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TLB Mallorca - Made in Spain Footwear

unprocessed

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Is neutral pate de lux and mirror gloss really an issue long term? I always through the pigments in the colored saphir waxes were very light and really didnt add much color to the shoes. Would have never though neutral waxes could actually harm the shoes.
 

Jmr928

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Is neutral pate de lux and mirror gloss really an issue long term? I always through the pigments in the colored saphir waxes were very light and really didnt add much color to the shoes. Would have never though neutral waxes could actually harm the shoes.
Like everything else on this forum - it depends. I wouldn’t use it on crust - particularly one I wanted to keep the burnish or patina on - which is typically where I see guys trying to use it because they don’t want to think about how to match the darker parts of the toe to the rest of the toe. On another kind of shoe like the vegano burgundy above it probably wouldn’t “harm” anything but it could pull color out and make it look worse than otherwise.
 

taxgenius

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Is neutral pate de lux and mirror gloss really an issue long term? I always through the pigments in the colored saphir waxes were very light and really didnt add much color to the shoes. Would have never though neutral waxes could actually harm the shoes.
Off topic, but any idea why Mirror Gloss is so expensive.
 

Jmr928

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Off topic, but any idea why Mirror Gloss is so expensive.
Probably a combination of idiots like us being willing to pay it, the ingredients and the brand.

It’s not much more than the regular pate de luxe though and it lasts a long time so I just usually wait for a sale and stock up for the year unless I need something for a one off and then I just over pay at the local store that stocks it.

They do have a less expensive product called admiral gloss. Pure polish has high shine paste and boot black has their high shine coat and their whole bucket of products too if you want an alternative. Pure polish might be the least expensive?

On the topic of unnecessary shoe care items though the most absurd one I want for no reason at all and will (probably) never buy is the little baby unicorn brush from bootblack. $200 for this little 4”x2” guy.
B853CC16-7C26-4E96-B031-6C520F977A66.jpeg
 

JFK_88

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Ok fellas I really need some help please, this is going to be a bit of a longer post so please bear with me as I could really use your insights and I wouldn't know who else to ask other than my fellow TLB enthusiats.

Ok, so I bought my 1st TLB's a few months ago, the 589 Nolan in dark brown suede on the Bryan last (Longwing Brogue). The shoe fits very well as if made for my foot and I am quite happy with it. Instep, toebox, heels everything fits very well, buttery smooth leather inside and out - if not a bit more spacey in the midsection than what I am usually used too. Maybe an E width instead of the standard F width might have been enough, anyhow I count my blessings since its nearly impossible for me to find a pair of shoes that fit right out of the box and which never needed breaking in or extended wear to feel comfotable. Toni Llobera also made them with real leather heel stiffeners for me so they'd fit better, and they fit much nicer. It’s a good shoe to wear with my tweeds and flannels during colder months and definitely a bit more casual, though it can surely still be worn up with a heather grey peak lapel suit I use during that time of the year.

Anyhow, I have been thinking for quite a while to get another, 2nd pair of suedes, this time in a lighter color like snuff, tobacco or polo suede, but more on the elegant side, specifically a captoe balmoral/oxford. I just purchased these Crockett & Jones Westminster (a discontinued model on the wider 317 C&J last) from the Ben Silver Collection for 730$ in my size 12 US. In principal they fit, but they're definitely quite snug on the heel and elsewhere though they might most likely expand in the future if worn and properly broken in. However, optically my feet look a bit squeezy or sausagey in them if you understand my meaning, the toebox width and the midsection width are a bit off in terms of an overall harmonious, more "almondy" symetry, which I prefer and which makes this impression of trying to stuff a too bulky foot into too sleek of a shoe in this case. Anyhow, this shouldn't happen in a shoe at this price point and I am of a mind to return them. However, this model is exactly what I was hoping to get as that elegant 2nd suede pair that could also be dressed up or down. So I have been thinking of why not try TLB a second time, considering how much I love the Nolan Longwing Derby, but I am unsure as to which last to choose and or what options would get me this C&J captoe look in a probably better fitting and a tad cheaper package in comparison.

So the only TLB model that would be more or less the same is the 555 Newman on the Alan last from TLB’s main collection from what I can tell. However, I don't like squared toes and generally prefer a more almondy/rounder silhouette like the Aberdeen last from Alden. So far the Bryan last and or the Goya from the Artista line seem to be the best choices in this regard, but I am unsure as to the Goya last since I have never owned nor tried a Goya Lasted shoe before. However, there is no captoe oxford model like the 555 Newman on the Goya last/Artista line available (yet!) and I ask myself if that would not be the more elegant, Crockett & Jones look alike option in the end. So here my questions:

1) In order to recreate this elegant, English suede C&J captoe balmoral/oxford look via TLB, what would you do? Go with a customized 555 Newman on the Bryan last for optimum fit (since I already know this fit) in Polo Brown Suede (as is my thought so far for a lighter color suede) or would you go with an Artista line model? Or with another last from the main collection like the Oliver or Alan?

2) If Artista, would it be possible to get the 555 Newman as an Artista line model on the Goya last if I asked nicely? As far as I know main line and Artista line lasts are not interchangeable? I have written numerous times with Toni Llobera before and he was very nice to talk with, maybe he would allow it? A second option would be to customize an adelaide Artista 121 model in suede with medaillion etc. on the Goya last, what do you guys think of that option?

3) Are details such as the riveted/serrated tongue (as on the C&J model) possible with customized TLB shoes if requested?
 

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j ingevaldsson

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Is that the Museum Calf Burdeos 107s? Or Vegano?
Vegano.

Off topic, but any idea why Mirror Gloss is so expensive.
Put it like this, it is more concentrated with less water and comes in a larger tin which contains 50% more than Pate de Lux, so logic that it is pricier. If it should cost as much as it does? Well, since people seem to buy it I guess the answer is yes. Personally I don't like it these hard concentrated type of waxes, I go with Pate de Lux or similar regular waxes it works better for how I work with shining shoes.
 

Boggis

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Ok fellas I really need some help please...
For me, fit is everything. If the C&J pair you have aren't that comfortable I'd certainly look elsewhere, and if you find TLB comfortable it's a good place to start.
With regard to how Goya fits relative to the mainline lasts, I've read on this thread they're fairly similar but Toni is apparently very good at sizing advice so I'm sure he could help.

I think the 121 Artista Adelaide looks very similar to the C&J model you have, so could be a good shout. I guess the 110 and 111 models are contenders too.

Re: the tongue detailing, I think this is called "gimping", I've heard of Toni accommodating special requests before, and as special requests go this is pretty minor, so there's a good chance he could accommodate.
 

Patrick1053

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Ok fellas I really need some help please, this is going to be a bit of a longer post so please bear with me as I could really use your insights and I wouldn't know who else to ask other than my fellow TLB enthusiats.

Ok, so I bought my 1st TLB's a few months ago, the 589 Nolan in dark brown suede on the Bryan last (Longwing Brogue). The shoe fits very well as if made for my foot and I am quite happy with it. Instep, toebox, heels everything fits very well, buttery smooth leather inside and out - if not a bit more spacey in the midsection than what I am usually used too. Maybe an E width instead of the standard F width might have been enough, anyhow I count my blessings since its nearly impossible for me to find a pair of shoes that fit right out of the box and which never needed breaking in or extended wear to feel comfotable. Toni Llobera also made them with real leather heel stiffeners for me so they'd fit better, and they fit much nicer. It’s a good shoe to wear with my tweeds and flannels during colder months and definitely a bit more casual, though it can surely still be worn up with a heather grey peak lapel suit I use during that time of the year.

Anyhow, I have been thinking for quite a while to get another, 2nd pair of suedes, this time in a lighter color like snuff, tobacco or polo suede, but more on the elegant side, specifically a captoe balmoral/oxford. I just purchased these Crockett & Jones Westminster (a discontinued model on the wider 317 C&J last) from the Ben Silver Collection for 730$ in my size 12 US. In principal they fit, but they're definitely quite snug on the heel and elsewhere though they might most likely expand in the future if worn and properly broken in. However, optically my feet look a bit squeezy or sausagey in them if you understand my meaning, the toebox width and the midsection width are a bit off in terms of an overall harmonious, more "almondy" symetry, which I prefer and which makes this impression of trying to stuff a too bulky foot into too sleek of a shoe in this case. Anyhow, this shouldn't happen in a shoe at this price point and I am of a mind to return them. However, this model is exactly what I was hoping to get as that elegant 2nd suede pair that could also be dressed up or down. So I have been thinking of why not try TLB a second time, considering how much I love the Nolan Longwing Derby, but I am unsure as to which last to choose and or what options would get me this C&J captoe look in a probably better fitting and a tad cheaper package in comparison.

So the only TLB model that would be more or less the same is the 555 Newman on the Alan last from TLB’s main collection from what I can tell. However, I don't like squared toes and generally prefer a more almondy/rounder silhouette like the Aberdeen last from Alden. So far the Bryan last and or the Goya from the Artista line seem to be the best choices in this regard, but I am unsure as to the Goya last since I have never owned nor tried a Goya Lasted shoe before. However, there is no captoe oxford model like the 555 Newman on the Goya last/Artista line available (yet!) and I ask myself if that would not be the more elegant, Crockett & Jones look alike option in the end. So here my questions:

1) In order to recreate this elegant, English suede C&J captoe balmoral/oxford look via TLB, what would you do? Go with a customized 555 Newman on the Bryan last for optimum fit (since I already know this fit) in Polo Brown Suede (as is my thought so far for a lighter color suede) or would you go with an Artista line model? Or with another last from the main collection like the Oliver or Alan?

2) If Artista, would it be possible to get the 555 Newman as an Artista line model on the Goya last if I asked nicely? As far as I know main line and Artista line lasts are not interchangeable? I have written numerous times with Toni Llobera before and he was very nice to talk with, maybe he would allow it? A second option would be to customize an adelaide Artista 121 model in suede with medaillion etc. on the Goya last, what do you guys think of that option?

3) Are details such as the riveted/serrated tongue (as on the C&J model) possible with customized TLB shoes if requested?
I'm not gonna pretend I read every word of that, but I think I got the gist. Toni will take care of you if you email him. He has made mainline models with Artista construction on the Alan last for me. He has made main line models on the Goya last for me. He made me a pair with a pattern that they did not even have. I sent him a picture of the shoe pattern I wanted and he created it. Basically, If you see a model you like on their website, then he can make it happen for you.
 

Shetterd

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I'm not gonna pretend I read every word of that, but I think I got the gist. Toni will take care of you if you email him. He has made mainline models with Artista construction on the Alan last for me. He has made main line models on the Goya last for me. He made me a pair with a pattern that they did not even have. I sent him a picture of the shoe pattern I wanted and he created it. Basically, If you see a model you like on their website, then he can make it happen for you.
Toni seems super helpful. He asked me how my existing shoes fit before he recommended a size, and is sending out some additional leather insoles with the right shape for the Goya last just in case the fit is ever so slightly off. Really excited for them to ship next week. Incredible service honestly.
 

Jmr928

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I have no knowledge to confirm this - But potentially interesting TLB adjacent news. Is it just me or do the Ascot RTW shoes look an awful lot like a rebranded TLB Artista for about twice the price?
Screen Shot 2021-04-14 at 9.56.59 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-04-14 at 9.57.42 AM.png
 

Patrick1053

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I have no knowledge to confirm this - But potentially interesting TLB adjacent news. Is it just me or do the Ascot RTW shoes look an awful lot like a rebranded TLB Artista for about twice the price?
View attachment 1592946
View attachment 1592947
Dude, your right! ASScot does the same thing with Vass shoes, except they at least tell you it is from Vass, and then mark it up $600 dollars. They are crooks, who take advantage of people's ignorance. TLB and Vass may be content selling to them, because they are smaller companies that are happy for the buisness.

If this ain't the Picasso last, then I don't know what is.

ASSCOT.JPG
 

Jmr928

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Beyond the last - Check the sole, the nailing on the heel and the size stamp.
Screen Shot 2021-04-14 at 10.15.42 AM.png

I guess if anyone was worried about whether TLB Artista was worth it's value apparently someone think's it's worth like $825.
 

Patrick1053

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Beyond the last - Check the sole, the nailing on the heel and the size stamp.
View attachment 1592994
I guess if anyone was worried about whether TLB Artista was worth it's value apparently someone think's it's worth like $825.
Yeah, It is definitely TLB shoes. They even call it the "P" last on their website. Definitely, just a coincidence that the Picasso last got rebranded as the P last. It people like ASScot and Kirby Allison, that bug me for charging large markups, just to maintain this fake prestige.
 

taxgenius

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Toni seems super helpful. He asked me how my existing shoes fit before he recommended a size, and is sending out some additional leather insoles with the right shape for the Goya last just in case the fit is ever so slightly off. Really excited for them to ship next week. Incredible service honestly.
Was their a MTO charge for those changes?
 

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