purchasing shoe trees for loafers.
View attachment 1630642
It’s interesting that the damage is mostly limited to the upper of the heel. With a shoe tree, I’d expect the damage to be spread throughout the heel. Do you routinely use a shoe horn? Do the shoes bite into your heel when you wear them? To me, those seem more likely based on the damage pattern. I’m skeptical that it’s the shoe trees (or at least shoe trees exclusively).
 

Proleet

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It’s interesting that the damage is mostly limited to the upper of the heel. With a shoe tree, I’d expect the damage to be spread throughout the heel. Do you routinely use a shoe horn? Do the shoes bite into your heel when you wear them? To me, those seem more likely based on the damage pattern. I’m skeptical that it’s the shoe trees (or at least shoe trees exclusively).
Was about to type this. Can’t imagine this is from shoe trees given that they also tend to taper off at the top…
 

JohnMRobie

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Don’t have any of the TLB lasted trees but are they not the spring loaded tube trees? The only thing I can think of is if they’re rubbing the heel every time they go in and out and are unfinished dragging on the lining and leather if they weren’t compressed?
 

Jazzthief

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It’s interesting that the damage is mostly limited to the upper of the heel. With a shoe tree, I’d expect the damage to be spread throughout the heel. Do you routinely use a shoe horn? Do the shoes bite into your heel when you wear them? To me, those seem more likely based on the damage pattern. I’m skeptical that it’s the shoe trees (or at least shoe trees exclusively).

No, they do not bite into my heel, there actually is a considerable amount of heel slip. As the heels (of the shoe) are quite soft and the shoe trees are a very precise fit then the insertion of the trees tends to fold the upper heels. I always use shoe trees. I am not quite sure what you mean by "damage pattern".
 

JustPullHarder

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No, they do not bite into my heel, there actually is a considerable amount of heel slip. As the heels (of the shoe) are quite soft and the shoe trees are a very precise fit then the insertion of the trees tends to fold the upper heels. I always use shoe trees. I am not quite sure what you mean by "damage pattern".
If inserting the trees is collapsing the throat it's likely that you're inserting them wrong.
 

Jazzthief

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If inserting the trees is collapsing the throat it's likely that you're inserting them wrong.

I am not. I rotate them into the shoes and am not having the same issue with any other shoes I have. The heels are soft and the big shoe trees are collapsing the heels - even though I am using the same rotation technique as with other shoes.
 

j ingevaldsson

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I am not. I rotate them into the shoes and am not having the same issue with any other shoes I have. The heels are soft and the big shoe trees are collapsing the heels - even though I am using the same rotation technique as with other shoes.

The shoe trees should never touch the back of the heel until fully inserted. If you press the springs so they contract fully when front is in the shoe, as one should, can't see how this type of damage would occur. I have several pairs of TLB trees, and use them for customers shoes regularly, nothing different with them or the shoes compared to others (other than being on the large side really filling out the shoes completely, as they are made to match original last. Doesn't change anything on this regard above though).
 
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nevaeh

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No, they do not bite into my heel, there actually is a considerable amount of heel slip. As the heels (of the shoe) are quite soft and the shoe trees are a very precise fit then the insertion of the trees tends to fold the upper heels. I always use shoe trees. I am not quite sure what you mean by "damage pattern".
Damage pattern meaning that only the top of the heal appears damaged.

I was asking about the use of shoe horns, not shoe trees, when you put in the shoes.

Do you compress the shoe trees when inserting them, so that there is little contact with the heel during insertion? Or do you jam it in, thus rubbing against the back part of the heel?
 
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Duke Santos

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I'm thinking of getting the Nolan Longwings in country grain (or maybe suede). They're on the Bryan last, and I'd appreciate any help on sizing. I'm pretty much an Allen Edmonds 9.5 with E/EE being ideal. I have several EEE that work well, and D works in the right (i.e. roomy across the ball of the foot) last like the 42, which is snug but comfortable. For my one pair of Crocketts, they fitted me in a UK 9 to accommodate the width, and that's in the 314 last on a pair of Boston loafers.
 

Patrick1053

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I'm thinking of getting the Nolan Longwings in country grain (or maybe suede). They're on the Bryan last, and I'd appreciate any help on sizing. I'm pretty much an Allen Edmonds 9.5 with E/EE being ideal. I have several EEE that work well, and D works in the right (i.e. roomy across the ball of the foot) last like the 42, which is snug but comfortable. For my one pair of Crocketts, they fitted me in a UK 9 to accommodate the width, and that's in the 314 last on a pair of Boston loafers.
I don't mean to be a jerk but you never actually asked a question. And how can we give sizing advice if you say you wear widths D,E,EE, and EEE.
 

Duke Santos

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I don't mean to be a jerk but you never actually asked a question. And how can we give sizing advice if you say you wear widths D,E,EE, and EEE.

Yeah, I get that I was pretty vague. I guess just a general thought on whether they run long or short or wide or narrow relative to say my C&J might help since that's the one UK standard width size that I own.
 

Sequir

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I'm thinking of getting the Nolan Longwings in country grain (or maybe suede). They're on the Bryan last, and I'd appreciate any help on sizing. I'm pretty much an Allen Edmonds 9.5 with E/EE being ideal. I have several EEE that work well, and D works in the right (i.e. roomy across the ball of the foot) last like the 42, which is snug but comfortable. For my one pair of Crocketts, they fitted me in a UK 9 to accommodate the width, and that's in the 314 last on a pair of Boston loafers.
Yeah, I get that I was pretty vague. I guess just a general thought on whether they run long or short or wide or narrow relative to say my C&J might help since that's the one UK standard width size that I own.

I'd speak to Toni ([email protected]). Send him this info and your measurements (length/width). His sizing advice has been perfect for me.

Also, the longwings are awesome. Got mine in brown suede just yesterday.
 

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