Made in Spain Footwear, including TLB Mallorca, Cobbler Union, Yanko, Norman Vilalta, etc

[janoy89]

Another vote for the split toe. The wingtip would be lovely on the brown old england leather though

 

[apd90700]

Any formality issues with a Blucher? First pair of dark browns.

Also, the wingtip is a double city sole if that sways anyone.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Any formality issues with a Blucher? First pair of dark browns.

Yes - Not ideal for pairing with suits. if this pair is meant to be worn with suits I’d go another direction.

You were the guy who wanted a pretty slim fit from your suit right? If that’s the case I’d do the balmoral on Picasso with a leather sole. A split toe in grained leather will clash with most suits but especially so if you’re after a modern sleek look from your tailoring. Edit // Fabric will play into this as well. A flannel, tweed, etc would be better with a split toe. If you’re going worsted, sharkskin, etc definitely steer toward a more sleek oxford in a smooth leather.

 

[JohnMRobie]

@apd90700 it’s not a firm and fast rule but if you’re just starting it’ll keep you out of trouble and simplify things - Here are some examples so you can see what I mean. A couple from @Betelgeuse that work very well. Oxfords with suits

You can see the split toe in a smooth leather with flannel trousers and a sport coat

and then a couple from other people wearing grained split toes with chords/denim.

I have a pair of hatch grain split toes and the brown balmoral. I’ll try and snap some side by side pictures with a relatively slim fit pair of trousers later.

 

[Shetterd]

My first TLB pair: Artista loafers! Tony sent some extra insoles, which make these a great fit. Without, there is some extra room, but that means thicker socks work, which will make these great when it's a little colder, too.

 

[apd90700]

Yeah, was my concern going with the Blucher, and was like maybe the Wingtip could be ~more formal, albeit inherently informal from all the brogue-work. Definitely like Hatch Grain, but again less formal.

Thing is, I may be wearing dress trousers but no jacket, and often denim or chinos, but seldom full suits. Getting five or six pairs of most likely TLB in different styles in colors -- Derby, Oxford, Loafer, Monks, etc., so just trying for versatility with this first pass.

My first TLB pair: Artista loafers! Tony sent some extra insoles, which make these a great fit. Without, there is some extra room, but that means thicker socks work, which will make these great when it's a little colder, too.

Goya last 117? Did you size down half a size from usual? Lot of people mention wearing loafers down half a size.

 

[Shetterd]

Goya last 117? Did you size down half a size from usual? Lot of people mention wearing loafers down half a size.

Yes, that's the one. I did not size down. Spoke to Tony and he recommended my usual size, but sent some leather insoles along just in case, which have the exact shape of the midsole. Without the insoles but with thick socks, the fit is great. With thinner socks and insole, the fit is also excellent. So overall, I am very pleased.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Yeah, was my concern going with the Blucher, and was like maybe the Wingtip could be ~more formal, albeit inherently informal from all the brogue-work. Definitely like Hatch Grain, but again less formal.

Thing is, I may be wearing dress trousers but no jacket, and often denim or chinos, but seldom full suits. Getting five or six pairs of most likely TLB in different styles in colors -- Derby, Oxford, Loafer, Monks, etc., so just trying for versatility with this first pass.


Goya last 117? Did you size down half a size from usual? Lot of people mention wearing loafers down half a size.

If you don’t plan to wear them with a suit and more casually then I’d go split toe and not think twice. The only thing I’d consider is making sure they’ll work with your wardrobe. I dug and found an old pair with a 14” leg opening to demonstrate. Balmoral on Goya in dark brown vegano, split toe in burgundy hatch on a soft square and semi brogue in brown museum on a chiseled last. A pant leg that tapered requires a fairly sleek last and pattern to mesh up.

 

[apd90700]

My first TLB pair: Artista loafers! Tony sent some extra insoles, which make these a great fit. Without, there is some extra room, but that means thicker socks work, which will make these great when it's a little colder, too.

Let's get some pics of dem on does feet. Also considering a pair of the Goya 117 for my first Loafer.

 

[apd90700]

Hot or Not?

Thinking of picking these as a shoe to place between Dark Brown and Medium Brown. Old England Brown with Brown Suede, Balmoral Semi-Brogue Oxfords [Alan], JR Soles.

Presuming the Alans fit like the Olivers?

 

[JohnMRobie]

Personally if I wanted bimaterial and a balmoral I’d probably do a boot over an oxford. To be fair though that’s all personal taste and I would probably still not add it to my collection - I would do a field boot in the smooth + suede. Am I remembering that mentioned the pair you were contemplating earlier was your first pair of better shoes?

 

[apd90700]

Personally if I wanted bimaterial and a balmoral I’d probably do a boot over an oxford. To be fair though that’s all personal taste and I would probably still not add it to my collection - I would do a field boot in the smooth + suede. Am I remembering that mentioned the pair you were contemplating earlier was your first pair of better shoes?

The split toe, wingtip or balmoral in calf are my dark brown options right now.

The bimaterial is a plain oe brown, also going for $270 with those selections and I don’t have any plain browns in mind.

The dark brown should be versatile, since I have no other dark browns.

 

[JohnMRobie]

The split toe, wingtip or balmoral in calf are my dark brown options right now.

The bimaterial is a plain oe brown, also going for $270 with those selections and I don’t have any plain browns in mind.

If you’ve already got basics covered and know what you like then sure. It doesn’t seem like a first brown oxford to me though if that’s what gap it’s filling.

Speaking from experience - There’s something to be said for building a collection slowly and figuring out what you really want. Grabbing a shoe from a brand, getting a feel for whether you like their stuff, how the last fits you, how you’re going to wear it.

You mentioned mainly trousers or chinos and occasionally a jacket - that sounds like derby to me. The split toe you identified is great and versatile with that but would be tough to dress up with a suit or if you opt to stick with a narrow leg opening - it could potentially be tough if you go for the sleek look in most of your things.

another option if that’s the case that you want to go for a sleek look would be tracking down the 114 on Picasso in dark brown or going MTO (Not my pictures) for a slightly sleeker look that might flow with that aesthetic a little better and might be a little more versatile. Some might disagree but I think it’s also sleek enough to work with a suit in a pinch

From there once you’ve got fit nailed down and know you like TLB - you could go with an oxford in black, dark brown or burgundy could be good (that dark brown balmoral you posted initially would be a good place holder here) or you could go more casual with the split toe derby you posted.

fourth pair if you opted for split toe and oxford I’d add after doing the split toe and the oxford would be a boot - maybe a chukka in a dark brown suede or a loafer in polo or dark brown suede depending on your region.

 

[apd90700]

If you’ve already got basics covered and know what you like then sure. It doesn’t seem like a first brown oxford to me though if that’s what gap it’s filling.

Speaking from experience - There’s something to be said for building a collection slowly and figuring out what you really want. Grabbing a shoe from a brand, getting a feel for whether you like their stuff, how the last fits you, how you’re going to wear it.

You mentioned mainly trousers or chinos and occasionally a jacket - that sounds like derby to me. The split toe you identified is great and versatile with that but would be tough to dress up with a suit or if you opt to stick with a narrow leg opening - it could potentially be tough if you go for the sleek look in most of your things.

another option if that’s the case that you want to go for a sleek look would be tracking down the 114 on Picasso in dark brown or going MTO (Not my pictures) for a slightly sleeker look that might flow with that aesthetic a little better and might be a little more versatile. Some might disagree but I think it’s also sleek enough to work with a suit in a pinch View attachment 1601367 View attachment 1601368

From there once you’ve got fit nailed down and know you like TLB - you could go with an oxford in black, dark brown or burgundy could be good (that dark brown balmoral you posted initially would be a good place holder here) or you could go more casual with the split toe derby you posted.

fourth pair if you opted for split toe and oxford I’d add after doing the split toe and the oxford would be a boot - maybe a chukka in a dark brown suede or a loafer in polo or dark brown suede depending on your region.

All good suggestions and options. Looking to add such a Loafer, Goya 117 maybe, narrow pant hem may lend more toward the loafer look. For the boot chukka or even something in the more military style with commando sole if we get snow.

Yeah, I’m pretty sold on TLB for value. As for last fitting that was also a concern, so was looking at the dark brown balmoral for versatility along with being Picasso to test the waters and ensure that the last fits for other possible options down the road. The Velazquez while lit doesn’t share last with many other options. Then the wingtip has the shared last, is sleek, is hatch dark brown, so was like maybe could make it work?

I agree with the waiting game to pick exact options, but also need shoes to rotate or risk wearing the early pairs out.

Any light brown opinions? Austerity Brogue Picasso?

 

[JohnMRobie]

All good suggestions and options. Looking to add such a Loafer, Goya 117 maybe, narrow pant hem may lend more toward the loafer look. For the boot chukka or even something in the more military style with commando sole if we get snow.

Yeah, I’m pretty sold on TLB for value. As for last fitting that was also a concern, so was looking at the dark brown balmoral for versatility along with being Picasso to test the waters and ensure that the last fits for other possible options down the road. The Velazquez while lit doesn’t share last with many other options. Then the wingtip has the shared last, is sleek, is hatch dark brown, so was like maybe could make it work?

I agree with the waiting game to pick exact options, but also need shoes to rotate or risk wearing the early pairs out.

Any light brown opinions? Austerity Brogue Picasso?

TLB if the last fits you is nice because only the toe shape changes. Rest of the fit stays similar or same which is handy.

I avoid light brown and tans - particularly oxfords. Hard to pair well because it clashes. I suppose if you had really light grey but even then I’d rather do black or dark brown or even burgundy/oxblood.