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TLB Mallorca - Made in Spain Footwear

Shetterd

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Was their a MTO charge for those changes?
It's not a change. The pattern and sizing are RTW Artista. He is just very kindly sending some additional insoles to make sure I can get a good fit in case it's a little too big.
 

taxgenius

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It's not a change. The pattern and sizing are RTW Artista. He is just very kindly sending some additional insoles to make sure I can get a good fit in case it's a little too big.
I was referring to changing lasts, such as perhaps the 109 Artista on the Goya last.
 

Jmr928

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Yeah, It is definitely TLB shoes. They even call it the "P" last on their website. Definitely, just a coincidence that the Picasso last got rebranded as the P last. It people like ASScot and Kirby Allison, that bug me for charging large markups, just to maintain this fake prestige.
Kirby's markup on polish is less offensive to me than this - Saphir is basically a few bucks more or less expensive than he charges pretty much everywhere. Some places you get hit with it on shipping, some places you get hit with it on the cost but overall we are talking +/- about 10-15%.
 

Jmr928

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Their single MTO markup seems super reasonable and the guys on here talk about the speed. Not bad compared to lots of makers and a ton of bang for the buck.

But - in this example if it were my money and I were in @taxgenius shoes (heh) I think I'd have a tough time debating say the Yeossal Gilstead over the Artista 109 MTO on Goya for the extra call it $125 or so assuming a good fit from both brands. A tough debate. Godspeed, Sir. If it were the standard RTW pricing a guy would have even more to have to think about.

Living in the golden age of an absolute ton of bang for your buck across a bunch of different brands and price points.
 

apd90700

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Ok fellas I really need some help please, this is going to be a bit of a longer post so please bear with me as I could really use your insights and I wouldn't know who else to ask other than my fellow TLB enthusiats.

Ok, so I bought my 1st TLB's a few months ago, the 589 Nolan in dark brown suede on the Bryan last (Longwing Brogue). The shoe fits very well as if made for my foot and I am quite happy with it. Instep, toebox, heels everything fits very well, buttery smooth leather inside and out - if not a bit more spacey in the midsection than what I am usually used too. Maybe an E width instead of the standard F width might have been enough, anyhow I count my blessings since its nearly impossible for me to find a pair of shoes that fit right out of the box and which never needed breaking in or extended wear to feel comfotable. Toni Llobera also made them with real leather heel stiffeners for me so they'd fit better, and they fit much nicer. It’s a good shoe to wear with my tweeds and flannels during colder months and definitely a bit more casual, though it can surely still be worn up with a heather grey peak lapel suit I use during that time of the year.

Anyhow, I have been thinking for quite a while to get another, 2nd pair of suedes, this time in a lighter color like snuff, tobacco or polo suede, but more on the elegant side, specifically a captoe balmoral/oxford. I just purchased these Crockett & Jones Westminster (a discontinued model on the wider 317 C&J last) from the Ben Silver Collection for 730$ in my size 12 US. In principal they fit, but they're definitely quite snug on the heel and elsewhere though they might most likely expand in the future if worn and properly broken in. However, optically my feet look a bit squeezy or sausagey in them if you understand my meaning, the toebox width and the midsection width are a bit off in terms of an overall harmonious, more "almondy" symetry, which I prefer and which makes this impression of trying to stuff a too bulky foot into too sleek of a shoe in this case. Anyhow, this shouldn't happen in a shoe at this price point and I am of a mind to return them. However, this model is exactly what I was hoping to get as that elegant 2nd suede pair that could also be dressed up or down. So I have been thinking of why not try TLB a second time, considering how much I love the Nolan Longwing Derby, but I am unsure as to which last to choose and or what options would get me this C&J captoe look in a probably better fitting and a tad cheaper package in comparison.

So the only TLB model that would be more or less the same is the 555 Newman on the Alan last from TLB’s main collection from what I can tell. However, I don't like squared toes and generally prefer a more almondy/rounder silhouette like the Aberdeen last from Alden. So far the Bryan last and or the Goya from the Artista line seem to be the best choices in this regard, but I am unsure as to the Goya last since I have never owned nor tried a Goya Lasted shoe before. However, there is no captoe oxford model like the 555 Newman on the Goya last/Artista line available (yet!) and I ask myself if that would not be the more elegant, Crockett & Jones look alike option in the end. So here my questions:

1) In order to recreate this elegant, English suede C&J captoe balmoral/oxford look via TLB, what would you do? Go with a customized 555 Newman on the Bryan last for optimum fit (since I already know this fit) in Polo Brown Suede (as is my thought so far for a lighter color suede) or would you go with an Artista line model? Or with another last from the main collection like the Oliver or Alan?

2) If Artista, would it be possible to get the 555 Newman as an Artista line model on the Goya last if I asked nicely? As far as I know main line and Artista line lasts are not interchangeable? I have written numerous times with Toni Llobera before and he was very nice to talk with, maybe he would allow it? A second option would be to customize an adelaide Artista 121 model in suede with medaillion etc. on the Goya last, what do you guys think of that option?

3) Are details such as the riveted/serrated tongue (as on the C&J model) possible with customized TLB shoes if requested?
Ask Tony to use the Bryan last for whatever you're doing, but inquire if he'll finish the shoes with the same level of detail as goes into the Artista line. If you're already looking at a Mainline style, shouldn't be an issue to have it done on Bryan. If it's a custom style, which a captoe balmoral oxford may be, then just ask.
 

JFK_88

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Ask Tony to use the Bryan last for whatever you're doing, but inquire if he'll finish the shoes with the same level of detail as goes into the Artista line. If you're already looking at a Mainline style, shouldn't be an issue to have it done on Bryan. If it's a custom style, which a captoe balmoral oxford may be, then just ask.
Thanks a lot for the input so far. I sent the C&J's back to Charleston today as I decided I would not keep them and was thinking about your suggestions on how to proceed with TLB. I will write Toni and inquire about whether he can make something like that for me, a Newman with Artista level finishing etc. I was also trying to think where my inspiration for this "project" came from and I remembered my absolute grail shoes and realized what I was hoping to achieve was the closest look to this shoe in a lighter suede color. It's a shoe add from the 1940s or 1950s and just makes my jaw drop on how perfect they are. The last is sort in between Bryan and Goya? What do you guys think? Or something like an F last from Vass?
 

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j ingevaldsson

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Thanks a lot for the input so far. I sent the C&J's back to Charleston today as I decided I would not keep them and was thinking about your suggestions on how to proceed with TLB. I will write Toni and inquire about whether he can make something like that for me, a Newman with Artista level finishing etc. I was also trying to think where my inspiration for this "project" came from and I remembered my absolute grail shoes and realized what I was hoping to achieve was the closest look to this shoe in a lighter suede color. It's a shoe add from the 1940s or 1950s and just makes my jaw drop on how perfect they are. The last is sort in between Bryan and Goya? What do you guys think? Or something like an F last from Vass?
Got to love seeing that the "no middlemen" marketing was a thing already back in the 40's :D
 

Jmr928

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It may just be the angle of that picture but on the right shoe does that toe look more almond than round to anyone else?
 

JFK_88

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It may just be the angle of that picture but on the right shoe does that toe look more almond than round to anyone else?
To me it looks as "almondy" as it can get without having too much roundness. Most similiar to Alden's aberdeen last it seems. That's the thing with the Bryan last for me, it fits very well, but its a tad too chiseley round on the toebox, at least from what I can tell on my Nolan's in dark brown suede. I sort of have this allergy against any and all shoes that seem too pointy to me, which is probably why I love this vintage stuff so much. I could so far not yet find any captoe oxford/balmoral pictures from TLB made on the Bryan last, so can't yet form a definitive view on whether I would like the end result.
 

JFK_88

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Got to love seeing that the "no middlemen" marketing was a thing already back in the 40's :D
So true, so true! Actually this Moore bespoke shoes still exists in NYC, but their shoes are a couple thousand...
 

Jmr928

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To me it looks as "almondy" as it can get without having too much roundness. Most similiar to Alden's aberdeen last it seems. That's the thing with the Bryan last for me, it fits very well, but its a tad too chiseley round on the toebox, at least from what I can tell on my Nolan's in dark brown suede. I sort of have this allergy against any and all shoes that seem too pointy to me, which is probably why I love this vintage stuff so much. I could so far not yet find any captoe oxford/balmoral pictures from TLB made on the Bryan last, so can't yet form a definitive view on whether I would like the end result.
I definitely wouldn’t describe Goya as particularly pointy. The only thing that comes to mind if you have that exact toe shape in mind is it may be a little more symmetrical than you’re thinking. I also have no idea on their capabilities to customize the tongue to have the edging you want but that’s why you asked Toni. I’m sure they can come up with a lighter suede cap toe semi brogue for you.
 

unprocessed

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It is hard to really see the last with just side photos. Is this more of a square last than Picasso?
 

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