Made in Spain Footwear, including TLB Mallorca, Cobbler Union, Yanko, Norman Vilalta, etc

[apd90700]

Looking at Brown/Dark Brown now. Personally, I prefer a punch cap over a plain cap, unless it's for ultra formal occasions -- seems easier to go casual with a punch cap. Also, since the majority of the time I'm wearing these will probably be outdoors on concrete, seems like the City sole is the better option?

One item to note is that #2 below was described as a Dark Brown Museum, when in fact TLB doesn't ostensibly carry "Dark" Brown in Museum, it's only Brown, which seems to be a base of Vegano Brown with mottling of Vegano Dark Brown. Option #1 is Vegano Dark Brown.

Figure if I go with option #2 it'll fit into my soon to be collection as as spot between Brown and Dark Brown while still giving me room to grab both those other two color variations. If we go with option #1, it'll be doubling up any other later Dark Brown I'd be considering unless I get both of these, at which point the style would be mostly duplicated which is also somewhat a faux pas.

The only thing in my mind that option #1 has over #2 is that I prefer the Dark Brown Vegano over the "Dark" Brown Museum.

One

Two

 

[JohnMRobie]

Looking at Brown/Dark Brown now. Personally, I prefer a punch cap over a plain cap, unless it's for ultra formal occasions -- seems easier to go casual with a punch cap. Also, since the majority of the time I'm wearing these will probably be outdoors on concrete, seems like the City sole is the better option?

One item to note is that #2 below was described as a Dark Brown Museum, when in fact TLB doesn't ostensibly carry "Dark" Brown in Museum, it's only Brown, which seems to be a base of Vegano Brown with mottling of Vegano Dark Brown. Option #1 is Vegano Dark Brown.

Figure if I go with option #2 it'll fit into my soon to be collection as as spot between Brown and Dark Brown while still giving me room to grab both those other two color variations. If we go with option #1, it'll be doubling up any other later Dark Brown I'd be considering unless I get both of these, at which point the style would be mostly duplicated which is also somewhat a faux pas.

The only thing in my mind that option #1 has over #2 is that I prefer the Dark Brown Vegano over the "Dark" Brown Museum.

One

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Two
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Re: Museum v Vegano - museum will probably play better to a more casual look and a little less clean/more visual interest. You say casual but keep in mind it’s a sleekish cap toe oxford with a chiseled toe so how casual it can actually get is going to be limited. Even stretching the common wisdom on oxfords with suits to something more relaxed the line is still somewhere before chinos and probably closer to before linen trousers.

They’re also different leathers - vegano is what Annonay calls their crust - I’m not certain but assume that TLB is using the Annonay trade name on it and not referring to something else since I think that’s the procider It can look a bit matte and flat out of the box BUT is really burnishable and takes on some cool life the more you wear it and polish it (Think @j ingevaldsson posted a pair of burgundy vegano that he’d hit with navy’s black and burgundy that had a ton of character as an example) and won’t stay flat for long.

If I recall correctly the museum TLB uses is from Zonta and is a full aniline dyed leather so it’s theoretically a bit more color stable but will still take color from polish so use the lighter of the two colors as your cream to keep it from blending too much but is still plenty easy to care for.

As far as doubling up in the future I guess the question becomes how big do you want your collection to be? It’s easy to go down the rabbit hole and end up with a bunch of shoes. That’s how you end up with like 7 black cap toes, too many shoes in your closet and an annoyed wife because the patterns or last shapes are all slightly different but look the same to a normal person. If it becomes your hobby then less of a concern.

for this purchase - go with the one you like more and don’t over think it. I tend to like balmorals but that’s personal taste.

Based on what you have posted in the past it seems like an ideal place to be would be something like:

Brown/dark brown cap toe of some sort mainly for when you do your occasional suits but also could work when you’ve got a jacket on particularly if you added a tie
Brown/dark brown full brogue
Medium brown three eyelet derby (most worn with trousers with or without a jacket)
Split toe derby in some sort of brown - your call on how casual to make it but I’d think a plain leather would pair best with what you wear
Dark brown suede loafer (my most worn summer loafer)
#8 shell or medium brown calf loafer
Dark brown chukka (this is my most worn spring/fall boot)!

The one thing I’d say is I would definitely not buy multiple brown cap toes of any shade or pattern unless you plan to wear a lot more suits and even then not until you round out the collection a bit.

 

[apd90700]

Re: Museum v Vegano - museum will probably play better to a more casual look and a little less clean/more visual interest. You say casual but keep in mind it’s a sleekish cap toe oxford with a chiseled toe so how casual it can actually get is going to be limited. Even stretching the common wisdom on oxfords with suits to something more relaxed the line is still somewhere before chinos and probably closer to before linen trousers.

They’re also different leathers - vegano is what Annonay calls their crust - I’m not certain but assume that TLB is using the Annonay trade name on it and not referring to something else since I think that’s the procider It can look a bit matte and flat out of the box BUT is really burnishable and takes on some cool life the more you wear it and polish it (Think @j ingevaldsson posted a pair of burgundy vegano that he’d hit with navy’s black and burgundy that had a ton of character as an example) and won’t stay flat for long.

If I recall correctly the museum TLB uses is from Zonta and is a full aniline dyed leather so it’s theoretically a bit more color stable but will still take color from polish so use the lighter of the two colors as your cream to keep it from blending too much but is still plenty easy to care for.

As far as doubling up in the future I guess the question becomes how big do you want your collection to be? It’s easy to go down the rabbit hole and end up with a bunch of shoes. That’s how you end up with like 7 black cap toes, too many shoes in your closet and an annoyed wife because the patterns or last shapes are all slightly different but look the same to a normal person. If it becomes your hobby then less of a concern.

for this purchase - go with the one you like more and don’t over think it. I tend to like balmorals but that’s personal taste.

Based on what you have posted in the past it seems like an ideal place to be would be something like:

Brown/dark brown cap toe of some sort mainly for when you do your occasional suits but also could work when you’ve got a jacket on particularly if you added a tie
Brown/dark brown full brogue
Medium brown three eyelet derby (most worn with trousers with or without a jacket)
Split toe derby in some sort of brown - your call on how casual to make it but I’d think a plain leather would pair best with what you wear
Dark brown suede loafer (my most worn summer loafer)
#8 shell or medium brown calf loafer
Dark brown chukka (this is my most worn spring/fall boot)!

The one thing I’d say is I would definitely not buy multiple brown cap toes of any shade or pattern unless you plan to wear a lot more suits and even then not until you round out the collection a bit.

"I tend to like balmorals but that’s personal taste."
Translation - "I tend to like balmorals because I have good taste ."

For my Medium Brown, I landed on the Double Monk Strap, which seems also informal, but sleek enough to pull off in slim fit trousers, but to the layman may appear to be more upscale than an oxford [in my geographic location anyway lol].

For my loafer, thinking of two actually, one as you mentioned a Dark Brown Suede Penny [Skolyx by ... Mallorca], and a second Vegano Burgundy Penny [Skolyx by ... Mallorca], while not No8, Burgundy is my favorite shoe color. That way I don't break the bank on this first go through, and can see how much I'll wear the loafers when having the option to go with oxfords, derby or monk instead.

Brown full brogue is definitely seeming like it's going to be the Picasso 110 in Vegano Brown, so same page there.

Undecided on Derby, but I slant towards Blucher instead of Derby unless we're talking two maybeee three eye derby since I prefer the open vamp sleek look to a derby with fewer eyelets. If Blucher would be a split toe of course, probably reverse stitched like the earlier Velazquez.

For all the shoes beyond my Vegano Burgundy Adelaides, I'm thinking that City sole is the best option given the work from home environment we may be at in my workplace -- the majority of the time I'd wear them is out around town, on concrete, and needing a resole after a year seems less optimal. I do however use a non-skid on the leather soles right at the pivot point in the ball of my foot area, which so far seems to slow the shoe wear.

Almost forgot, all the stylists seem to be pointing at guys having at least one minimalist sneaker in their shoe collection for completely informal occasions. Opted for the Crown Northampton Upton Whole Cuts in white calf, with black gum soles [easy maintenance], and black flat waxed laces. Going to toss a white leather belt on with maybe some black golf shorts and rock that a couple times this summer. Shoes haven't arrived yet, guess they start making them the day you buy them and are handmade and MTO. As a plus they do resole these just like men's GYW shoes.

 

[JohnMRobie]

"I tend to like balmorals but that’s personal taste."
Translation - "I tend to like balmorals because I have good taste ."

For my Medium Brown, I landed on the Double Monk Strap, which seems also informal, but sleek enough to pull off in slim fit trousers, but to the layman may appear to be more upscale than an oxford [in my geographic location anyway lol].

For my loafer, thinking of two actually, one as you mentioned a Dark Brown Suede Penny [Skolyx by ... Mallorca], and a second Vegano Burgundy Penny [Skolyx by ... Mallorca], while not No8, Burgundy is my favorite shoe color. That way I don't break the bank on this first go through, and can see how much I'll wear the loafers when having the option to go with oxfords, derby or monk instead.

Brown full brogue is definitely seeming like it's going to be the Picasso 110 in Vegano Brown, so same page there.

Undecided on Derby, but I slant towards Blucher instead of Derby unless we're talking two maybeee three eye derby since I prefer the open vamp sleek look to a derby with fewer eyelets. If Blucher would be a split toe of course, probably reverse stitched like the earlier Velazquez.

For all the shoes beyond my Vegano Burgundy Adelaides, I'm thinking that City sole is the best option given the work from home environment we may be at in my workplace -- the majority of the time I'd wear them is out around town, on concrete, and needing a resole after a year seems less optimal. I do however use a non-skid on the leather soles right at the pivot point in the ball of my foot area, which so far seems to slow the shoe wear.

Almost forgot, all the stylists seem to be pointing at guys having at least one minimalist sneaker in their shoe collection for completely informal occasions. Opted for the Crown Northampton Upton Whole Cuts in white calf, with black gum soles [easy maintenance], and black flat waxed laces. Going to toss a white leather belt on with maybe some black golf shorts and rock that a couple times this summer. Shoes haven't arrived yet, guess they start making them the day you buy them and are handmade and MTO. As a plus they do resole these just like men's GYW shoes.


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I’d worry less about resoles - If you’re going to have 5-6 shoes in the rotation and a pair of sneakers and some boots you probably won’t be on the every year plan. If you end up burning through soles adding a topy can be a good middle ground.

3 eyelet can be done pretty sleek and take really nice lines - I am not a fan of PTB and I’d rather get a boot or a split toe if I were going for a casual shoe with that look.

2 eyelet can look off to me unless it’s done just right. Corthay Arca is probably the quintessential 2 eyelet derby and the one I’d get if I were going that route but every time I get close to buying it just to check a box I end up deciding I don’t like it and that it looks choppy.

 

[GrahamM]

This seems like a very solid shoe for you based on how you plan to wear them and the rest of your wardrobe. Don’t go knocking 3 eyelet though - They definitely can get very sleek without looking French.

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Can you tell us the maker/model of the brown shoes here (photos 2 and 4 in your post)....they're real beauties!

Cheers

Graham

 

[JohnMRobie]

Can you tell us the maker/model of the brown shoes here (photos 2 and 4 in your post)....they're real beauties!

Cheers

Graham

2nd pair are Gaziano Girling Fairmont, 4th pair are Yohei Fukuda bespoke.

 

[GrahamM]

2nd pair are Gaziano Girling Fairmont, 4th pair are Yohei Fukuda bespoke.

Thanks! Mighty fine shoes.

 

[apd90700]

Send it! Sniped these two off Skolyx. Gonna have to update my sig here in a few days .



Picasso 109 - Brogued Cap Toe Balmoral Oxford Dark Brown Museum Calf

Skolyx Burgundy Penny Loafer made in Mallorca with leather from the famous French tannery Annonay. According to the description these are also using leatherboard heel stiffeners, and are probably comparable to the Jones last on the Mainline.

 

[JustPullHarder]

I’d worry less about resoles - If you’re going to have 5-6 shoes in the rotation and a pair of sneakers and some boots you probably won’t be on the every year plan. If you end up burning through soles adding a topy can be a good middle ground.

3 eyelet can be done pretty sleek and take really nice lines - I am not a fan of PTB and I’d rather get a boot or a split toe if I were going for a casual shoe with that look.

2 eyelet can look off to me unless it’s done just right. Corthay Arca is probably the quintessential 2 eyelet derby and the one I’d get if I were going that route but every time I get close to buying it just to check a box I end up deciding I don’t like it and that it looks choppy.
View attachment 1606667

The Arca is an iconic shoe but I agree, sometimes it just looks brilliant but other times it seems a bit disjointed.

 

[apd90700]

Just received an email from TLB's mailing list. Looks like they're doing a Single Monk Goya last.

 

[lexmann]

Just received an email from TLB's mailing list. Looks like they're doing a Single Monk Goya last.

View attachment 1608550

Will get a pair of these.

 

[apd90700]

Anyone have a pair of TLB Mainline Loafers? If so, images please .

 

[apd90700]

So far, very impressed with the loafers. Went with a half size down from my usual UK sizing. The look, feel, and design language of the shoes are very familiar. They even have a slight bevel to the waist which I did not expect. Went ahead and did the maiden voyage this evening, fit like they were made for me. Have to say, if anyone's needing a beater, could pick up several of the loafers since each pair is like half one Goya. Only concern really is how fast the soles may wear, though being City rubber soles, they in theory should hold up better than basically any leather sole.

Also, anyone seen stitching on a City sole like this? The Picasso 109 has it, wanting to make sure it’s normal looking to you all before I go wearing it.

 

[apd90700]

So far, very impressed with the loafers. Went with a half size down from my usual UK sizing. The look, feel, and design language of the shoes are very familiar. They even have a slight bevel to the waist which I did not expect. Went ahead and did the maiden voyage this evening, fit like they were made for me. Have to say, if anyone's needing a beater, could pick up several of the loafers since each pair is like half one Goya. Only concern really is how fast the soles may wear, though being City rubber soles, they in theory should hold up better than basically any leather sole.

Also, anyone seen stitching on a City sole like this? The Picasso 109 has it, wanting to make sure it’s normal looking to you all before I go wearing it.

Got a response on the stitch pattern. With the welt stitching there are two individual thread colors used to secure the sole to the welt and the bronze colored threads are the second thread. Two separate sources verified and got back to me around the same time, so if anyone else is wondering.

"To be honest with you, this is not a problem. The color of the stitch you can see is the stitch from the welt that sometimes and depence also very much of the due to the stiffness of the rubber and many other factors, the thread sticks out a bit below. be sure the shoe are well stitch and you will not have any problem ." -TLB

"It's the upper thread of the stitching (the green one here: https://tinyurl.com/4v5c5nkv ), that you notice slightly. It can happen when the stitching machine doesn't pull 100% evenly, nothing that affects other than visually from below (the bottom thread can sometimes bee seen from above as well but since you ink things there you don't notice it)." -Skolyx

 

[apd90700]

Anyone have a TLB Belt? How's the fit, true to size?