Made in Spain Footwear, including TLB Mallorca, Cobbler Union, Yanko, Norman Vilalta, etc

[j ingevaldsson]

First wear today. First photo shows the color more accurately. The hatch grain is less pronounced than expected. The Senior sole is somewhat stiffer than the City sole, but that's the price you pay for increased durability. It's still much softer than your standard Dainite. I think Senior soles fit casual shoes like these very well, but for Oxfords I would definitely go City sole.
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My only gripe about the Senior is how small pebbles get stuck in the grooves, but this is a super minor thing.
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Construction wise, I believe Toni mentioned something about removing the shank on the Senior sole. I suppose the stiff leather waist acts as a shank (it doesn't actually bend when you walk). I can't say I noticed a difference from my other Artista with City soles on this point, which is a good thing.

The shank is there, it's needed for the strength of the waist, but they remove the build-up which creates the raised bevelling of the waist and further strengthens it a bit.

 

[MacGuffen]

The shank is there, it's needed for the strength of the waist, but they remove the build-up which creates the raised bevelling of the waist and further strengthens it a bit.

Thank you for the clarification. It may just have been a language thing. He wrote " We just take out the shank when we use Senior sole in order to keep well the union between the rubber and sole".

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Thank you for the clarification. It may just have been a language thing. He wrote " We just take out the shank when we use Senior sole in order to keep well the union between the rubber and sole".

Yeah he means the build-up, just language mishap.

 

[J.Ben]

Long time reader here....I have 2 pairs of Tlb’s , one oxford and one derby. Derby is half a size shorter and shallower than the Oxford and is still more spacious ....is it possible to have a different width/ size for Oxford and derby?

 

[apd90700]

Long time reader here....I have 2 pairs of Tlb’s , one oxford and one derby. Derby is half a size shorter and shallower than the Oxford and is still more spacious ....is it possible to have a different width/ size for Oxford and derby?

Conjecture here, but believe Derby lasts for TLB at least are ostensibly wider. Go to the customization screen and you can select the different lasts. It shows a top down picture to give an idea.

 

[J.Ben]

I’m talking about same last , Goya

 

[apd90700]

Got confirmation from Toni, that by request he can make a two-eye derby in whatever last/material. Hoping this becomes something they sell on the site. I really don't prefer three-eye derby styles compared with something sleeker like those below.

 

[apd90700]

I’m talking about same last , Goya

The structure of the throat being different between a derby and oxford should allow more wiggle room in the derby. Watched a video this morning where Kirby Allison was discussing just that -- he said something to the effect of derby being more casual shoes and as your foot swells the open throat allows for greater expansion. As to the veracity of the comment, uncertain, but seems plausible as to why you'd notice more play in a derby over an oxford. A loafer in Goya would also likely require a half size smaller than what you wear in oxford since you don't have the throat to hold your foot in.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Got confirmation from Toni, that by request he can make a two-eye derby in whatever last/material. Hoping this becomes something they sell on the site. I really don't prefer three-eye derby styles compared with something sleeker like those below.


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This seems like a very solid shoe for you based on how you plan to wear them and the rest of your wardrobe. Don’t go knocking 3 eyelet though - They definitely can get very sleek without looking French.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I really like TLB’s split toe on the Velazquez last, but I think the beveled waist is totally out of place for it (and maybe other derbies with a chunky-ish look).

 

[apd90700]

This seems like a very solid shoe for you based on how you plan to wear them and the rest of your wardrobe. Don’t go knocking 3 eyelet though - They definitely can get very sleek without looking French.

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Two-eye just reminds me of a wholecut .

 

[J.Ben]

The structure of the throat being different between a derby and oxford should allow more wiggle room in the derby. Watched a video this morning where Kirby Allison was discussing just that -- he said something to the effect of derby being more casual shoes and as your foot swells the open throat allows for greater expansion. As to the veracity of the comment, uncertain, but seems plausible as to why you'd notice more play in a derby over an oxford. A loafer in Goya would also likely require a half size smaller than what you wear in oxford since you don't have the throat to hold your foot in.

Found this article that backs up the idea. https://shoegazing.com/2019/09/08/in-depth-how-pattern-affect-fit/
Does it mean that I could try with a derby that is one width size smaller? For example from G to F? Or same width but Half a size shorter ?

 

[apd90700]

Email Toni. Tell him the issue, he'll ask for your foot measurements, then you can go based on his recommendation.

 

[apd90700]

Alright, any detractors? Picasso 110 -- Fully Brogue Faux Wing [Stitched] in Vegano Brown Calf [neither dark or medium]. Single City Sole.

Timeless elegance. Smart casual.

 

[Patrick1053]

Alright, any detractors? Picasso 110 -- Fully Brogue Faux Wing [Stitched] in Vegano Brown Calf [neither dark or medium]. Single City Sole.

Timeless elegance. Smart casual.

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I one these in Burgundy Museum calf. I like them a lot